Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by MGPAX

As I said in my original post. I am trying to figure out how it is that the batteries are lasting any time at all.

Not that you guys are doing something wrong....just that my experience tells me that the batteries should not last long at all.....

so much for my experience huh?

Pax

Hey Pax,

P=IV

4000 Watts/ 24v= 166 amps

Now mind you these batteries are not running the system longer than 20-30 secs at a time before recharging restarts. Because how long can you truly go full throttle on streets.


Now the Odyssey batteries can sustain 550 amps for 5 seconds, but figure it tapers off even at a high rate and it should be able sustain the 166 amps over the time you are full throttle with the two batteries.



In auto x or track events people have found that it can't keep up for longer then a couple of laps.







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[stevo585]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Hey Pax,

P=IV

4000 Watts/ 24v= 166 amps

Now mind you these batteries are not running the system longer than 20-30 secs at a time before recharging restarts. Because how long can you truly go full throttle on streets.


Now the Odyssey batteries can sustain 550 amps for 5 seconds, but figure it tapers off even at a high rate and it should be able sustain the 166 amps over the time you are full throttle with the two batteries.






In auto x or track events people have found that it can't keep up for longer then a couple of laps.







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Yeah even 20-30 seconds is alot! I'm always 3-10 seconds on the street. At just 13.8 seconds I'm already at 101 mph...

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by stevo585

Yeah even 20-30 seconds is alot! I'm always 3-10 seconds on the street. At just 13.8 seconds I'm already at 101 mph...

Yup... Thats why 5 secs... Plenty.


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[KoolBRZ]

Here are some new PROcede maps for high-knock and low-knock tunes. The map number 1 is for cars more prone to knock, and the map number 2 is for low knock cars. The first pic is of map #1, a very smooth geometric progression, which only gets to 100% boost after 60% throttle and 6500 rpms. For those prone to knock when the boost comes on, this is the map for you. The second pic is of map #2. Still a smooth geometric progression, but it ramps up much faster because the columns start with a difference of two points, instead of one. This one feels really strong in my car. I have one of those low-knock cars. Try both maps and if you get a lot of knock, use map #1, if you don't, use map #2. Remember to use the calibration walk-through lower down on this page, http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=87889&page=15 . This will not only tell you how, but why as well. Seems the PROcede averages to the right, and if there isn't any cells to the right, at full throttle, it averages between the cell contents and 0, lowering the boost at full throttle. You can thank @keen_as for that, for actually measuring the voltage at full, and less-than-full throttle to determine what was happening. I'll also have a new, 40/20 tune I'll be releasing soon. it's called 40/20 because it gets 40 mpg highway, and 20 mpg city! I'm working on versions for MT and AT. But, just when I think it's finally ready, there is something else I need to add to it.

[l0aded]

Does anyone have an aftermarket HU? Joying just released their 5.1 Android HU for Toyota Universal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
///
https://www.carjoying.com/android-5-...n-dash-ca.html


Is there concern with the additional power draw since the starter battery is smaller than stock? These HUs can go in sleep mode which continuously draw (very small amount) but can be turned off, though I'd rather not.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

Does anyone have an aftermarket HU? Joying just released their 5.1 Android HU for Toyota Universal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
///
https://www.carjoying.com/android-5-...n-dash-ca.html


Is there concern with the additional power draw since the starter battery is smaller than stock? These HUs can go in sleep mode which continuously draw (very small amount) but can be turned off, though I'd rather not.

I have a Nexus 7 and an aftermarket hu. (Single din). Also I'm powering an amp and a sub. No issues.


