TSW Wheels (Good/Bad/Experiences?)

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by yoshiharadesign

When I hear wheels are soft, it usually means that wheels are prone to bending. Which goes back to balance of strength/lightweight. For street use, there are just much more variables than the smooth surfaces of a race track. A race wheel structurally reduces material to be lighter but at a sacrifice of load capacity and a reduction of safety margins on strength. A street wheel has to contend with the variations of load in terms of additional cargo and passengers while still contending with the severity of a pothole and irregular surfaces on the road. Responsible street wheel manufacturers usually build in more material to give more strength but at a higher weight.. Unfortunately, there seems to be the notion that the lighter the wheel, the better, almost at a disregard for these other variables that needs to be reviewed. But when the wheel is bent or damaged at a significant replacement or repair cost to a consumer, that is when the merits of a heavier and less expensive wheel exhibits its merits....

But forged wheels are still stronger than cast (or some advanced variation of casting technique), all other things being equal right? I bought cast WedsSports which were also offered in a forged "racing" version. In that case, the racing version was both lighter and stronger, I believe.

When people shop for lighter weight, they should also be mindful of certification (I believe there are different achievable levels of JWL certification that go up in stringency). These certifications test for a wheels resistance to impact, bending, etc. and essentially safety. In some cases, heavy wheels achieve lower certification (example could be WedsSports vs. Rotas). Usually in that case, lighter wheel = stronger wheel.

[OZ-BRZ]

Check these out, NICE http://www.modbargains.com/Subaru-BRZ-Wheels.htm

[yoshiharadesign]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

But forged wheels are still stronger than cast (or some advanced variation of casting technique), all other things being equal right? I bought cast WedsSports which were also offered in a forged "racing" version. In that case, the racing version was both lighter and stronger, I believe.

When people shop for lighter weight, they should also be mindful of certification (I believe there are different achievable levels of JWL certification that go up in stringency). These certifications test for a wheels resistance to impact, bending, etc. and essentially safety. In some cases, heavy wheels achieve lower certification (example could be WedsSports vs. Rotas). Usually in that case, lighter wheel = stronger wheel.

Forged wheels are lighter because of the compression of the material to allow for greater strength, thus the ability to eliminate more weight. However, the elimination of added material does affect the overall structure and strength. If you have an identically dimensioned wheel in both cast and forged, the weight difference is going to be very small. It is when the spokes are thinner and materials are less on a forged wheel that allows for the wheel to be lighter. But often, forged wheels are weight reduced to comply and pass the same wheel standards as cast, meaning that it still can bend under the same conditions that a cast wheel is subjected to. Its just the forged wheels are lighter... so in a nut shell, forged wheels can be lighter but not necessarily stronger. It can be stronger only if manufacturers retain the added material to give it additional strength. But lightness and strength are opposing factors and it boils down to a best balance between the 2.

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by yoshiharadesign

Forged wheels are lighter because of the compression of the material to allow for greater strength, thus the ability to eliminate more weight. However, the elimination of added material does affect the overall structure and strength. If you have an identically dimensioned wheel in both cast and forged, the weight difference is going to be very small. It is when the spokes are thinner and materials are less on a forged wheel that allows for the wheel to be lighter. But often, forged wheels are weight reduced to comply and pass the same wheel standards as cast, meaning that it still can bend under the same conditions that a cast wheel is subjected to. Its just the forged wheels are lighter... so in a nut shell, forged wheels can be lighter but not necessarily stronger. It can be stronger only if manufacturers retain the added material to give it additional strength. But lightness and strength are opposing factors and it boils down to a best balance between the 2.

I get that they intentionally remove material in a forged wheel so it will lose some potential strength. But when I say one wheel is forged and one wheel is cast with *all other things being equal* (meaning identical spoke design and size/thickness/dimensions between the two), the forged wheel will be both lighter and stronger than the cast wheel. I believe the forged process results in a different microcrystalline structure that lends it to be stronger whilst using less material. I just want to get that straight. I get what you're saying but it's a little misleading because it isn't clear whether you are accounting for "all other things being equal."

