Changing spark plugs

[Packofcrows]

what is the dealership updated cost to do this?

[Mattstermh]

Thinking of doing the 60k maintenance (I'm only at 54k) and I mainly want to change plugs and do an oil change, and flush the AT fluid as well as the clear air filter. Anything else I should look out for? What is the full list of recommendations at 60k?

[kch]

Originally Posted by Mattstermh

Thinking of doing the 60k maintenance (I'm only at 54k) and I mainly want to change plugs and do an oil change, and flush the AT fluid as well as the clear air filter. Anything else I should look out for? What is the full list of recommendations at 60k?

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/mainte...015.html#notes

HVAC filter, diff fluid, brake fluid, inspect brake pads and rotors, etc.

[Mattstermh]

Originally Posted by kch

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/mainte...015.html#notes

HVAC filter, diff fluid, brake fluid, inspect brake pads and rotors, etc.

Thanks. Just got new brakes (pads and rotors) so I'm good there

[JPFr-s]

Good luck with the plugs. Just did mine on Saturday. What a pain in the ass. I did it without lifting the engine, but next time I think I'll just go ahead and lift it... 2.5 hours to change 4 plugs, including some beer and cigarette breaks. Patience is required.

[LotsaMiles]

I just turned over 111,000 and figure it's time to change the plugs before I blow a coil. This thread is a great help. Thanks!

BTW, I'm shocked people are replacing plugs in a modern car after only 60k miles. I'm STILL getting 33mpg on my stick and great performance on the original plugs. All I've done to this car since I bought it is clean the K7N filter a couple of times, replace the tires a lot and change the oil. It may be needing brakes fairly soon, though.

[arren123]

Originally Posted by LotsaMiles

I just turned over 111,000 and figure it's time to change the plugs before I blow a coil. This thread is a great help. Thanks!

BTW, I'm shocked people are replacing plugs in a modern car after only 60k miles. I'm STILL getting 33mpg on my stick and great performance on the original plugs. All I've done to this car since I bought it is clean the K7N filter a couple of times, replace the tires a lot and change the oil. It may be needing brakes fairly soon, though.

I did my plugs recently without lifting the engine. The passenger side was a piece of cake compared to the driver side. I found it easier to take out the skid plate and wrench the driver side plugs from under the car. It seemed like there was more clearance, but I had to have a helper shine a light and help position the wrench from the top side.

[FrostedFlakes]

The member that creates an official DIY tutorial with pics or a video will be a hero.
I still would love to see actual pics or guided video of how people actually change these spark plugs.

[mausr]

Originally Posted by FrostedFlakes

The member that creates an official DIY tutorial with pics or a video will be a hero.
I still would love to see actual pics or guided video of how people actually change these spark plugs.

I've changed the plugs last weekend and I think it would be quite challenging to create a good video. In my case the script would have been like this:

• first 15 minutes: removing engine ECU, strut braces, battery, injector cover on the left, etc.
• next 15 minutes: removing the coils with a 1/4" ratchet and a 10mm socket
• next 2 hours: figuring out what kind ratchet/socket/extension combo can be used to remove the plugs (and, in the meantime, silently and not so silently remembering all the engineers (and their relatives) who designed the car) -> not video friendly material
• next 1 hour: changing the plugs
• last 15 minutes: installing engine ECU, strut braces, battery, injector cover on the left, etc. and starting the to engine to verify the spark plug change was a success or a disaster

Anyway, the change is definitely possible (without lifting the engine) in less then two hours IF you have the right tools in the right size and you do not have extremely large hands. I'm about 185cm and 95kg and I was not limited by the size of my hands at all but the tools. Finally, from about 7-8 sets, the following configuration worked especially well:


These are 1/2", a long 14mm socket and a short wobble extension (in my case it was a King Tony 4223-02). I have used a flat(ish), extendable 1/2" ratchet to drive them:


The length of these two shall not be smaller than 11cm but not longer than 12cm (maybe 12.5cm), otherwise you do not have enough space to join/separate them.

