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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 08-31-2018, 02:04 PM   #57
Leonardo
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Originally Posted by chaoskaze View Post
This, I can probably buy some BCs at $400-500 dollar range on alibaba if i order more then 10 sets at once.
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Old 08-31-2018, 03:07 PM   #58
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This, I can probably buy some BCs at $400-500 dollar range on alibaba if i order more then 10 sets at once.
Well your going to need all 10 sets to piece together a decent set that will actually work.
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Old 08-31-2018, 03:14 PM   #59
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And to select better ones from those ten sets one will need shock dyno them.
.. wait. Isn't it supposed to be dirt cheap?!
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:05 PM   #60
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He fucked up buying such an inferior product. The fact that people can point at anything else blows my mind.
/
So you’re still saying him not aligning it and having t set up isn’t the problem, keep ignoring the fact that if OP bought $5k coilovers his car would still drive like a bag of ****s. You can say the product is inferior all you want but that IS NOT the root of the problem here the root of the problem is OP not aligning his car and having the pre load set.
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:16 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Captain Snooze View Post
I have MCA Reds on my car but would not recommend them on this forum except for in the Australia sub-forum.
Why? Because in the States there a gazillion options running from $200 junk items to 10k+ racing dampers with local support. Yeah, that last part. Local support. Last time I spoke to Josh they still hadn't organised a distributor/service center for MCAs in the States and as I've said before you won't appreciate local service until you need it. I mean seriously, why would anyone in the States want to send their dampers back to Aus to get serviced?


/rant.
I generally throw my old coils away and buy a new set if required, I understand there is a requirement for rebuilding in some circles though.

It's just something I wouldn't worry about personally, I actually cannot recall anyone who has had their coil rebuilt.
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:22 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evomike View Post
So you’re still saying him not aligning it and having t set up isn’t the problem, keep ignoring the fact that if OP bought $5k coilovers his car would still drive like a bag of ****s. You can say the product is inferior all you want but that IS NOT the root of the problem here the root of the problem is OP not aligning his car and having the pre load set.


Not setting pre preload only matters if there's enough droop in the suspension to unseat the spring. Even then it won't affect anything until you go to full droop. It certainly will not affect the bounciness of the ride during normal driving. Not aligning it will shred the tires and the car won't drive straight/handle well, but again it would have very little to do with the ride comfort. The car drives like shit because BCs are known to ride like shit. They're known for too high (for street driving) spring rates and crappy damper cartridges. That's a perfect recipe for a crappy ride.
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:42 PM   #63
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AGAIN.....

GO BACK AND READ WHAT THE OP DID. FFS

It wasn't typical messed up preload on all four corners.
He had completely fucked up the preload in a single coilover.
He essentially has ZERO compression in the right rear, which would 100% make it bounce and ride like shit.

My dipshit friend did the same on his miata. It too rode exactly like the OP said his car did.

#ENDTHREAD



EDIT:
Here, I'll make it easy.....
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Originally Posted by Lakitu View Post
I think I've found the issue... there's a 1" gap between each spring coil on the driver rear coilover, but every other coilover has about 2" between each spring coil.
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Old 08-31-2018, 09:16 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo View Post
Not setting pre preload only matters if there's enough droop in the suspension to unseat the spring. Even then it won't affect anything until you go to full droop. It certainly will not affect the bounciness of the ride during normal driving. Not aligning it will shred the tires and the car won't drive straight/handle well, but again it would have very little to do with the ride comfort. The car drives like shit because BCs are known to ride like shit. They're known for too high (for street driving) spring rates and crappy damper cartridges. That's a perfect recipe for a crappy ride.
Nah dog it rides like shit because he fucked up preload and didn’t align the car, but I get it reading is hard.
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Old 08-31-2018, 09:29 PM   #65
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Suggestions on suspension upgrade over BC

Quote:
Originally Posted by x808drifter View Post
AGAIN.....

EDIT:
Here, I'll make it easy.....


Oh shoot! I totally read that as 'my coilovers have a different gap between the coils than other brands.'

My bad. I thought well sure, but the number of coils in the spring being different shouldn't make it ride like shit.

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Nah dog it rides like shit because he fucked up preload and didn’t align the car, but I get it reading is hard.

Dude, reading is hard apparently.

*bonk* 🤣
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Old 09-01-2018, 11:42 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evomike
So you’re still saying him not aligning it and having t set up isn’t the problem, keep ignoring the fact that if OP bought $5k coilovers his car would still drive like a bag of ****s. You can say the product is inferior all you want but that IS NOT the root of the problem here the root of the problem is OP not aligning his car and having the pre load set.

I call BS on that. Should he have had it aligned after a few days, absolutely, but that's not going to fix the ride quality.



Proof? I put my KW V3's in with them set to the height I wanted based on the recommended highest height in the manual (highest recommended setting is 20mm lower than stock, I wanted 25mm lower rear and 28mm lower front), I also put in different camber bolts than before (SPC lower, stock lower bolts in the upper holes). I drove it for a couple weeks to let the springs settle (my commute is ~7kms, all city, wasn't worried about tire wear or anything).


After settling I set the ride height (with my weight in the car), two corners were out more than 1/4". Corrected that, went for an alignment. RF was at -3.8*, LF was at -2.7*, toe was all over the place both front and rear.


I knew the alignment was off, but the car was absolutely NOT bouncy or jarring, and wasn't pulling all over the place over bumps. Would I track it or drive it hard like it was, no, but it tracked straight on the street and at 60% of the limit you'd never know it was that poorly aligned.
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Old 09-01-2018, 12:48 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
I call BS on that. Should he have had it aligned after a few days, absolutely, but that's not going to fix the ride quality.



Proof? I put my KW V3's in with them set to the height I wanted based on the recommended highest height in the manual (highest recommended setting is 20mm lower than stock, I wanted 25mm lower rear and 28mm lower front), I also put in different camber bolts than before (SPC lower, stock lower bolts in the upper holes). I drove it for a couple weeks to let the springs settle (my commute is ~7kms, all city, wasn't worried about tire wear or anything).


After settling I set the ride height (with my weight in the car), two corners were out more than 1/4". Corrected that, went for an alignment. RF was at -3.8*, LF was at -2.7*, toe was all over the place both front and rear.


I knew the alignment was off, but the car was absolutely NOT bouncy or jarring, and wasn't pulling all over the place over bumps. Would I track it or drive it hard like it was, no, but it tracked straight on the street and at 60% of the limit you'd never know it was that poorly aligned.
There is no way your car tracked straight with those specs
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Old 09-01-2018, 03:50 PM   #68
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There is no way your car tracked straight with those specs
I've had terrible alignments that were downright dangerous when driven hard feel fine on the freeway and around town.

#diylife

Doing a full coilover install on this car doesn't really affect the alignment on this car, it'll still be within spec in my experience. Adding camber bolts, control arms, camber plates etc will affect it, but for the bcs that would just throw off front camber. If it's a degree off, sure, you'll have to go down the street with the wheel at 5 degrees (I had a camber plate slip on the freeway two years ago after hitting a bump) but it had literally zero impact on "ride quality"
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Old 09-01-2018, 06:23 PM   #69
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There is no way your car tracked straight with those specs

Sorry, but you're wrong. Toe was all over the place too, along with the steer ahead.
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Old 09-01-2018, 06:37 PM   #70
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It would be nice if the OP had the BC's setup and aligned, then post his view on them.
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