Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by YamahaR86

2013 FR-S
Mods I have are:
Wheels 17x8 +35
Tires 225/45/17
2017+ OEM CF Wing
Lip Kit
Catback Exhaust

SCCA autox rules and some basic mods in the classes starting from the least modified to the most modified:
Street (DS): stock plus a few modifications like dampers and catback exhaust, 200TW tires on OE sized wheels
Street Touring (STX): wheels (your 17x8's puts you here), 200TW Tires, coilovers, tune
Street Preapred (CSP): DOT-R-comps (Hoosiers), limited aero, unlimited wheel and tire size, most non-FI engine bolt-ons
Street Modified (SM): DOT-R-comps (Hoosiers), less limited aero, engine swaps, forced induction, any suspension that attaches to the original suspension attachment points

Alternatively: Solo Spec Coupe: Spec class with spec mods and a spec tire, first year was last year, pretty successful.

The aero bumps you straight to BSP, but I doubt it's a significant performance benefit and you could probably run in STX if your competitors are fine with it. If you don't want to step on anyone's toes and just want to have fun you can put yourself in SM and just watch DS/STX for target times if you want to build your car to the rules.

specific autox threads:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114202
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25779
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111873
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121229

[teajae]

Hi, i currently compete in a local hillclimb/tarmac rally events and was wondering if there was any changes i should make to the car to suit this better vs track or autox.

The road surface that we compete on is quite bumpy and rough sometimes and is mixed between concrete/asphalt

Mods:
Whiteline Front Camber Bolts
Stock OEM Rims
Michellin Pilot Sport 4's 215/45/17

I had planned on running a set of gramlights 57dr's in 18x8.5 , but after some reading am wondering if it would be better to downsize to a 17" rim and not sure yet on width, but if i could keep the 18 would be better, and was planning on running 235/40/18 or should i look into smaller width tyres. Other mods i had planned to do in soon future were, the rear subframe bushings, diff bushings, gearbox mount bushings and steering rack bushings.


Allignment
-1.5 each side front with 0 toe
-0.8 each side rear with 0 toe

Other Questions:
I was looking also into getting camber plates for the front to try to get some more negative camber and was looking into "Lailes Beatrush Upper Pillowball Mounts" which fit with the stock suspension. Any thoughts on these or should i go for Verus/Velox or another option.



Regards

[14stu]

Originally Posted by teajae

Hi, i currently compete in a local hillclimb/tarmac rally events and was wondering if there was any changes i should make to the car to suit this better vs track or autox.

The road surface that we compete on is quite bumpy and rough sometimes and is mixed between concrete/asphalt

Mods:
Whiteline Front Camber Bolts
Stock OEM Rims
Michellin Pilot Sport 4's 215/45/17

I had planned on running a set of gramlights 57dr's in 18x8.5 , but after some reading am wondering if it would be better to downsize to a 17" rim and not sure yet on width, but if i could keep the 18 would be better, and was planning on running 235/40/18 or should i look into smaller width tyres. Other mods i had planned to do in soon future were, the rear subframe bushings, diff bushings, gearbox mount bushings and steering rack bushings.


Allignment
-1.5 each side front with 0 toe
-0.8 each side rear with 0 toe

Other Questions:
I was looking also into getting camber plates for the front to try to get some more negative camber and was looking into "Lailes Beatrush Upper Pillowball Mounts" which fit with the stock suspension. Any thoughts on these or should i go for Verus/Velox or another option.



Regards

There are significant cost savings on 17" tires over 18" tires and no real performance benefit to the 18's.

You need to pick a class before you start modifying. Get familiar with the rule sets that the organizations you plan on running with use and prep your car for a specific class.

You'll want to get to around -3 degrees of camber up front to keep from excessive shoulder wear on your tires (class permitted). If you're planning on going to the track you'll need an oil cooler, track brake pads, and high temp brake fluid. The widest tires allowed (that'll fit without rubbing) are usually the fastest (255's on 9" wheels are about the biggest you can easily fit).

If you have a 2013-2016 car, the SSC (spec sport coupe) class is a great dual purpose track and autox build that's not too expensive and doesn't negatively impact daily driving. I'm not sure about groups in Australia, but Spec classes have the benefit of an even playing field and take the guess work out of modifications and are a great place to start.

For autox, the Bridgestone RE71r and BFG Rival 1.5s are the kings of grip and are worth more time than just about any other mod. I've found the RE71r to be a little too soft/quick wearing to be a reasonable track tire but I know a number of people who track them without any real issues (if you use a lot of slip angle they are easy to over heat and chew through them very quickly).

Bushings won't make any noticeable time differences, they should be pretty low on the priority list unless you are replacing worn out parts.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by teajae

Hi, i currently compete in a local hillclimb/tarmac rally events and was wondering if there was any changes i should make to the car to suit this better vs track or autox.

