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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 12-10-2014, 12:14 PM   #2213
Choong86
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Well you'll need a clutch, possibly flex fuel depending how you want to run your setup. 400whp should be possible on e85, e85 runs a lot cooler, depending on the temperature where you live, you may be able to skip on the radiator stuff for a while


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yeah i wanna be able to switch between 98 and e85, would a flex fuel kit help for that?

from australia so summers are about 30-40 degrees celsius and winters are 10-20 degrees

one more question: would i be fine running by current 2.5'' motiv fp/op combo with a 3" tomei exhaust with the system, or should i switch out my fp/op to 3'' as well
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Old 12-10-2014, 12:18 PM   #2214
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Originally Posted by Choong86 View Post
yeah i wanna be able to switch between 98 and e85, would a flex fuel kit help for that?



from australia so summers are about 30-40 degrees celsius and winters are 10-20 degrees



one more question: would i be fine running by current 2.5'' motiv fp/op combo with a 3" tomei exhaust with the system, or should i switch out my fp/op to 3'' as well

I think fp/op might need to be fbm's due to the turbo manifold, i'm not 100% sure though, My car is in their shop getting completely built, 3" from the turbo back. Flex fuel would definitely be way better, you only need 1 map, and you also wouldnt have to worry about being almost out of fuel before switching back and fueling up, also don't have to worry about remembering to switch maps, which could be deadly for the engine. fullblown sells a plug and play flex fuel kit for 749$ i believe (you'd just need a tune), you'll be okay for temps in the winter, but probably need the upgraded rad in the summer depending how hard you push it, their oil cooler kit is a good thing to consider as well


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Old 12-10-2014, 12:23 PM   #2215
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Your fp/op is fine. I would get a bigger oil pan. Either fullblown cast pan or a racerx or map pan. More capacity is nice and you won't have to drill and weld the stock pan.
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:48 PM   #2216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choong86 View Post
yeah i wanna be able to switch between 98 and e85, would a flex fuel kit help for that?

from australia so summers are about 30-40 degrees celsius and winters are 10-20 degrees

one more question: would i be fine running by current 2.5'' motiv fp/op combo with a 3" tomei exhaust with the system, or should i switch out my fp/op to 3'' as well
Your FP/OP will be fine. I would prioritize your upgrades as a clutch and a boost/wideband gauge. The flex fuel kit can wait till you have it running properly on 98.
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Old 12-10-2014, 02:03 PM   #2217
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I just recently purchased the base kit with the gt2871r turbo. After talking briefly to FB they recommended upgrading the fans, radiator and clutch. This will be a daily driver and I'm aiming for the typical 300-320hp mark for now. Anything else y'all can suggest to upgrade?
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:10 PM   #2218
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I just recently purchased the base kit with the gt2871r turbo. After talking briefly to FB they recommended upgrading the fans, radiator and clutch. This will be a daily driver and I'm aiming for the typical 300-320hp mark for now. Anything else y'all can suggest to upgrade?
A wideband and boost gauge!!!! Thier shroud and fan combo, rad, bigger oil pan, clutch, tires, brake pads and fluid.
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:12 PM   #2219
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A wideband and boost gauge!!!! Thier shroud and fan combo, rad, bigger oil pan, clutch, tires, brake pads and fluid.
@willharp360 or... If you're anything like Dipstik, keep the oem tires because drift car. Hahah


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Old 12-10-2014, 06:04 PM   #2220
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A wideband and boost gauge!!!! Thier shroud and fan combo, rad, bigger oil pan, clutch, tires, brake pads and fluid.


Says the guy who ran 360whp on Prius tires, and finally upgraded his brakes @Dipstik-sportech
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:05 PM   #2221
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Says the guy who ran 360whp on Prius tires, and finally upgraded his brakes @Dipstik-sportech

Pretty sure he ran 430whp on them tires too haha


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Old 12-10-2014, 07:01 PM   #2222
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Anybody running a catted FBM setup?
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:48 PM   #2223
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dumb question i cant remember from the install.. are the FBM 550cc injectors bosch ?
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:09 PM   #2224
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dumb question i cant remember from the install.. are the FBM 550cc injectors bosch ?
Bosch ev14
pt#0280158117

IIRC I beleive tut said they were basicly 07-10 Ford GT500 injectors. I'm not sure if these were reworked/rebranded by Injector Dynamics though.
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:14 PM   #2225
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Quote:
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Bosch ev14
pt#0280158117

IIRC I beleive tut said they were basicly 07-10 Ford GT500 injectors. I'm not sure if these were reworked/rebranded by Injector Dynamics though.

Just curious about it, debating on getting a flash and go from @delicoustuning (reason being is for the CEL P0441 and traction control light still going on. i have check and clapped all my lines and still comes up) tired of clearing it.. or a aem failsafe gauge and frontpipe
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Old 12-12-2014, 05:18 PM   #2226
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So, has anyone else noticed this about their header?

These first two pictures show that I have one of the flanges lined up the best I can to the factory manifold, which fell off the factory studs/block with NO issues.




This picture shows how far off this flange/the runners are in comparison to having the other flange clocked correctly. You can also see in this picture how far off each runner is in comparison to the mounting hole it's next to. These runners should be aligned on center, and the flanges appear to be CNC cut so I do not think their mounting holes are incorrect. It appears to be either a sloppy job of initial fixturing/welding, or it was sloppy to begin with and has moved with the heat cycles after being on two cars before mine.



The flanges are obviously twisted. It doesn't look like it was beat up during initial installation or shipping (I bought it second-second hand), and the carbon build up on the flanges themselves show that they're not sitting where they should be.

The runners themselves are off compared to the flange too, and you can see that by looking down the runner and seeing how much was filled in by weld.


Any ideas on how to correct this? The manifold has absolutely NO spring to it and I can't force it on to the studs, so I'm thinking that I'll either have the guys at FBM throw it back on their jig and repair it, or I can just cut the flanges off and weld new ones on myself.
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