Re-evaluating 0w20

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

At 212f, the difference between a 20 and a 30 is pretty small. At that temp they're both "piss".

How about at 275?

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

How about at 275?

-Mike Paisan

At 275 the right oil turns from piss into wine.

edit You know, after further thought, I probably shouldn't post when I've been drinking.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

At 275 the right oil turns from piss into wine.

Excellent, I was actually in the wine region of the finger lakes at the time. Motul 300V @ 275 hopefully went to red wine!



-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

Excellent, I was actually in the wine region of the finger lakes at the time. Motul 300V @ 275 hopefully went to red wine!



-Mike Paisan

It's on you to try the first batch. Straight off the drain valve, like a real man!



p.s., don't do that.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

It's on you to try the first batch. Straight off the drain valve, like a real man!



p.s., don't do that.

I shall put my lips up to the drain valve and test it out. Shall I save a batch for you? hee hee.

In all seriousness I am planning on putting together an oil cooler setup for it because 275 imo is a bit high.

-mike

[regal]

[quote]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

How about at 275?

There is also some issue where the AVC clicks-on and can cause an abrupt drop in oil pressure, does anyone have more info on that and would a heavier grade helpr or hurt?


The problem is so few have installed oil pressure gauges. I have all the parts to do it just not the energy at the moment. There were rumors that a mod here saw drastic oil pressure drop at high rpms, but that info is scarce.


I wish someone could shed some light on those two issues?

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

From Motul 0w30 xlite to motul 5w30 eco energy I looked at the specs and think it's a little thinner than the 0w30 don't remember

Sent from my SM-N900A using Tapatalk

Eco-nergy is thinner at operating temp than X-lite, and is a thin 5W-30, but it has one of the highest HTHS viscosities for an oil that doesn't meet ACEA A3 and Euro builder specs. It's 3.4, so it's lower than X-Lite but still higher than most off the shelf Resource Conserving GF5 oils. I ran it one winter in my Forester XT and it did stay in grade for a 6k-ish interval, IIRC.

-Dennis

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Eco-nergy is thinner at operating temp than X-lite, and is a thin 5W-30, but it has one of the highest HTHS viscosities for an oil that doesn't meet ACEA A3 and Euro builder specs. It's 3.4, so it's lower than X-Lite but still higher than most off the shelf Resource Conserving GF5 oils. I ran it one winter in my Forester XT and it did stay in grade for a 6k-ish interval, IIRC.

-Dennis

Thanks for the info Dennis, helpful as usual.

[regal]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Eco-nergy is thinner at operating temp than X-lite, and is a thin 5W-30, but it has one of the highest HTHS viscosities for an oil that doesn't meet ACEA A3 and Euro builder specs. It's 3.4, so it's lower than X-Lite but still higher than most off the shelf Resource Conserving GF5 oils. I ran it one winter in my Forester XT and it did stay in grade for a 6k-ish interval, IIRC.

-Dennis

Those oils just don't impress call me old school but for the price little moly & ZDDP and they dom't make claims of new tech protection like Sustana. And they are pricey. I better thicker oil IMHO is the catterham blend with is super high VI and advanced moly (with a half quart 0w30 mobile1 racing oil.) But I'm not convinced thus far from this thread that we need to go thicker, my engine is running great with the high moly 0w20 Mazda GL5 and since updating the calibration no more vvt noise.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by regal

Those oils just don't impress call me old school but for the price little moly & ZDDP and they dom't make claims of new tech protection like Sustana. And they are pricey. I better thicker oil IMHO is the catterham blend with is super high VI and advanced moly (with a half quart 0w30 mobile1 racing oil.) But I'm not convinced thus far from this thread that we need to go thicker, my engine is running great with the high moly 0w20 Mazda GL5 and since updating the calibration no more vvt noise.

Wow, sounds like you're trying to judge how good an oil is based only on the metallic additives that show up in a $30 used oil analysis. I wouldn't be surprised if there are some esters used in Eco-nergy since they use them in the Eco-lite 0W-20.

In a performance car, I'll take a lower NOACK over a higher VI any day.

Take the new Pennzoil Platinum PP:
0W-20: VI = 168 and NOACK = 10.8
5W-20: VI = 158 and NOACK = 8.6

In all likelihood, the 5W-20 will maintain its viscosity better than the 0W-20 because it has fewer viscosity modifiers to begin (more stable base oil). For API/ILSAC certified oils, you're probably not going to do better than an 8.6 NOACK. That's approaching Red Line 5W-20 (NOACK = 8).

-Dennis

[viscositosis.rex]

The only reason caterham adds any M1 0W40 to Sustina 0W20 is to obtain adequate oil pressure. The word "thickness" is best used to describe people's skulls. Now there is talk of TGMO having a measured VI of 236. Would Wearcheck please measure the VI of Sustina 0W20 side-by-side with TGMO. Use identical testing procedures under identical conditions, and do it blind. Until then I say bull hockey to the idea of TGMO being superior to and/or lighter than Sustina, with its VI of a paltry 229. Open up bottles of TGMO and Sustina and rub them between your fingers. Drive for more than a few miles on each oil, like I have, then try and tell me that TGMO is lighter than Sustina. So much for the scientific method.

[Dezoris]

At this point if you have an NA car I see absolutely zero reason at this point to switch from 0w20.

Now that I am on my second Supercharged UOA on Redline with 6700 (winter and pre-summer) miles which included track and autox time unless you have a turbo or your car is a dedicated track machine, appears 0w20 is the oil to use.

The only gotcha here is you should absolutely run an oil cooler for any track time. But until someone else shows any quality proof I don't see any reason to run a 0w30/5w30.


Redline 0w20 | 6700 Miles on Sample
2 Hours Track Time, 50 Autox Runs | 2000 Mile Road Trip
RESULTS: VERY GOOD
POTENTIAL: Running 10,000 Miles in between changes

[Reaper]

Anyone else on E85? Ill send mine in as soon as I get my car back.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

At 212f, the difference between a 20 and a 30 is pretty small. At that temp they're both "piss".

Also want to add, my car has seen oil temps 265F when it was completely stock powered (at 55F ambient temps) so I am glad I have been running 0w-40 European formula