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Old 04-01-2018, 08:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
Brake pads: are the OE pads sufficient for track use or should I get a different set and swap them in and out when I get to the track? If so, recommendations on pads for extended weekend use?

Fluid: should I leave the OE fluid in for my first weekend or flush with something like RBF600 right off the bat?

Hoses: standard OK or stainless braided a must?

Engine oil: I probably should've searched on this one, but to be honest, 0W20 scares the crap out of me. It looks like water when it's at room temperature; does it really protect the engine when it gets hot? Does anyone use a higher viscosity like 5W30? I'm coming from German cars which all use 0W40/5W40 so perhaps I'm just paranoid. I plan to change my oil after each lapping weekend; any reason not to?

Oil cooler: I've read elsewhere it's a must. So unless anyone tells me otherwise I'll probably be getting one. Is it possible to move the temp sensor somewhere before the cooler to get a more accurate temperature reading?

Tires: I've elected to go with Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R in the standard size. I work for Bridgestone and get a 50% employee discount so there is no better cost option other than the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 which is marginally cheaper at a 35% discount to me. I am wondering if it would be worthwhile to go to a 225/45R17 instead of a 215, however?

Wheels: I will use my stock Perf Pack wheels and might consider getting a second set of wheels to bring in case I wipe out a set of tires during a weekend or get a puncture. Enkei RPF1 seems like the best cost-to-weight ratio out there. Would it be worthwhile to get a wider wheel like 17x8" instead of 17x7"? I guess that may depend on whether I go with a 215 or 225 section tire, no?

Suspension: I'm trying to keep the car as close to stock as possible and focus on driver mod until I literally cannot go faster on the current setup, but are there any must-do's like camber bolts or something that would be inexpensive and improve the car's on-track character before I get comfortable with the stock setup? I was thinking of waiting until next year to do springs, sway bars/endlinks, camber bolts, and wheel spacers.

Safety: I had planned to get a fire extinguisher and mount it in front of the passenger seat. Any other basic safety equipment I should consider for the car?


Anything else I might be missing? Thanks everyone!
Considering you mention having 50 minute sessions, and that you already have some track experience, normal advice may not suffice for your usage case.

Brake pads: Winmax W5 or equivalent brake pad is where I would start. I personally find them a bit overkill for my application but I only have 30 minute sessions. Someone mentioned the GT brake ducts, get those if you find you are managing to get pad fade before you step up to something more aggressive.

Fluid: RBF600 is the minimum I'd consider for a track day. It's cheap and it will hold up fine for the track day but you'll have to perform a partial bleed after every event to restore a solid pedal which gets old fast. On the other end of the spectrum, the high end fluids will run $90/litre but you flush once at the beginning of the season and you're good until next year. I ran RBF600 my first 2 years doing track and switch to Castrol SRF React last year and was very impressed with it and I still daily drive on the original flush I did last year.

Hoses: As others have said, no need to waste money here.

Engine oil: The manual recommends using a 5W30 for extreme use. I run 5W30 during the summer and switch to 0W20 in the winter.

Oil cooler: Considering your use, I would definitely invest in one.

Tires: Considering the discounts available to you, your options are somewhat limited compared to others. Purely anecdotal but I'm on Hankook RS3 and a guy with a Nissan 350Z on RE71r passed me like I was standing still early in the session but I caught up to him and overtook him about 5 laps later after he overheated his tires. If you're chasing lap times, RE71r is unbeatable in it's class but if you want to build consistency, a more consistent tire might be better. Of course, running a tire like this will also teach you more about tire heat management which is an important skill in itself and is why I'm planning to run a tire like this when I finish off my RS3s which have helped me build some consistency.

Wheels: At this stage, sizing depends on what you plan to do with the car. If you just want to go on track and keep costs down, I think going for a 17x7 with 215/45 is a good idea. If you are going to do 86cup or SSC then a 17x8 with 225/45 is good. If you want to go as fast as possible or go STX, maybe get a 17x9 with 245/40 now so you don't need to get one later. Note that you can safely fit a 245/40 on a 17x8 wheel with a bit of pinch so you can still run that size of wheel and be competitive in STX although you may lose a bit of response and feel from the tire compared to running it on a 17x9.