The road surface that we compete on is quite bumpy and rough sometimes and is mixed between concrete/asphalt

Mods:
Whiteline Front Camber Bolts
Stock OEM Rims
Michellin Pilot Sport 4's 215/45/17

I had planned on running a set of gramlights 57dr's in 18x8.5 , but after some reading am wondering if it would be better to downsize to a 17" rim and not sure yet on width, but if i could keep the 18 would be better, and was planning on running 235/40/18 or should i look into smaller width tyres. Other mods i had planned to do in soon future were, the rear subframe bushings, diff bushings, gearbox mount bushings and steering rack bushings.


Allignment
-1.5 each side front with 0 toe
-0.8 each side rear with 0 toe

Other Questions:
I was looking also into getting camber plates for the front to try to get some more negative camber and was looking into "Lailes Beatrush Upper Pillowball Mounts" which fit with the stock suspension. Any thoughts on these or should i go for Verus/Velox or another option.



Regards

RaceSeng for camber plates on OEM dampers.

Go with the 17" for compliance and cheaper tires.

[14stu]

Originally Posted by Sgtfluffy16

looking for a suggestion on Tires. I do HPDE here on the east coast. Shenandoah, VIR, PITT race, Pocono, Watkins Glen. I have been running my tires from Autocross RE71R's in a 255/40/17 i typically running around 30 PSI front and rear which seems to work great. I know that on super hot days these tires have SOO much track pickup. but what i have really noticed is the center tread block on both front tires. the Inner part of the tread block is wearing unevenly. I don't have a picture at the moment but i will try to draw you a picture of how the tires are wearing... any suggestion on why they are wearing like this? I will be coming up on replacing tires soon. so what would be a good dedicated track tire be?

Driver ---- --\ ---- Passenger ---- /-- ----

That's how the RE71r's wear, the center rib always wears out quickly.

[Clutch Dog]

another vote for thats how they wear

both them the Rivals and V720's wear quickly in the center. welcome to the wonderful world of 200tws


for track specific use I hear great things about the nankang Ar-1 and maxxis makes a good radial

[Pat]

Originally Posted by 14stu

That's how the RE71r's wear, the center rib always wears out quickly.

Huh. Interesting. I've never heard of a tire that always wears a certain way regardless of other factors. That said, I've never driven RE71Rs, either.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Sgtfluffy16

Okay, so I'm not the only one who is experiencing it. When I do go to replace tires what would be a good alternative? I've got about 10 track days on these tires. I should be at least able to get another 6 out of them in my opinion

Why do you want a different tire? imho they're good past the wear bars with little exception.
If you're getting 16 track days out of an RE71R you'll get 32 track days out of a Hankook RS3 or Maxxis VR1, and GT Radial SX2s will probably dry rot before you wear them out. Faster tires like the Nankangs and Maxxis have already been mentioned.

Originally Posted by Pat

Huh. Interesting. I've never heard of a tire that always wears a certain way regardless of other factors. That said, I've never driven RE71Rs, either.

I heard its how they react to how they're driven combined with the strut front of this car (the rears get some rib wear but not as much as the front usually), if you don't work them too hard on transition (brake/turn in blending) then you can reduce that center rib edge wear, but that in itself is not problematic.

[Takumi788]

Originally Posted by Sgtfluffy16

When I do go to replace tires what would be a good alternative? I've got about 10 track days on these tires. I should be at least able to get another 6 out of them in my opinion

I just went through this exact thought over the course of this year. I wore through a set of RE71Rs in about the same time you did. I was faster than ever and the grip was awesome.

Then I bought a set of Dunlop ZIIIs in an attempt to get more life out of them. Tire rack has them at .1 seconds slower than the RE71R so I figured they would be close. They weren't. They aren't even in the same ball park. I did get 14 days out of those. But they were slow.

The question is, do you want to be fast on a "200tw" tire? Buy the RE71Rs and be ready to replace them often. Do you just want to have some fun with a tire that will last all year? Buy Maxxis RC1s. They last forever but after 5ish heat cycles they are noticeably slower than the RE71Rs. And they REALLY dont work when even a little cold.

[enivid]

Has anyone tried the maxxis rc-1 r2 compound?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[Sgtfluffy16]

BTW if anyone is looking for a tire trailer i am selling mine. here is a link https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...73#post3254173

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Sgtfluffy16

I would rather have Grip more than anything. plus i just don't like the fact that they get greasy after a few laps. the tire pick up is insane. I have literally pulled the front tires off between sessions to remove the track pick up from the tire

Run Michelin slicks.

[Sgtfluffy16]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Run Michelin slicks.

I appreciate your suggestion. The name a Michelin slick says two things to me. I'm super serious, and I have Deep Pockets. I can't imagine how expensive they are

[ka-titties]

Does anyone have suggestions for good online/video instruction on track driving? I feel like I'm at the in-between area where my track etiquette is good and my basic track driving strategy is there, but I could use some key pointers or knowledge to practice at before I go paying for in-person instruction or a more advanced instruction.

Any solid videos or literature anyone could point me too would be much appreciated.