Unofficial - CEL/SL/Idle Issue List for FR-S/BRZ Owners

[speedy racer]

Put my 2013 Scion FRs on the catastrophic engine failure list, I just had $11,600 worth work done under my Toyota 7 year/100k extended warranty. The problem was determined to be due to loss of oil pressure causing no.3 rod bearing to turn and fall apart. The metal from the rod bearing mixed in with the oil and was carried out thru the engine. They replaced the short block, ECU, VVT, values, lifters and both cylinder heads. The cause of my engine failing was due to the VVT gears stuck causing timing to over advance.

[W-GT86]

Originally Posted by ermax

The OCVs are always in use. Unless by “not used much” you mean you don’t use the actual car much. Everything related to VVT on this car is a ticking time bomb it seems. I feel like there is a new thread or post daily on VVT related CELs. I’ve got 85k on my car and feel like any day I’ll be in the same boat of replacing cam angle sensors, OCVs, gears and ECU. Seems in the end people have to replace the gears and ECU before their problems permanently go away.

Correct, the car was not used much by a the former owner and I also had no time to drive the car as well. But now I can drive it with a safer feeling as the failure was bothering me quite some time!

Got some other project cars and bikes which are taking a lot of time.

[max20s14]

This thread makes me very paranoid

[SLVRSRFR]

Finally got my most recent CEL scanned, the one that has been coming on and off for months now, seemingly at random.

Code is P0351, which seems to be Ignition Coil Pack related.

Just came back from an 800km round-trip to my cottage and the car performed totally normal, but the light seems to come on only during sustained highway driving. For instance, on the way there, the light came on after only about 5 minutes of sustained highway-speed driving on the highway (only about half an hour into my drive), and remained on for the remainder of my 5-hour drive to my destination. It turned itself off one day during the week when I went into town to get groceries after the car hadn't been driven for 4 days. When I left the cottage yesterday, however, the light didn't come back on until, once again, 5 minutes after I got on the highway (which is near the tail-end of the 5 hour drive). So it seems to be triggered by sustained driving at highway speeds.

Has anyone had any experience with P0351 and have any advice? Obviously changing the coil pack is step one, but I've heard this may be yet another "deeper" issue that this platform experiences, so I just want to see if anyone has had any nightmares with this, or if replacing the coil-pack will solve the issue once and for all.

Cheers!

[davidsn_670]

2015 FRS 24,000 miles, bought with only 7 miles. Code P000A comes on, and I clear it by disconnecting the battery for at least 2-3 hours. Doing this makes it come back within a year. Using a scan tool to clear it makes it come back within minutes or up to a week. Sounds like I need an ECU flash or a new one with the updated logic gate but whatevs. This year I finally switched OCV on the same head to see if it'll transfer and become a P000B. I know clearing it won't fix it but for my issue, seems not bad of a hassle. Just wanted to share is all.

[BrightSlide]

Anyone tuned on ecutek with turbo experiencing this issue?

[BrightSlide]

Also how many people actually had improvement in the condition from shining the sensors alone?
Those who have swapped the ECU’s or reflashed, how do you figure out to swap the proper ecu into your car is it just matching year and transmission or are there codes i can find, if so where/how?
As far as reflashing does ecutek have the software and can i load it that way or do i need to visit a dealer and pay them for the flash?

[DJ_JAZZY_DJENT]

just sent to my noho toyota guy. should I send the attachments to him also?

Hi Peter,
I received your voicemail. I will call you when I am available, Few questions I had regarding this tear-down.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15577

Where did the number $2900 come from? can I have a breakdown of that?
and if I have to pay that, can I get my car back and setup payments when its finished or does it need to be payed up front.

Also, with the wiring, issues we discussed and the latest TSB's for ECU etc.. How did the idea of the tear-down come so quickly?

I would like to speak with a toyota rep before signing off.


Thanks so much for your help.

[xxthrillxx]

Just wanted to chime on this thread.

I have a MY13 BRZ about 67k... got it used, pretty cheap

has p0014+p000b code.

followed the TSBs posted in the sticky:

Purchased new OCV and replaced old one on bank1 exh: code persisted

Swapped OCV to opposite position, ran Test Mode B: code persisted

Purchased new CAM Sprocket for exh bank1, replaced old: code persisted

ran OFT to clear codes, loaded a stage 1 tune (for s$%ts and giggles): code persisted

flashed back to original: code still comes up

I am running RP 0w20, not sure if maybe this is the cause... was going to go this route prior to hunting down a new ECU.

anyone have any new developments on these codes? really annoying

[BRianZ 14]

2014 BRZ 34k miles, P0018. Current progress is OCV replaced, code came back, they put in another OCV, no change, so new ECU ordered.

[Planebuilder]

I'm not sure if this is causing the CEL lights and the rough idle and stalling at Idle, but I have found a design flaw in the Clutch boot seal. The bell housing of these cars has a vacuum port to equalize pressure across the rear main oil seal. Last week when I pushed the clutch in, my car stalled. I immediately suspected this was the problem because I had a similar issue on an old 280Z. The design of the boot is such that they really have a flapper or reed valve. I cannot see how this could ever seal from day one from the factory. my engine was running rough and when I sealed the hole (about .5"/sq) the engine idled perfectly. I think this may be one of the root causes for the CEL lights. I am looking for a better aftermarket design, but cant find one. I ordered a factory boot and will use some RTV to bond the flap to the fork. Very bad design. I would have created a "U" shaped channel out of the boot and slipped it over the fork. Pressure would have sealed it in operation

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by xxthrillxx

Just wanted to chime on this thread.



I have a MY13 BRZ about 67k... got it used, pretty cheap



has p0014+p000b code.



followed the TSBs posted in the sticky:



Purchased new OCV and replaced old one on bank1 exh: code persisted



Swapped OCV to opposite position, ran Test Mode B: code persisted



Purchased new CAM Sprocket for exh bank1, replaced old: code persisted



ran OFT to clear codes, loaded a stage 1 tune (for s$%ts and giggles): code persisted



flashed back to original: code still comes up



I am running RP 0w20, not sure if maybe this is the cause... was going to go this route prior to hunting down a new ECU.



anyone have any new developments on these codes? really annoying

Not the exact codes but I had P0016. I replaced/swapped Camshaft sensors and OCVs and Cam sprockets and chains. Nothing did it. In the end I replaced the ECU and everything went away.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[N1rve]

So I just had P0018 code. 63,000 miles and 3 months out of warranty. Initially swapped the Camshaft sensors and OCVs and did nothing. Took it to Toyota -- they had to replace the ECU and replaced the cam sprocket. Sensor was still good in fact. Had to pay 1300 in labor, Toyota was willing to cover parts.

In order to replace the cam sprocket, they took off the timing chain cover and I see the glue spewing past it. Concerned about them adding too much and ending up with a self destructing FA20 just like the people with the valve spring job O_O.

[Marrk]

@ N1rve: That sucks. Sorry this happened to you.

Which dealer?