08-05-2015, 03:31 PM | #2073 |
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Will change the batteries in one FOB myself and see what happens. I hope it does the trick as I hate dropping off the car for service with an intermittent problem...
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08-05-2015, 09:41 PM | #2074 |
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So you can use that weird miniature key in the fob to open the trunk and driver's side door but if the fob's battery is dead how do you start the car?
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08-06-2015, 01:20 AM | #2075 |
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Push the Start button? It runs off the car battery so is independent of the fob battery unless there's some sort of fob transponder code needed to begin the start sequence. Easy enough to test.
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08-06-2015, 06:59 AM | #2076 | |
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Quote:
If you take out the battery from the fob there should be a RFID (in the fob) that the car detects to get it started? So as long as your car has power and a working RFID scanner you're set to go. I'll try it out the weekend. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dnieves For This Useful Post: | NepeanFR-S (08-06-2015) |
08-26-2015, 02:21 AM | #2077 |
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Picked up #2346 last week. 4,500miles. Phoenix AZ
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to alexjandro For This Useful Post: | funwheeldrive (08-26-2015), torqdork (08-26-2015) |
08-26-2015, 02:43 AM | #2078 |
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08-26-2015, 02:43 AM | #2079 |
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08-26-2015, 01:47 PM | #2080 |
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Nice clean example, congrats! Really interesting pic, too.
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08-26-2015, 04:16 PM | #2081 |
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So it's been two years since majority of us has owned a 10Series. How have they been treating you (ex. any issues, faults, problems) ? Post mods of your 10Series as well
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08-26-2015, 05:59 PM | #2082 |
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My experience with the 10 Series has been great. The only problem I had was the slightly leaky cam plate (such an easy fix -I'd recommend it as a preventative measure for any manual twin leaking or not!).
Ownership has been so incident free I can see why so many people here let their OCD get the better of them and nit pick the dumbest things. It still turns heads and I'd buy it again (except not from Atlantic Toyota!!!!). |
08-26-2015, 06:29 PM | #2083 |
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I might be the only one with this but my front and rear LED emblems have stopped lighting up. Not sure if it has to do with the -40 to -50 degC that I had the car in last winter.
I'm just glad the LEDs in the headlamps and tail lights are able to withstand such cold.
__________________
SC10N FR-S #435 of 2500
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08-26-2015, 06:38 PM | #2084 | |
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Quote:
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08-26-2015, 10:15 PM | #2085 | |
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Quote:
Check the fuse to see if it's intact then take a voltmeter and check the wiring harness leading to the module, check to see if there's power coming out of the control module (could be bad), if that checks out then the wiring to the badge (or the badge itself) is the culprit. I just re-read your post. I'd check: the fuse, wiring harness to control module, and control module itself. Last edited by dnieves; 08-26-2015 at 10:25 PM. |
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08-27-2015, 02:34 AM | #2086 |
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Can someone tell me how the electroluminescent should be working?
I bought the 10-series new from a dealer but came with broken el dash. I took the car to a dealer and its been more than 3week but they still have not figure out to fix it. They ordered second computer or something (can't remember exactly which it was) but it will take a while for it to arrive so they told me to take the car until parts arrive. Anyways, I noticed the el dash lighting up but only when I turn on the engine. I thought it should light up when door is open/closed and also when on/off switch is toggled? |
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