A note about the PP Brembos: Most RPF1s won't fit over the Brembos, I think the 17x8 +45 is the only one that will IIRC. That said, they are such a popular wheel that I personally don't care to run them when there are compelling alternatives in the same weight/price category with better brake clearance like Konig Hypergram, 949 6UL, Apex Arc-8 and 720form GTF1 to name a few off the top of my head.

Suspension: As others have said, start with some camber bolts and get as much negative camber up front as you can but be aware that it's not going to be enough for even tire wear. Most people report needing at least -3f/-2r for even tire wear which isn't possible with bolts alone. You either need camber plates or lowering springs to reach -3 in the front. Most people get springs when the wheel gap starts killing them a little inside lol. Rear lower control arms will be required to adjust rear camber too. I'd vote to just get a set of rear control arms now along with the bolts so you can make those adjustments now and not have to worry about it later. I've used the SPC arms just fine for the last 3 years.

Safety: Go for it, additional safety is never a bad idea.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:47 AM   #30
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Thanks everyone so far for the really useful information! My first event is at Lime Rock on the 23rd; I plan to get track pads, Castrol SRF fluid, oil change to 5W30, front camber bolts and alignment, and go from there. This event shouldn't have as much track time so I'm hoping it'll hold together nicely until I need additional cooling, suspension tweaks, etc.

Just got a couple action cams too so I'll be recording my slow slow laps and see where I can improve later
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:22 PM   #31
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@CSG David and @CSG Mike,

I'd like to go with a set of Winmax pads, but given that this is the first set of dedicated track pads I've ever bought, I'm not sure which ones to go with. The W4/5 seem good but appear to cause more rotor wear, whereas the W6 seem like they operate in too high a temperature range for my needs. The W7 seems like the best but are also the most expensive. Any chance you could point me in the right direction? I can't imagine I'd need anything too crazy considering stock power output and I'm not operating the car in a full competition setting or doing endurance racing or anything like that.
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:24 PM   #32
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Great responses for you but there is one topic that I would like to address for you.
Although these engines were designed to 0w20 I would recommend to stay as far of it as you can if you plan to be anywhere near a race track.
My 2014 BRZ is a caged fully prepped time attack car and I personally use Liquid Molly 10W60 since my car gets 0 miles in the street. It is not street legal. I add Liquid Molly MoS2 engine treatment religiously at every oil change.
I have an engine oil pressure gauge and this oil is the only one that when it is really hot keeps it over 10 psi of engine oil pressure at idle.
Basics are basics not matter what. I could not care anything at all about the 0w20 mindset of oil usage or anything in between as I know very well how bearings wash out. I have tested 5W30 and 0W40 and they blow for hot oil pressure at idle.
I have thousands and thousand of really hard track miles in this motor and with this oil and additive, my engine is a happy one so... to each its own.
I do have a JR oil cooler and a KOYO radiator but I run NA with e85 tune and catless header with free flowing exhaust. I hope this helps you.
For the rest of the stuff you already have great advice.
I strongly suggest adjustable camber more than the offset bolts and also save yourself time and just bite the bullet and use Castrol SRF brake fluid which is simply the best.
Best lock to you!
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:22 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
@CSG David and @CSG Mike,