[ModBargains.com]

Of course you can call me biased if you like, but in all honesty TSW is one of the most consistent wheel manufacturers we deal with. Never had an issue with structural problems, never had an issue with finish issues either. Honestly just a great overall wheel, with a great price, and a great overall look too. Can't go wrong.

Let me know if you guys need help with TSW, we've been working with them for years, and we do several sets per week, with and without tires

[yoshiharadesign]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

I get that they intentionally remove material in a forged wheel so it will lose some potential strength. But when I say one wheel is forged and one wheel is cast with *all other things being equal* (meaning identical spoke design and size/thickness/dimensions between the two), the forged wheel will be both lighter and stronger than the cast wheel. I believe the forged process results in a different microcrystalline structure that lends it to be stronger whilst using less material. I just want to get that straight. I get what you're saying but it's a little misleading because it isn't clear whether you are accounting for "all other things being equal."

Yes the structure lends to greater strength but as considering if a cast wheel and forged wheel are both the same dimensions, Im not sure how it can be concluded to be much lighter. It may be a lighter because of the slightly different grade of material used. but it has less to do with the structure than material. We know this because we also have offered forged wheels in 17" at 12.5lbs and 18" at 16 lbs. Its just that for the amount of weight difference relative to price, an advanced casting offers real world advantages and easier replacement cost. We have achieved same strength tolerances for a cast wheel vs a forged wheel, weight differences of 2-3 lbs and at a minimum of $150 difference in price.

[86-tundra]

I know this is an old thread, but I am necro'ing it because I have recently run into an issue with a Black Rhino (TSW product) wheel on my Tundra.

I purchase TSW wheels for my FR-S and loved them. So I went to Black Rhino, which is an offshoot of TSW.

I believe that from the factory, one of my wheels came bent. It was hard to tell at first, because I thought the wheel shake was from difference in bore and no hub centric rings. but then I found out, I actually had stock bore.. so I took it in due to wheel shake problems.

The bent wheel, installed for 4 months, put a bald spot on one of my tires and ruined the tire.

I came to google and found this thread, which I thought to be relevant so I thought I'd share my experiences. If you notice wheel shake, take it back and make sure that wheel isn't bent. I believe it should have been noticed by the tech who installed them, but not sure what happened. I definitely haven't taken it off road or hit anything to cause the bend.

Pretty disappointed in TSW right now.

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by trevorovert

I know this is an old thread, but I am necro'ing it because I have recently run into an issue with a Black Rhino (TSW product) wheel on my Tundra.

I purchase TSW wheels for my FR-S and loved them. So I went to Black Rhino, which is an offshoot of TSW.

I believe that from the factory, one of my wheels came bent. It was hard to tell at first, because I thought the wheel shake was from difference in bore and no hub centric rings. but then I found out, I actually had stock bore.. so I took it in due to wheel shake problems.

The bent wheel, installed for 4 months, put a bald spot on one of my tires and ruined the tire.

I came to google and found this thread, which I thought to be relevant so I thought I'd share my experiences. If you notice wheel shake, take it back and make sure that wheel isn't bent. I believe it should have been noticed by the tech who installed them, but not sure what happened. I definitely haven't taken it off road or hit anything to cause the bend.

Pretty disappointed in TSW right now.

Yeah, I was just about to ask how the tire place didn't notice it was bent when mounting/balancing?

[86-tundra]

Originally Posted by Shutter

Yeah, I was just about to ask how the tire place didn't notice it was bent when mounting/balancing?

Not sure, I can't imagine it bent when I was driving it. I am 100% sure I didn't hit anything, or take it off road. I am the only one that drives it. I really am unsure how it isn't a factory defect, and am thinking maybe the guy installing was just negligent? I am not sure.

[swarb]

Originally Posted by trevorovert

Not sure, I can't imagine it bent when I was driving it. I am 100% sure I didn't hit anything, or take it off road. I am the only one that drives it. I really am unsure how it isn't a factory defect, and am thinking maybe the guy installing was just negligent? I am not sure.

So you drove it for four months??
And it was shaking from the start?

[86-tundra]

Originally Posted by swarb

So you drove it for four months??
And it was shaking from the start?

Is that really that crazy? It wasn't bad at all. Very specific, like 64-67 mph. I had no idea it could be bent from the factory, and thought it just had to do with not having hubcentric rings.