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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 06-05-2019, 08:46 AM   #3613
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I had the Whiteline subframe inserts on my car. I can't see how they'd be illegal, the inner steel tube of the stock bushing was still what was pressed against the frame rails, the insert just filled the gaps in the stock rubber bushing and the gap between the subframe and the body.

FWIW I noticed almost no difference from the subframe bushing inserts, but it's cheap and it was an easy "while you're in there" thing I guess.
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Old 06-05-2019, 09:36 AM   #3614
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That's a good point about the inner sleeve still making contact. I wasn't exactly sure how the inserts integrated. Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:52 PM   #3615
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newbie BRZ to STX

I picked up the car back in late January and was originally going to start in DS, well I sold my DS wheels and currently have SSC wheels and tires and SSC koni yellows, and picked up a Greddy GT catback, well after long thought, lol, i think futuristically i wanna be adding power ie header and tune so i might as well build toward stx then, not SSC so not have to tear suspension back off,, So will my 17 x 8s be good enough (love the looks of them Gloss bronze ampliforms) if i put say 245/40/17s on them right now i got at least 75% worn azenis SSC spec size, and what about throwing a set of springs on the konis, ie maybe Swift spec r etc? my next thing was to get an alignment kit. I wondered if i would be better off just selling the SSC konis top hats and all and put that money onto a set of coilovers like maybe SS1 or ST XTAs? This car is mostly gonna be a daily with some autox events here and there and couple track days, just want to have some fun locally. thanks . One concern i have is i was unaware of the decreased ground clearance of that GT exhaust till after i bought it, so i think being a daily and the fact of that exhaust prob a 1 inch drop max is prob all i want to do.

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Old 06-10-2019, 02:31 PM   #3616
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Have you autocrossed the car stock? How many autox events have you done total?

Seat time and some coaching is probably your best investment right now. None of the parts on your list would be worth putting into an 'stx' build imho, but they could be a lot of fun as a casual 'do-it-all' car if you don't mind being slower than the other STX cars.

How deep down the rabbit hole do you want to go?

My 2 cents is bolt up the fun parts you have (take your pick) and just drive the rest of the season, maybe tweak a few things on the cheap like alignment bolts, learn. Figure out what coilovers you want for next year and keep an eye out for a set of used 17x9's, they might even have RE71R's or BFG's on them after Nats. I'm super happy with my ProParts Megans but think they're a little stiff for DD, you could easily get those with a slightly softer spring and have a good setup pretty quick. Alternatively since you're in Pennsylvania, I believe Sam Strano had been working with a few locals and setting them up on HKS coilovers, he also has experience with the KW stuff so SS1/XTA might be viable as a casual suspension if they're set up right. Autox suspension isn't easy, very few cater to it, copy what is currently performing well if that's your goal.

I'm lucky, got to ride with a few people and experience a few different coilovers before buying mine, if you can do the same it should help a lot.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:45 PM   #3617
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stx

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Have you autocrossed the car stock? How many autox events have you done total?

Seat time and some coaching is probably your best investment right now. None of the parts on your list would be worth putting into an 'stx' build imho, but they could be a lot of fun as a casual 'do-it-all' car if you don't mind being slower than the other STX cars.

How deep down the rabbit hole do you want to go?

My 2 cents is bolt up the fun parts you have (take your pick) and just drive the rest of the season, maybe tweak a few things on the cheap like alignment bolts, learn. Figure out what coilovers you want for next year and keep an eye out for a set of used 17x9's, they might even have RE71R's or BFG's on them after Nats. I'm super happy with my ProParts Megans but think they're a little stiff for DD, you could easily get those with a slightly softer spring and have a good setup pretty quick. Alternatively since you're in Pennsylvania, I believe Sam Strano had been working with a few locals and setting them up on HKS coilovers, he also has experience with the KW stuff so SS1/XTA might be viable as a casual suspension if they're set up right. Autox suspension isn't easy, very few cater to it, copy what is currently performing well if that's your goal.

I'm lucky, got to ride with a few people and experience a few different coilovers before buying mine, if you can do the same it should help a lot.
I have done about 60-70 events in the past, i ran a Gstock (back about 6 years ago or so) 08 civic si, then built that car for STX and ran it for 2 years, then got a 05 S2k and ran that in BS, and have co driven a few other cars but only have run about once- twice a year over the fast few years due to work etc. i have only run the BRZ once so far totally stock this year.

As for the rabbit hole, not real far....want to keep this as a daily on not have it to be miserable to drive and i really don't see me doing anything nationally due to difficulty even making it to local events time wise and gonna need some serious seat time to go to any national type events,

As for the parts, i agree they are not the weapons of choice ATM to be competitive lol but with me being very dusty prob not gonna be anyhow competitive

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Old 06-10-2019, 04:22 PM   #3618
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And as for Sam, he has been great!, i have already been contacting him, i bought all my diff/ mtf fluids and ferodos 2500 / rotors from him and planning on buying anything that is new from unless i get something used instead. We already discussed the XTAs, but haven't talked about the Hks option
Thanks!!!
Shit you know what's up and you're talking to someone more knowledgeable than 95% of the posters in this thread. He might not have mentioned HKS because I think they're reducing their operations in North America or something, might be a little tough to work with although it looks like kits are in stock.