In action:


To remove a plug:
- put the long socket onto the plug
- join the wobble extension to the socket
- loosen the plug with the ratchet and undo until you are still able to remove the drive
- separate the ratchet with a screwdriver (even better if you do not attach it fully to the extension -> see pic above)
- undo the plug further by hand until you can still able to remove the extension
- to remove the extension simply use a long screwdriver, push its blade between the extension and the long socket, twist it to separate them and then remove the extension
- undo the plug fully by hand
- remove the long socket
- remove the plug (I could do it by hand, without tools)

Install the plug in the reverse order.

If you want to torque the plugs down according to the specs, you most probably use a smaller ratchet, as the 1/2"s are usually starts from 20Nm and you need only 17 here. I used the following 1/4" setup and a torque wrench after I tightened the plugs cautiously with the above 1/2" setup:


What you have to be cautious if you use a 1/2" or a 3/8" drive is that the long socket has to be at least 55mm long, otherwise the terminal of the plug will fill the place of the square drive and thus you cannot join it and it will be a pain to remove the socket. Do not ask why I know this.

Other good tip what I read here, is to put/squeeze some rags just below the line of the plugs. Otherwise, if you drop something (fairly possible) you have to remove the stupid engine under cover with its unlimited number of bolts, screws and clips.

So to sum it up, it may terrifying for the first time, you have to learn how to handle the tools and have to collect experience how to use them, it will be challenging to enter that hole in the deep, but it becomes easier and easier and I bet both of you will be glad at the end. ()

[reeves]

Originally Posted by Packofcrows

what is the dealership updated cost to do this?

Got it changed at the dealership the other day for $478.
I don't mind paying some else to get the job done right. I've budgeted a few thousand for maintenance, might as well use it.

But seriously though, $40 for an OEM spark plug...? Youch!

suddenly having flashbacks of spending 15 minutes swapping out my $4 MR2 plugs....
. . .

[reeves]

I noticed they took my car for a 3-mile test drive too, but I don't care at this point. I don't baby my car and there's nothing they could do to it that I haven't already done myself. In fact, I hope the mechanic hit the 8K RPM rev limit in my car a few times while he drove it.. It'll be a good test for the newly installed plugs.

On the bright side, at least they didn't wash my car with their dirty rags!

[hmong337]

Holy hell you guys who go to the stealership got took! Plugs for this car are not cheap. Can't remember what I paid but it was well over $100 for 4 plugs. Fckin rip. First time through, took me about 2.5 hours and I lifted the engine. Can't imagine doing this job without lifting it. Next time it should be under an hour.

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by reeves

On the bright side, at least they didn't wash my car with their dirty rags!

Exactly, dealership wash is a disaster waiting to happen.

[theadmiral976]

Just finished this job without lifting the engine. All I can say is: be nice to your shop if you have them do it for you. They deserve every penny lol.

More to the point: my only additions/comments include
1) heed @mausr above. If you come up with any other socket/swivel/extension combos, you might have to spend 30 minutes taking it apart with 1.5 fingers jammed between the frame and the cylinder head. You might also cry a little halfway through. Or just burn the car to the ground.

2) be mindful of scratching the paint on the frame with a torque wrench. I was able to use my (relatively large) Craftsman torque wrench on the passenger side. Not so much on the driver's.

3) In my opinion, cylinder 3 (front driver's) is the worst because of the HPFP. There is very little clearance to operate a ratchet (even a fine toothed one).

4) In another thread (too lazy to link), someone showed that you have to remove the heat shield, gas lines, and driver's side stabilizer to get access to that side. I recommend this; however, the stabilizer bar doesn't have to be removed if you are careful pulling the heat shield.

5) Without a lift, I really don't recommend lifting the engine. This is coming from someone with high-moderate experience working on cars but low-moderate experience pulling engines. If you are more experienced, I could see how moving the engine could be easier in the long run. Many of us don't have lifts, which is my issue with moving several hundred pound things balanced on a couple stud mounts. But to each their own.