Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[kev0]

Originally Posted by tzbang

Hey guys. I finished my install tonight and flashed the computer with Xero-Limit tune. I've feel I've been fairly meticulous doing the install to do things properly. But the car won't start.. it cranks, fires once and then dies immediately.

• Car is still jacked up at the front but that shouldn't matter.
• I moved the intercooler reservoir but that shouldn't matter.
• I installed my own closed catch-can setup on the PVC side only. That shouldn't matter.
• Got a B14A1 error code - Open in Solar Sensor Circuit for AC unit which appears to be a common non-issue

Any idea what might be the problem?

Did you email your tuner to let him know? Did you try giving it a little gas to keep it from dying?

I had the same issue too, my tuner just sent me a revised tune and it cleared it up.

[tzbang]

Originally Posted by kev0

Did you email your tuner to let him know? Did you try giving it a little gas to keep it from dying?

I had the same issue too, my tuner just sent me a revised tune and it cleared it up.

Thanks Kev0. I was hoping to solve it before I bothered Mike. I know he gets a lot of troubleshooting and 9-10 times it's user error. I noticed a few posts reporting similar problems. So I unplugged the MAF sensor and it started up fine. I then turned it off, plugged in the MAF and tried again. It started.. but idled really really horrid. Perhaps the MAF needs a spray clean?? I mean it was fine before but I did have the airbox sitting on my garage bench for a month maybe it gathered dust?? Seems unlikely. Maybe I need to bother Mike after all...

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by tzbang

Thanks Kev0. I was hoping to solve it before I bothered Mike. I know he gets a lot of troubleshooting and 9-10 times it's user error. I noticed a few posts reporting similar problems. So I unplugged the MAF sensor and it started up fine. I then turned it off, plugged in the MAF and tried again. It started.. but idled really really horrid. Perhaps the MAF needs a spray clean?? I mean it was fine before but I did have the airbox sitting on my garage bench for a month maybe it gathered dust?? Seems unlikely. Maybe I need to bother Mike after all...

Do you have stock injectors and pump?
Clean your maf, double check all connections, grounds, and hose clamps.

Then if it still persists hit up mike with your problems and your findings from troubleshooting, if it starts fine without MAF that is info i am sure will help him resolve the issue if its tune related.

[tzbang]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Do you have stock injectors and pump?
Clean your maf, double check all connections, grounds, and hose clamps.

Then if it still persists hit up mike with your problems and your findings from troubleshooting, if it starts fine without MAF that is info i am sure will help him resolve the issue if its tune related.

Yeah stock inj and pump, OEM Maf. All my connections seem good, hose clamps seem good. I didn't change/add any grounds except the intercooler pump. Oh I did swap the lower injector computer bolt for a stud as that was such a B!*@# to get in. But that wouldn't make any difference.

I'll see what Mike says. Might as well clean the MAF just in case it's that.

[kev0]

Originally Posted by tzbang

Yeah stock inj and pump, OEM Maf. All my connections seem good, hose clamps seem good. I didn't change/add any grounds except the intercooler pump. Oh I did swap the lower injector computer bolt for a stud as that was such a B!*@# to get in. But that wouldn't make any difference.

I'll see what Mike says. Might as well clean the MAF just in case it's that.

Can the stud act as a ground? The bottom bolt on the injector is extremely crucial as it is a ground. There is a lot of info on this. You need to put that original bolt back in before you start diagnosing your problems.

[tzbang]

Originally Posted by kev0

Can the stud act as a ground? The bottom bolt on the injector is extremely crucial as it is a ground. There is a lot of info on this. You need to put that original bolt back in before you start diagnosing your problems.

Really? Ok I'll do that. It ran fine without the MAF connected though.

I thought I was being clever replacing the bolt with a stud!

[kev0]

Originally Posted by tzbang

Really? Ok I'll do that. It ran fine without the MAF connected though.

I thought I was being clever replacing the bolt with a stud!

Put the original bolt back in and start it up. Report back with any changes. It has to be on tight.

[tzbang]

Ok I’ve done that and yeah it made a difference. Lol here I was thinking I was clever replacing that lower bolt with a stud! Why did they do it like that!

Anyway, it started up and ran fine.. for a few minutes then died. Then didnt really want to start again. Managed to get it to start and nursed it with the accelerator for a moment but then it died again and wouldn’t run.

I cleaned the MAF sensor and put it back in. Car started up and ran again nice.. then died. It’s like it doesn’t mind starting when it’s cooled down but as soon as it get warm after a minute it does the same thing. It idles at about 1200rpm for about half a minute, then the revs go up momentarily to about 1700rpm and then it dies and doesn’t want to start again until it sits for a while.