I say hop in an SSC car and an STX car locally if you can, maybe drive around the paddock some and feel what that range of spring stiffnesses is like, lowering springs are generally 200#-300# on this car and coilovers 300#-500#

I like the Swifts on paper because they're stiffer in the rear, Eibach/SSC springs aren't bad, it's just the combo of SSC parts that can put people off which I think you can probably fix if you want to run STX-lite. A lowering rear top hat and/or cutting the rear bumpstop might make it all work much better. RCE Tarmacs/Yellows are equal rate front/rear and might suit some styles better.

Save a few bucks and put 225's on the 8's, since you're not going for time the feel is probably worth it.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:55 PM   #3619
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Shit you know what's up and you're talking to someone more knowledgeable than 95% of the posters in this thread. He might not have mentioned HKS because I think they're reducing their operations in North America or something, might be a little tough to work with although it looks like kits are in stock.

I say hop in an SSC car and an STX car locally if you can, maybe drive around the paddock some and feel what that range of spring stiffnesses is like, lowering springs are generally 200#-300# on this car and coilovers 300#-500#

I like the Swifts on paper because they're stiffer in the rear, Eibach/SSC springs aren't bad, it's just the combo of SSC parts that can put people off which I think you can probably fix if you want to run STX-lite. A lowering rear top hat and/or cutting the rear bumpstop might make it all work much better. RCE Tarmacs/Yellows are equal rate front/rear and might suit some styles better.

Save a few bucks and put 225's on the 8's, since you're not going for time the feel is probably worth it.
yeah next saturday i may try to take a run in someones ssc car which was my original plan on running, its really hard to find the tarmacs, they quit making them, and the yellows are getting scarce also but i think are too soft, i don't know what i could get out of SSC Yellows that are barely used (just a couple of events and 1000 miles? and with the new top hats etc but if it was half the way to the XTA kit i would prob jump on that or SS1s my STX civic ran well with konis and neuspeed sports though and held its own in stx back then.
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:00 PM   #3620
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i don't know what i could get out of SSC Yellows that are barely used (just a couple of events and 1000 miles? and with the new top hats etc but if it was half the way to the XTA kit i would prob jump on that or SS1s my STX civic ran well with konis and neuspeed sports though and held its own in stx back then.
The Facebook SSC group is fairly active, a few hundred bucks off should still be over $500 for the set right? I'd think you'd easily get over 50% what you paid for them with usage that light. Not chump change.
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Old 06-11-2019, 02:32 PM   #3621
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yeah next saturday i may try to take a run in someones ssc car which was my original plan on running, its really hard to find the tarmacs, they quit making them, and the yellows are getting scarce also but i think are too soft, i don't know what i could get out of SSC Yellows that are barely used (just a couple of events and 1000 miles? and with the new top hats etc but if it was half the way to the XTA kit i would prob jump on that or SS1s my STX civic ran well with konis and neuspeed sports though and held its own in stx back then.
There is at least one setup you may be interested in posted in the classified section of this forum.
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Old 06-20-2019, 01:14 PM   #3622
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I got an alignment recently after changing my ride heights (which I did not change much, particularly in the rear) and the guy doing it says that he couldn't get any less than -3.1 camber on the right rear. I had -2.5 before and I seem to remember that the guy that did that alignment said 2.5 was the MOST he could get. I'm going to check the eccentric positions and see if he was right or if he just didn't know what he was doing, but in the mean time I am wondering if -3.1 in the rear is just too much? I know the camber gain in the rear is decent. Has anyone run that much with good results? I'm afraid I may be sacrificing a lot of grip with that much, especially launching.
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Old 06-20-2019, 01:23 PM   #3623
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I got an alignment recently after changing my ride heights (which I did not change much, particularly in the rear) and the guy doing it says that he couldn't get any less than -3.1 camber on the right rear. I had -2.5 before and I seem to remember that the guy that did that alignment said 2.5 was the MOST he could get. I'm going to check the eccentric positions and see if he was right or if he just didn't know what he was doing, but in the mean time I am wondering if -3.1 in the rear is just too much? I know the camber gain in the rear is decent. Has anyone run that much with good results? I'm afraid I may be sacrificing a lot of grip with that much, especially launching.
Your guy saying he couldn't get any less than that doesn't make sense To me either.
I had -3 something last year. I thought in some situations in auto cross it was struggling for grip. Yes in straight line launches I got more wheel spin than I think I should have. So I dialed it back to 2.6. I think this is better over all. I have not noticed additional over steer because of it.


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Old 06-20-2019, 01:25 PM   #3624
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rear lca's

Speaking of rear alignment, the Verus LCA is STX legal correct? No need to be pushing/pressing any new bearings into that one is there ? lol
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Old 06-20-2019, 02:04 PM   #3625
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If you select the polyurethane option then it should be legal but you should measure to be sure.
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:08 PM   #3626
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Your guy saying he couldn't get any less than that doesn't make sense To me either.

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I figured out the problem. The alignment rack was mis-reading my right rear. The guy told me that was the one that couldn't get less than 3.1. I looked and sure enough to toe bar is adjusted to max toe in. I used my digital angle finder and the right rear is actually -2.55. the left rear is -3.1 right where the print out says it is. So for some reason the alignment rack was reading my right rear at .5 higher than it actually was. I hate spending 8 hours of my time doing an alignment with strings but I hate paying $130 for crappy alignment even more.
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