Since beastronix is no more, what’s the alternative?

[Opie]

Originally Posted by geraldjust

well i came up with a cheap enough price for the first sets of preorders. Just wondering how many people actually want something like this. il have it on my website for more info:geraldjustprojects.com

but i can answer questions here.

as for the switching i love those switches too! but if we are doing switches i think maybe doing one switch per feature would be better.

Awesome!

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Opie

Awesome!

Did you preorder one? We need to talk Aaron into one and buy three...

[Chuckls]

Pre-ordered mine. Gerald is an absolute quick dude at responding to emails. Super excited to throw it in the tS!

[peaches]

ordered one, we'll see how it turns out

[Stang70Fastback]

Not to derail this thread, but I'm the maker of the Series.Blue Adventures switch panels for that cubby hole, so I just wanted to chime in. Gerald had actually reached out to me a while back with questions about the switch panel to make sure this unit would work right with the switches I use (I didn't realize why he was asking so many questions at the time, lol, just thought he was another buyer contemplating a purchase.) I shipped him a switch panel a few days ago, and also ordered one of his units for MY switch panel yesterday. I believe he intends on making a video showing the entire install process (something I probably should have done a long time ago.)

To clarify a few questions (don't have time to read over all the comments at the moment, but I skimmed them), my switches do have 3 spade connectors on the back. One is basically 12V in, one is 12V out, and one is ground. The ground is ENTIRELY optional, and its only purpose is to serve to complete the circuit for the LED in the switch itself. Basically, if you don't ground the switch, the LED won't turn on. The switch itself will still work, so it's just a matter of whether or not you want it to light up. Generally how I wire these switches up is I daisy chain all the ground leads together to form one ground that goes to the chassis somewhere. I also daisy chain all the 12V inputs together and wire them to a single 12V source (in my case it was a switched source as I wanted the switches to turn off if ignition was turned off, even if I left them on by accident.) Then you just have the 12V out leads from each switch that goes to whatever you are powering. In the case of Gerald's unit, I believe that is what you would connect to the inputs on his box. It sounds like he also provides ground leads that you could use for the switch grounds if you want, but I'm not 100% clear on that to be honest. I'm sure his video will clear all that up - and so can I once I receive the part from him too.

Here is an old photo from when I made a hand-crafted prototype switch panel, showing how I was doing the wiring. You can see how the 12V inputs, and the grounds are all daisy-chained together. (Ignore how messy the actual panel is - like I said - it was a cobbled-together prototype, lol.)





I see the URL has already been posted, but I'll share it again below. Been getting lots of orders lately, so I'm a bit backed up, but at present it shouldn't be more than 1-2 weeks before I can get all the current pending orders shipped out (I was more than 40 orders behind due to my switch supplier being back-ordered for three months, lol.) I sell both LHD and RHD versions, as well as both small and large versions for the two different cubby hole sizes (depending on whether your car has the push-start button.) For the larger size, you can pick between 4 or 6 switches too.

I've sold well over 200 of these things so far over the past year or so, and nobody has complained yet!

https://www.seriesblueadventures.com.../switch-panel/

[geraldjust]

Hey guys! so started shipping out all the Boxes. Hopefully il be able to finish them up by the end of tomorrow so the rest will go out monday.

I do have some new videos in the product page!

https://www.geraldjustprojects.com/p...gt86-trac-box/

Guys let me know if anyone has questions!

[NoHaveMSG]

You are the hero we do not deserve.

[Dave-ROR]

And i forgot to preorder. Oops. Black Friday sale? Lol

[ML]

So if you only choose peddle dance always on do you even need a switch/button?

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by ML

So if you only choose peddle dance always on do you even need a switch/button?

Nope!

[geraldjust]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

And i forgot to preorder. Oops. Black Friday sale? Lol

Probably! im finishing up the shipping on the existing ones. Or perhaps some coupon codes.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by geraldjust

Probably! im finishing up the shipping on the existing ones. Or perhaps some coupon codes.

I hate having to penny pinch, so many great features, plus I really want to fiddle with PD again. Did you ever sort out if abs disable is working right? Not a drifter, but it was educational.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by geraldjust

Well if you have a gutten car/ race car only then sure. But this won't be something I will do in general. The way I can try and do it is by emulating the airbag ecu. But even then I can't promise it working. It's a il tos it in there to see if it works.

Same for the ABS disable. Not sure about it so I won't claim I can do that. I can add it but no guarantee.

Originally I assumed that the abs disable though canbus is the same as pulling the fuse. But (some people) are saying that in their old beastronix it did not turn off the brake biassing (from what they can tell). So it would be interesting to see if what I found is similar to that or not.

But I agree. In a track ABS disable isn't usefully at all. If your drifting or want to go sideways then sure. But at that point why not just pull the abs fuse.

Agree on the ABS, I wouldn't mind it as a switched option, as sometimes in the dry we will run without ABS on certain tracks with certain drivers. Then in the event of rain or a different driver we will put the ABS back on.

The SRS and Seat Belt lights and chimes are real nice to have disabled in a race car especially during pitstops in endurance races!

Thanks again.

-mike

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by prandelia

Don't jump on the brake pedal. That will do it every time, because it forces your ABS program to immediately dump rear bias, sending it all to the front, and increasing Ice Mode potential

Try to straighten the wheel as much as possible before braking.

Try a pad with less initial bite, or matches up better with your tire grip. "Endurance" compounds are always a great choice for smooth initial bite and ABS compatibility.

I've had it only about 1 time, and I'm in a race car on hoosiers, using Raybestos ST42. Those are the lowest bite, "enduro" compound they offer, and it's as much initial bite and torque as I'd want. I have been thrilled with the lack of ABS interference thus far. I have tons of experience trying to dodge "ice mode" in Porsches. The key is to use an endurance style pad that has a torque curve that rises slightly with heat. It allows much better modulation and plays nicer with ABS programs.

In almost 40K track miles on our race cars and track cars we've only seen the Ice mode hit 1x during a race.

-mike