So it seems like I have another / different issue to figure out.

Edit: I'm wondering if the fact it runs on the start up loop.. maybe I have a port injection leak. So when it warms up after about 30sec and switches to port inj it leaks and dies?

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by tzbang

Ok I’ve done that and yeah it made a difference. Lol here I was thinking I was clever replacing that lower bolt with a stud! Why did they do it like that!

Anyway, it started up and ran fine.. for a few minutes then died. Then didnt really want to start again. Managed to get it to start and nursed it with the accelerator for a moment but then it died again and wouldn’t run.

I cleaned the MAF sensor and put it back in. Car started up and ran again nice.. then died. It’s like it doesn’t mind starting when it’s cooled down but as soon as it get warm after a minute it does the same thing. It idles at about 1200rpm for about half a minute, then the revs go up momentarily to about 1700rpm and then it dies and doesn’t want to start again until it sits for a while.

So it seems like I have another / different issue to figure out.

Edit: I'm wondering if the fact it runs on the start up loop.. maybe I have a port injection leak. So when it warms up after about 30sec and switches to port inj it leaks and dies?

Pull a log and post it up on data.zap. alot of members know how to tune these cars.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[kev0]

Originally Posted by tzbang

Ok I’ve done that and yeah it made a difference. Lol here I was thinking I was clever replacing that lower bolt with a stud! Why did they do it like that!

Anyway, it started up and ran fine.. for a few minutes then died. Then didnt really want to start again. Managed to get it to start and nursed it with the accelerator for a moment but then it died again and wouldn’t run.

I cleaned the MAF sensor and put it back in. Car started up and ran again nice.. then died. It’s like it doesn’t mind starting when it’s cooled down but as soon as it get warm after a minute it does the same thing. It idles at about 1200rpm for about half a minute, then the revs go up momentarily to about 1700rpm and then it dies and doesn’t want to start again until it sits for a while.

So it seems like I have another / different issue to figure out.

Edit: I'm wondering if the fact it runs on the start up loop.. maybe I have a port injection leak. So when it warms up after about 30sec and switches to port inj it leaks and dies?

Ask Mike to make you a map that makes it run on DI 100% of the time. Just to rule out the PI leak, though. Wouldn't recommend driving on it long. Weird how this only started happening after the SC install though. Maybe you damaged the injectors during installation?

[jflogerzi]

Thoughts guys. Starting about few months ago my car starting to at idle and no throttle will max STFT positive and eventually maxes out LTFT. During normal driving FTs will fall back to normal. Based on reading I have a vacuum leak somewhere. What and where should I look. Also could this be caused by the SC itself if the seals are starting to go? My unit does leak a bit of SC oil under high loads.

Otherwise it seems to drive fine. Can't tell if I have lost a bit of power since I got the SC Installed. Boost is still there for sure just may not pull as hard or I am just used to it now

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[kev0]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Thoughts guys. Starting about few months ago my car starting to at idle and no throttle will max STFT positive and eventually maxes out LTFT. During normal driving FTs will fall back to normal. Based on reading I have a vacuum leak somewhere. What and where should I look. Also could this be caused by the SC itself if the seals are starting to go? My unit does leak a bit of SC oil under high loads.

Otherwise it seems to drive fine. Can't tell if I have lost a bit of power since I got the SC Installed. Boost is still there for sure just may not pull as hard or I am just used to it now

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

I'm still going through this issue. Lean AF during cold start, until car warms up. Trims are normal with throttle.

Replacing my bypass actuator next week to see if it fixes the issue.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by kev0

I'm still going through this issue. Lean AF during cold start, until car warms up. Trims are normal with throttle.



Replacing my bypass actuator next week to see if it fixes the issue.

Keep me posted on this. Have you done a smoke test yet to see if you have any leaks?

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Thoughts guys. Starting about few months ago my car starting to at idle and no throttle will max STFT positive and eventually maxes out LTFT. During normal driving FTs will fall back to normal. Based on reading I have a vacuum leak somewhere. What and where should I look. Also could this be caused by the SC itself if the seals are starting to go? My unit does leak a bit of SC oil under high loads.

Otherwise it seems to drive fine. Can't tell if I have lost a bit of power since I got the SC Installed. Boost is still there for sure just may not pull as hard or I am just used to it now

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

Do you have a boost gauge? If you have a vacuum leak at idle post blower it would turn into a boost leak under loads great enough to create boost. A common failure is the recirculation valve, or the plastic fittings have known to fail overtime http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1362857.
First i would clean maf, and double check all fittings on intake cold weather makes things shrink and worm clamps don't shrink with changes like spring clamps. could always try spraying some brake cleaner or do a smoke test to find a leak.