FA20CLUB Ultimate FR-S/BRZ Gauge Integration

[akuhei]

Originally Posted by Brody602

Just wondering if anyone can shed some light, for those who installed the lcd themselves, does lcd clamp into place somehow? Or is glueing required? If just clamps into place I think I'll save myself 60$ and do it myself.
@akuhei

Basically, inside the vent has 2 pieces, one that has 2 vent slots and one that is just one, which together create the 3 pieces you can use to angle and direct the heat/ac. They are just held in with a little pin on each side. so you remove the one that has 2 vent slots and put in the gauge. Its really simple and becomes apparent as soon as you pull the vent out and start to take it apart to put the gauge in. I would recommend doing it yourself, its a pretty easy mod to do.

[OICU812]

Just got mine today looks cool. No instructions on the wiring and so fourth, looks straight forward enough. Did anyone do a DIY for review before I climb into it to not miss anything? I always just like to look b4 doing anything is all. By looks being NA now only need to somehow connect the green wire for dimmer, but no clear indication as it has pre crimped tab on it as well as where to route from the vent tube assembly etc..

[Andy@FA20Club]

here is a diagram courtesy of a forum member

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Andy@FA20Club

here is a diagram courtesy of a forum member

None of those wires will work for the dimmer. I believe the only wire that you can use for the dimmer wire is the one going into the back of the stereo headunit. I tried using the wires near the dimmer switch with no success. @Sportsguy83 can probably confirm.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by King Tut

None of those wires will work for the dimmer. I believe the only wire that you can use for the dimmer wire is the one going into the back of the stereo headunit. I tried using the wires near the dimmer switch with no success. @Sportsguy83 can probably confirm.

Yes, if the gauge is looking for a 12V input, the ILL + (or I'LL- depending on what the gauge wants) should work for dimming. Although IIRC, @Foobar tried it for the P3 gauge with no success.

If this post has mistakes, blame Autocorrect

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Yes, if the gauge is looking for a 12V input, the ILL + (or I'LL- depending on what the gauge wants) should work for dimming. Although IIRC, @Foobar tried it for the P3 gauge with no success.

If this post has mistakes, blame Autocorrect

The P3 gauge dimming function isn't a variable dimmer, so you won't want to connect it to any of the ILL wires. It's basically senses a 12 volt input, on or off. If on, it will go into a pre-defined static dimmed setting. If off, it will remain in full bright setting.

This being the case, if you connect the green P3 wire to some wire that gets power when your lights are on, you'll be good to go. In Andy's illustration above, the pink parking light wire would do it. Note that that bundle is a pain in the ass to work with given the tight confines and shielding around everything. You'll most likely have to strip some shielding to free up the wires, or get to it from the other side of that harness, towards the firewall.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Foobar

The P3 gauge dimming function isn't a variable dimmer, so you won't want to connect it to any of the ILL wires. It's basically senses a 12 volt input, on or off. If on, it will go into a pre-defined static dimmed setting. If off, it will remain in full bright setting.

This being the case, if you connect the green P3 wire to some wire that gets power when your lights are on, you'll be good to go.

The ILL wire from the radio is 12V ON-OFF, non adjustable.

The ones that do not work because of the above are the ones from the car dimming switch.

That being said you are correct, any wire that has 12V when lights are on will work.

If this post has mistakes, blame Autocorrect

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Foobar

The P3 gauge dimming function isn't a variable dimmer, so you won't want to connect it to any of the ILL wires. It's basically senses a 12 volt input, on or off. If on, it will go into a pre-defined static dimmed setting. If off, it will remain in full bright setting.

This being the case, if you connect the green P3 wire to some wire that gets power when your lights are on, you'll be good to go. In Andy's illustration above, the pink parking light wire would do it. Note that that bundle is a pain in the ass to work with given the tight confines and shielding around everything. You'll most likely have to strip some shielding to free up the wires, or get to it from the other side of that harness, towards the firewall.

I stand corrected. Thanks.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

The ILL wire from the radio is 12V ON-OFF, non adjustable.

The ones that do not work because of the above are the ones from the car dimming switch.

If this post has mistakes, blame Autocorrect

Ah good to know - that should work then. For some reason I thought that the headunit had variable dimming lights.

[ecko04]

Originally Posted by King Tut

None of those wires will work for the dimmer. I believe the only wire that you can use for the dimmer wire is the one going into the back of the stereo headunit. I tried using the wires near the dimmer switch with no success. @Sportsguy83 can probably confirm.

Copied from the other P3Cars thread

Auto-Dimming

I didn't get a chance to tidy up my install but essentially the wire I labeled as the positive (+) trigger parking lights is where you want to tap into (i.e. military splice) with the green wire from the P3Cars gauge.

Once done, go into the gauge configuration settings and change the dimmer setting to "On.A" then hold the right button to save the option (you gauge will then reset).

Now when you turn on the lights, or your lights come on automatically, the gauge will dim.



Bright



Dim



Video showing the transition between bright and dim

View P3Cars Gauge Video