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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe


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Old 08-25-2015, 03:06 PM   #43
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It's less a lap time thing and more of a feedback and feel problem.
This.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:10 PM   #44
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Every time I drive the car it's spirited, and never had anything to complain about regarding throttle response.


Maybe I'm just a cave man. I've noticed sometimes my rev match isn't as good as I'd like it to be, but I've just started giving a little bit more of a blip and it seems to be helping.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:17 PM   #45
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Does anybody know the wheel weight for the stock OEM BRZ set up?
looking to upgrade wheels on TireRack but debating the weight of the wheels and color
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:29 PM   #46
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Does anybody know the wheel weight for the stock OEM BRZ set up?
looking to upgrade wheels on TireRack but debating the weight of the wheels and color
UMMMMM what?
Sortta random in the throttle response thread.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7535
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:19 PM   #47
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Every time I drive the car it's spirited, and never had anything to complain about regarding throttle response.

Maybe I'm just a cave man. I've noticed sometimes my rev match isn't as good as I'd like it to be, but I've just started giving a little bit more of a blip and it seems to be helping.
It's probably also to do with frame of reference, this throttle is definitely top 5 of all the motorized things I've driven (not including bikes). If I hadn't hopped back and forth between my FRS and my Truck I probably would have forgotten about it within a few weeks of ownership and I wouldn't still be posting in this thread.

Yeah even after 40k miles and 2.5 years my rev matching is really hit or miss, probably 50% of the time results in a disturbing bump one way or the other.

As for the wheel weights, I think someone is confused about the meaning of throttle response.
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:41 PM   #48
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If you ever have to unplug your battery....Or change your tune in your ecu, you definitely will feel what we are talking about. It's just how the car is before it learns pedal level vs. required torque.


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Honestly I've never noticed any of the issues being discussed.
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:54 PM   #49
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Just FYI:

The "slack" in the "cable" or "delayed response" is known as "deadband" in controls parlance.

It is when the system output does not respond to small inputs.
Most control systems have built in deadband for the various Inputs.

It is very similar to "lash" when talking about gears, or Hysteresis when talking about Magnetics.
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:37 PM   #50
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Yup. From a process engineer's perspective:

Deadband prevents unwanted transient conditions that would otherwise be negative to the overall operation. Perhaps it's Toyota's preset deadband for throttle. Some good examples of when deadband is used (non automotive):

Turning on a really big air conditioner dims lights in some homes. In industrial settings, you can't allow such spikes, and equipment is ramped up regardless of the input.

Opening of valves too fast can prevent "water hammer". Water can rush into piping too fast and damage stuff.

when you get lucky and finally just get the tip in, do you immediately start banging your gf/wife/one night stand immediately at 100%?

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Old 08-25-2015, 07:29 PM   #51
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@stugray and @drewbot

Like I've posted before, zero problem with the dead space "slack" from zero to initial tip in but the more I read you guys the more I think that maybe you ARE talking about what I'm experiencing?

Like when I go from 30% throttle to 50% throttle very quickly, would deadband apply in that scenario? I would assume there's a component of the response that is unavoidable given that the data must be sent and processed and used but you guys seem to imply that there's another component that is built in.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:25 PM   #52
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@strat61caster

I don't know if there is an intended deadband in that scenario (not an automotive engineer, sorry).
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Old 08-11-2020, 02:41 AM   #53
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Found this old thread while searching for improving the throttle response on the new-to-me 2013 BRZ with almost 99K miles.

I feel that the initial step in on the throttle is delayed and uncertain, making it harder to launch smoothly without over-revving it. But once you're going, ie. not going from zero throttle, everything is fine and throttle matching/blipping is easy. It's just that initial from zero to 20-30%.

I found this ancient article stating that the dealers have a fix by updating the ECU. Does this really fix/improve it? I haven't seen anything else on this, thinking maybe not as effective?

Thanks.

https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-fi...ngines-5948647
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Old 08-11-2020, 06:18 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by albert View Post
Found this old thread while searching for improving the throttle response on the new-to-me 2013 BRZ with almost 99K miles.

I feel that the initial step in on the throttle is delayed and uncertain, making it harder to launch smoothly without over-revving it. But once you're going, ie. not going from zero throttle, everything is fine and throttle matching/blipping is easy. It's just that initial from zero to 20-30%.

I found this ancient article stating that the dealers have a fix by updating the ECU. Does this really fix/improve it? I haven't seen anything else on this, thinking maybe not as effective?

Thanks.

https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-fi...ngines-5948647

Just grab a tune. It is worth it with that many miles. The stock car is most certainly tuned for emissions and gas mileage.
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Old 08-13-2020, 03:00 PM   #55
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Yup. From a process engineer's perspective:


when you get lucky and finally just get the tip in, do you immediately start banging your gf/wife/one night stand immediately at 100%?

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That depends entirely on *their* mood
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Old 08-19-2020, 02:04 PM   #56
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I'd like to add that a lighter crank pulley made a difference on my 2013.
Some people will swear it's a placebo effect, but I definitely felt better response when I had a Kartboy pulley installed (1lb vs. the stock 4lb), and noticed the immediate difference when I swapped back to the stock pulley before I returned my BRZ lease. As the FA20 is a boxer, it is safe to change this pulley (it doesn't affect any sort of dampening or counterbalancing).

I'd recommend a Perrin piece though, as the Kartboy produces a noticeable (but low) whine. And definitely see if you can get it used (just in case I'm wrong and it really was just a placebo effect).
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