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Old 02-27-2019, 07:24 PM   #15
NoHaveMSG
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Originally Posted by Decep View Post
Definitely sounds plausible. Is this how most boxer engines are assembled, with friggin sealant instead of a traditional gasket? What benefit is there to sealant over gasket?
This is common on a lot of engines. Not just boxers. The reason I was told when talking with a Yamaha district service rep is they don't have to account for gasket thickness in their tolerances. I'm sure there are more seasons then that. Another issue with the FA20 is the screen in the pickup tube is in the top of it, trapping everything inside the tube.

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Old 02-27-2019, 08:54 PM   #16
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Definitely sounds plausible. Is this how most boxer engines are assembled, with friggin sealant instead of a traditional gasket? What benefit is there to sealant over gasket?
Both worked for me for years (cept on head gaskets) -


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Old 02-27-2019, 09:44 PM   #17
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From what I've read from the JO2 TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS .pdf the valve cover gasket gets replaced, not the head gasket.

So, if they're scraping any sealant, it's from there.

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Old 02-27-2019, 10:04 PM   #18
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Also hilarious to me that dealers would give people a hard time about engine knocking days after the dealer themselves took the engine apart, replaced components, and reassembled it lol.
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Old 02-27-2019, 10:17 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG View Post
It may be worthless but it is something. I would say they failed. This thread makes me not want to do the recall.

If the manufacturer has failed or is unable to remedy this safety recall for your vehicle in a timely manner,
please contact the NHTSA Vehicle Safety Hotline at: 1-888-327-4236 or TTY: 1-800-424-9153 or file an online complaint with NHTSA.

THIS---EVERYONE WHO HAS HAD A FAILURE NEEDS TO FILE A COMPLAINT WITH NHTSA!!
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Old 02-27-2019, 10:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by msaikhan View Post
Vehicle Mileage:120k
Vehicle Make: frs
Mileage After Recall Performed: under 100,
returned to dealer after J02 recall for oil leak, replaced engine
gasket, rod knock next morning after picking it up.

Symptom(s): rod knock on cold start and when slowing down in gear
Failure:rod bearings
State:va
Dealership Offering Repair: waiting for a call from GM to set something.


I took it to a shop who knows what they are doing to get it diagnosed. The tech said it probably came from the Toyota dealer tech not disconnecting the fuel and crank it dry to lubricate the engine, before firing it up.

Or simply hold the throttle to the floor while cranking and it cuts the fuel for you. No need to disconnect fuel lines.
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Old 02-27-2019, 11:12 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Decep View Post
Also hilarious to me that dealers would give people a hard time about engine knocking days after the dealer themselves took the engine apart, replaced components, and reassembled it lol.
Yeah this is crazy most of these have only a few hundred miles after leaving the dealership and they just throw their hands up
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Old 02-27-2019, 11:48 PM   #22
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Vehicle Mileage: 94k
Vehicle Make: brz
Mileage After Recall Performed: 400 miles
Symptom(s): knocking and fast ticks. Car struggles to start up. Check and alip light on p0016.
Failure:tbd
State:ct
Dealership Offering repair: tbd
https://m.facebook.com/groups/334152...=group_comment
Also had my headgaskets replaced while there. I want to understand after pulling motor apart the tech drove a total of 2 miles and though everything would be okay. Is it sufficient to drive 2 miles after doing major motor work to thjnk everything is okay?
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Old 02-28-2019, 12:45 AM   #23
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Oil filter is not replaced during campaign.

I would recommend everyone purchase an OEM filter and have it installed during repair to eliminate that as something the dealer can blame any failures on.

Would be cheap insurance.
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Old 02-28-2019, 12:51 AM   #24
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20A Fuel Pump fuse in Under Hood Junction block would be safer than WOT Fuel-Cut. Nice fat floormat makes that only 95% throttle and now you're racing a motor that you were trying to build oil pressure in.
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:20 AM   #25
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20A Fuel Pump fuse in Under Hood Junction block would be safer than WOT Fuel-Cut. Nice fat floormat makes that only 95% throttle and now you're racing a motor that you were trying to build oil pressure in.
what you mean by that? Throttle angle needs to be 90 to fuel cut during crank and that s achieved just by flooring the pedal like ermax said
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:21 AM   #26
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20A Fuel Pump fuse in Under Hood Junction block would be safer than WOT Fuel-Cut. Nice fat floormat makes that only 95% throttle and now you're racing a motor that you were trying to build oil pressure in.
It's set to 40% fuel at 80% pedal down to 0% at 90%. Anything over 80% and the engine would not likely fire
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:34 AM   #27
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It's set to 40% fuel at 80% pedal down to 0% at 90%. Anything over 80% and the engine would not likely fire
if i m not wrong the table is referenced by throttle angle () so it partly depends also on the DBW tables
ergo, it s not perfectly 80%/90% of accelerator pedal, but likely more 100% of accelerator to total fuel cut
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Old 02-28-2019, 11:25 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Magoo View Post
From what I've read from the JO2 TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS .pdf the valve cover gasket gets replaced, not the head gasket.

So, if they're scraping any sealant, it's from there.

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The sealant is not from the valve cover gaskets, its form the front cover.
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