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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe


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Old 09-02-2016, 02:48 PM   #71
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I lol'ed to the track button
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:55 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by funwheeldrive View Post
That's all I meant, some people beat the piss out of the car right out of the box.

I didn't know if you hit redline yet.
How bad (if at all) is it to rev the engine over 4k during the break-in period?
I'm at about 200-250 miles on mine right now; I haven't redlined it, but I've definitely gone up to 5k-6k on occasion when overtaking on the highway, etc., and over 4k maybe a couple times a day so far. Never for extended periods, mind.

I seem to read conflicting reports on it. I'm essentially just driving it as I would after the break-in. (I guess I'm going a little easier on it than I would, especially since I'm still getting used to driving stick.)
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:59 PM   #73
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I had the samething on my MY17 BRZ. Checked out the manual and on pg. 200 it said if it's blue it meant low engine coolant temperature indicator. I then called dealer's service dept. and they confirmed it's anticipated and just ignore it unless it stays like that even after some driving.

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Whats this mean


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Old 09-02-2016, 06:06 PM   #74
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Have a look at this article.

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe...service=mobile

The manual on pg. 157 does say keep it under 4000 rpm for first 1000 miles/1600km. Probably a good idea even just for the sake of avoiding people who want to race ya because you're wringing it all out.

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How bad (if at all) is it to rev the engine over 4k during the break-in period?
I'm at about 200-250 miles on mine right now; I haven't redlined it, but I've definitely gone up to 5k-6k on occasion when overtaking on the highway, etc., and over 4k maybe a couple times a day so far. Never for extended periods, mind.

I seem to read conflicting reports on it. I'm essentially just driving it as I would after the break-in. (I guess I'm going a little easier on it than I would, especially since I'm still getting used to driving stick.)
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Old 09-02-2016, 06:12 PM   #75
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So make use of that shift light/beep and set it somewhere near 4000 or so ( eg just before the brz-vtec kicks in)
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Old 09-02-2016, 06:13 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by WWFT86 View Post
I had the samething on my MY17 BRZ. Checked out the manual and on pg. 200 it said if it's blue it meant low engine coolant temperature indicator. I then called dealer's service dept. and they confirmed it's anticipated and just ignore it unless it stays like that even after some driving.
Hmm i see! But did you also get the message saying turn power off along with the blue coolant indicator?

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Old 09-02-2016, 06:15 PM   #77
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No sir. Never seen such message on the dash.

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Hmm i see! But did you also get the message saying turn power off along with the blue coolant indicator?

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Old 09-02-2016, 06:26 PM   #78
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Thanks for the tip. Were these the steps you followed?

- close all doors trunk
- push button to on
- open driver side door while holding the door lock button
- hold button for 10 seconds
- 1x horn chirp means alarm is active
2x means it's disabled?

Not sure why they wouldnt default to active. Same with the door handle should default to opening both doors... To me that is what most people want/prefer?

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I haven't had that error or the blue light pop up in mine...also as a reminder if you have the limited your car alarm is disabled by default and you have to activate it if you want it.

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Old 09-02-2016, 07:13 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Zoh View Post
How bad (if at all) is it to rev the engine over 4k during the break-in period?
I'm at about 200-250 miles on mine right now; I haven't redlined it, but I've definitely gone up to 5k-6k on occasion when overtaking on the highway, etc., and over 4k maybe a couple times a day so far. Never for extended periods, mind.

I seem to read conflicting reports on it. I'm essentially just driving it as I would after the break-in. (I guess I'm going a little easier on it than I would, especially since I'm still getting used to driving stick.)
not at all, just dont lug it. get some good decels in from 5k (without "chopping" the gas")
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Old 09-02-2016, 07:21 PM   #80
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not at all, just dont lug it. get some good decels in from 5k (without "chopping" the gas")
Agreed, lugging the engine is terrible, and it's a mistake I feel like a lot of drivers new to manual transmission make.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:54 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WWFT86 View Post
Thanks for the tip. Were these the steps you followed?

- close all doors trunk
- push button to on
- open driver side door while holding the door lock button
- hold button for 10 seconds
- 1x horn chirp means alarm is active
2x means it's disabled?

Not sure why they wouldnt default to active. Same with the door handle should default to opening both doors... To me that is what most people want/prefer?
Some people prefer only one door to unlock from opening the driver handle for safety reasons.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:03 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by prj3ctm4yh3m View Post
not at all, just dont lug it. get some good decels in from 5k (without "chopping" the gas")
So, really dumb, newbie question here, since this is my first stick shift and I'm still learning every day: what is lugging?
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:30 PM   #83
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So, really dumb, newbie question here, since this is my first stick shift and I'm still learning every day: what is lugging?
Lugging is basically when you leave the car in a high gear and try to accelerate. If you want to speed up when you're already coasting, you should downshift.

I notice a lot of new manual drivers don't feel comfortable with rev matching and downshifting, but it's how the car is meant to be driven.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:35 PM   #84
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I find that the biting point is really high up (towards driver direction) and is really small so its hard to get 1st and 2md without jerking..

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