I'd like to go with a set of Winmax pads, but given that this is the first set of dedicated track pads I've ever bought, I'm not sure which ones to go with. The W4/5 seem good but appear to cause more rotor wear, whereas the W6 seem like they operate in too high a temperature range for my needs. The W7 seems like the best but are also the most expensive. Any chance you could point me in the right direction? I can't imagine I'd need anything too crazy considering stock power output and I'm not operating the car in a full competition setting or doing endurance racing or anything like that.
5 is the recommended starting point. This is based on the relatively easy transition to the W5's torque curve; the W6 and W4 is not as natural to someone who hasn't tried race pads.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:23 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBRZ View Post
Great responses for you but there is one topic that I would like to address for you.
Although these engines were designed to 0w20 I would recommend to stay as far of it as you can if you plan to be anywhere near a race track.
My 2014 BRZ is a caged fully prepped time attack car and I personally use Liquid Molly 10W60 since my car gets 0 miles in the street. It is not street legal. I add Liquid Molly MoS2 engine treatment religiously at every oil change.
I have an engine oil pressure gauge and this oil is the only one that when it is really hot keeps it over 10 psi of engine oil pressure at idle.
Basics are basics not matter what. I could not care anything at all about the 0w20 mindset of oil usage or anything in between as I know very well how bearings wash out. I have tested 5W30 and 0W40 and they blow for hot oil pressure at idle.
I have thousands and thousand of really hard track miles in this motor and with this oil and additive, my engine is a happy one so... to each its own.
I do have a JR oil cooler and a KOYO radiator but I run NA with e85 tune and catless header with free flowing exhaust. I hope this helps you.
For the rest of the stuff you already have great advice.
I strongly suggest adjustable camber more than the offset bolts and also save yourself time and just bite the bullet and use Castrol SRF brake fluid which is simply the best.
Best lock to you!
I've had zero issues running 0W20, with an increased redline. You don't need to band-aid insufficient oil cooling with thicker oil, if you have a good cooler like the Jackson Racing!
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Old 04-20-2018, 01:38 AM   #35
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This may have already been mentioned but Jackson Racing just released their new oil cooler and dual cooling rad and they now fit 2017+ as well. Check out their site.
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Old 04-21-2018, 11:49 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
5 is the recommended starting point. This is based on the relatively easy transition to the W5's torque curve; the W6 and W4 is not as natural to someone who hasn't tried race pads.
W5 it is! Placed my order; thank you! Thanks to those who suggested the GT3 brake ducts; found them dirt cheap on Amazon... hopefully they're the right ones.
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:44 PM   #37
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W5 it is! Placed my order; thank you! Thanks to those who suggested the GT3 brake ducts; found them dirt cheap on Amazon... hopefully they're the right ones.
Don't forget to get good brake fluid as well!
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Old 05-01-2018, 01:23 AM   #38
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GT3 brake ducts?

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911 GT3 front brake ducts that could be had for $30 from Suncoast
Care to elaborate?
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:51 PM   #39
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My 2cents with my limited experience.
Contact CSG_David of Counterspace Garage for recommendations based on your use case. Also contact your local 86Cup group and join

Brake pads: Winmax W5 minimum.
Brake fluid: Project Mu G-Four 335 Fluid
Hoses: OE brake lines OK
Engine oil: 0w-20 Motul 300V
Oil cooler: Required. Jackson Racing Oil Cooler
Tires: 225/45/17 GT Radial SX2. Not the stickiest tire, but gives consistent performance, lasts long and great learning tire.
Wheels: The stock PP wheels are good. Enkei RPF1 has weird fitment issues on the PP. I use OZ Ultraleggera 17x8 and has good clearance.
Suspension: Camber bolts ok. Keep the stock sway bars. No need for spacers unless needed for brake/wheel clearance
Safety: HANS

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Old 05-02-2018, 08:58 PM   #40
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Ok so this i probably another post for another time but, I installed the SPC rear control arms and front camber bolts. The rear arms allow for some ridiculous amt. of adjustment; roughly 5 degrees. The fromt camber bolts with the bottom OEM bolt swapped with the top bolt per suggestions nets a whopping 1.5 on the left and 1.1 on the right. Am I doing something wrong? I can theoretically get more front camber with two sets of the camber bolts because the physical diameter of the bolts are smaller, yes?
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Old 05-04-2018, 10:08 AM   #41
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Might also be a good idea to bring a spare ignition coil and engine code reader. I've had a CEL on track and ended up being a P351. Cyl 1 is the likely cultprit and can be done between sessions.
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Old 05-04-2018, 10:39 AM   #42
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Might also be a good idea to bring a spare ignition coil and engine code reader. I've had a CEL on track and ended up being a P351. Cyl 1 is the likely cultprit and can be done between sessions.
That doesn't happen on a 2017.
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