Turning Stance Car to Track...Thing

[DocWalt]

I'd personally aim for that -2 to -2.5 on the front and something more like -1.5 to -2 in the back, about -.5 lower in the rear. That seems to be the "normal" idea for these cars to help them put power down and still turn properly.

I lowered my car ~1" and was able to adjust my rear camber to -1.9 with lower control arms and I still set the rear toe to about 0 with no toe arms.

[Jyn]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I'd personally aim for that -2 to -2.5 on the front and something more like -1.5 to -2 in the back, about -.5 lower in the rear. That seems to be the "normal" idea for these cars to help them put power down and still turn properly.

I lowered my car ~1" and was able to adjust my rear camber to -1.9 with lower control arms and I still set the rear toe to about 0 with no toe arms.

I agree with the front and that's what I'll be aiming for. What affect does the rear camber have on handling dynamics?

[Icecreamtruk]

In theory, it will give you more grip on acceleration while cornering. More grip means less oversteer and more understeer (less weight on front tires). So up to the point where the tires have full contact while cornering, it will increase understeer and reduce oversteer while on power while turning. It could also reduce straight line grip and brake (altho minimal on brake, since front tires do the heavy braking).

In reality, I dont know, never had the chance to race a car with different camber setups on the rear.

[strat61caster]

I've never seen anyone serious about performance post about running more than -2.5 degrees in the rear on this car. Because it's double wishbone it gains camber as it compresses (which adds grip and is what happens during cornering as weight transfers) meaning it does not need as much static camber as the front which is macpherson strut which means the tire does not get more camber under compression.

[Jyn]

Hopefully image shows:

Ended up at
-2.0 FL -2.0 FR

-2.6 DL -2.6 DR

all without aftermarket rear LCA or crash bolts on the front!! But there's some small tabs sticking out near the inside of the fender well... they look like white plastic clips that maybe hold the fender liner?? Does anyone know what I'm talking about? They are dangerously close to my airbag and have me kind of worried. There's about a 1/4" gap between them and the bag right now, but I'm concerned they may rub when cornering at speed with the wheels turned.

[DocWalt]

Ah, your front struts must be slotted then, that makes it a lot easier to get negative camber I'm a bit curious how they got your negative camber matched so well side to side, it seems like most of the 86s are built a bit sloppy and have mismatched camber side to side. Mine was 0.7 degrees different from the factory, lol. Maybe yours is just a factory freak and has parts built by the best robots, haha.

I can't really speak for the bags, but I'd like to see a picture of what you're talking about. I'm assuming you're talking about the white plastic clips up in the strut tower, but I want to make sure.

[strat61caster]

@DocWalt I think I've heard that the later cars came out more even on the rear camber left to right. Fronts are always bang on equal unless adjustable elements are added.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

@DocWalt I think I've heard that the later cars came out more even on the rear camber left to right. Fronts are always bang on equal unless adjustable elements are added.

My fronts weren't even either though. But I hadn't even checked the alignment from the factory until I put the coilovers on 2 years later, hehe

I'm not surprised that the later cars were built a bit better.

[Jyn]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Ah, your front struts must be slotted then, that makes it a lot easier to get negative camber I'm a bit curious how they got your negative camber matched so well side to side, it seems like most of the 86s are built a bit sloppy and have mismatched camber side to side. Mine was 0.7 degrees different from the factory, lol. Maybe yours is just a factory freak and has parts built by the best robots, haha.

I can't really speak for the bags, but I'd like to see a picture of what you're talking about. I'm assuming you're talking about the white plastic clips up in the strut tower, but I want to make sure.

The guy that did the alignment is the shop owner and does track alignments for much better cars. I brought it to him, despite almost double the price, because of it. Also, the bags have camber plates lol.

I didn't take a picture because it was so difficult to see in there, but yes, it is white plastic clips from the strut tower. What are those for?

[DocWalt]

Even with camber plates I could barely touch -2.0 on my coilovers, I had to add the camber bolts lol.

The plastic clips hold some brackets in place and IIRC those brackets hold fuel lines and some harnesses in place. You may be able to find an alternative clip that protrudes less.

[Jyn]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Even with camber plates I could barely touch -2.0 on my coilovers, I had to add the camber bolts lol.

The plastic clips hold some brackets in place and IIRC those brackets hold fuel lines and some harnesses in place. You may be able to find an alternative clip that protrudes less.

Interesting, I'll take a look at the plates today, but I'm pretty sure they still have some room to add some more camber.

And thanks for the heads up on the clips. I would definitely feel more at ease with a little more clearance between the bag and clip. I wouldn't care if it was a coiled spring, but potentially rubbing against the bag has me worried.

[derek1ee]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Even with camber plates I could barely touch -2.0 on my coilovers, I had to add the camber bolts lol.

The plastic clips hold some brackets in place and IIRC those brackets hold fuel lines and some harnesses in place. You may be able to find an alternative clip that protrudes less.

Maybe make sure that camber plates are installed on the correct side? I've seen when it's installed on the wrong side, neg camber is very small.

[Jyn]

Just finished my 2nd weekend at Texas World Speedway, this time with a different group (The Driver's Edge). Overall impressions:

- tried to learn to heel-toe downshift. Starting getting a little more consistent with it towards the middle of the 2nd day, but my instructor for the 2nd day (had different ones each day) said to focus on learning to brake with consistent pedal pressure first and worry about being in the correct gear later.

- was getting some lockout issues, especially with the 3rd to 4th gear upshift. On one upshift, I thought I was locked out of 4th, so released the clutch. Turns out I was in 2nd and over-revved the engine to 9K RPM......... definitely a code brown for me and I'm glad there hasn't been any noticeable effects yet. Anything I should check just to be sure??
Didn't get too many pictures or videos since I was more focused on driving that weekend, but here's a few if Facebook decides to cooperate.





This weekend I am going to MSR-Houston for the first time. I'll be changing out the transmission and diff fluid today to Motul 300 75w90 so hopefully I don't get that gear lockout issue again. Will post back next week with results!

[Jyn]

Been a few years since I updated this. Long story short, I've been running the car through various HPDE events and just beginning time trials with NASA and track battle/time attack with Gridlife. So, that being said, it's time to move from a "do it all" car to a "focused purpose" car. Expect more annoying questions from me on this thread.

With that being said, here's some final looks at the car as it sits currently. Bye bye!