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[KoolBRZ]

Please let me know if want me to make tunes for your CAL ID with my new 40/20 tune. I'll be including 3 tunes, a 1 normal, 1 less advanced, and 1 more advanced. I'll also be including 3 PROcede maps, low boost, medium boost, and high boost, a the definition file, and tune I used to base your tunes from, (usually OFT ESC, or OTS stage 2). This will give you the ability to try and match the tune and PROcede map to the Intake and Exhaust restrictions of your individual setup. Please PM me with your CAL ID if you want to be included.
(Edit)
So far, I have the following CAL IDs to be included.

for Manual Transmissions
A00C
A00G
A00I
A01C
A01G
D01C

for Automatic Transmissions
900D
A00D
A01D
B00D
B01D
D00D

[Sojhinn]

If anyone is interested in a procede for the phantom... Let me know.


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[KoolBRZ]

These tunes have the AVCS timing less advanced to contain boost better, soft rev limit, lower fan temp limits, Port Inj. MRP rescaled for boost, PI/DI leaned out for less knock, BTB reduced for less knock, GDI angle smoothed for less misfires, cold start high rev fix, and much, much more than I can remember. I'll have the tunes for MT's available soon.

[KoolBRZ]

The MT tunes took a little longer. They were more trouble, since there are some differences between the AT tunes and the MT tunes. That said, here they are. Just remember these are for entertainment purposes only, no liability, for off-road use only and all the rest of that bumf. But seriously, I would like a PM from anyone who gets a CEL, (check engine light), or has unusually high LTFT, IAM, or high vibration at idle.

Load all three 40-20 tunes in your OFT and try them all. Stick with the one which gives your car the best power. If that tune happens to be 1 or 3 you might need to increase or decrease AVCS timing overlap. Send me a PM with your CAL ID, and I'll send you 2 more tunes to try out, which have increased overlap, or decreased overlap, depending on whether you ended up with tunes 1 or 3.

[stevo585]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

The MT tunes took a little longer. They were more trouble, since there are some differences between the AT tunes and the MT tunes. That said, here they are. Just remember these are for entertainment purposes only, no liability, for off-road use only and all the rest of that bumf. But seriously, I would like a PM from anyone who gets a CEL, (check engine light), or has unusually high LTFT, IAM, or high vibration at idle.

Load all three 40-20 tunes in your OFT and try them all. Stick with the one which gives your car the best power. If that tune happens to be 1 or 3 you might need to increase or decrease AVCS timing overlap. Send me a PM with your CAL ID, and I'll send you 2 more tunes to try out, which have increased overlap, or decreased overlap, depending on whether you ended up with tunes 1 or 3.

I wonder how my tunes cam timing is... I believe we took my NA tune and adjusted for the ESC. I know my AFR is 11.8 and timing 22.5 degrees max load & redline on 93 gas. (12.2 and 28 degrees on e85). I'm not speed density since the stock MAP was able to read the boost pretty well and the MAF was in a normal voltage range. I saw a max of .33 bar @ 45F.

Just wondering if the cam timing is too aggressive on overlap. Wouldn't some boost go out the exhaust then?

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by stevo585

I wonder how my tunes cam timing is... I believe we took my NA tune and adjusted for the ESC. I know my AFR is 11.8 and timing 22.5 degrees max load & redline on 93 gas. (12.2 and 28 degrees on e85). I'm not speed density since the stock MAP was able to read the boost pretty well and the MAF was in a normal voltage range. I saw a max of .33 bar @ 45F.

Just wondering if the cam timing is too aggressive on overlap. Wouldn't some boost go out the exhaust then?

The best way to solve the cam timing is to start with smoothed Intake and Exhaust tables. Then increase the valve overlap by moving the column contents one column to the left. Keep doing this one column at a time until power decreases, then back off till you reach best power. I've found a spacing of 3-1 for Intake and 2-1 for Exhaust works best for me.

Best power is a delicate balance between containing the expansion to extract max torque, and yet allowing the exhaust to exit without impeding flow. Power can be lost through impeding the flow, and also by releasing the charge before max torque has been extracted. Take a look at the spacing between columns and rows. I experimented a bit before settling on the spacing you see above. I'll be starting with the same tables when I start tuning for E85.

[keen as]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

The MT tunes took a little longer. They were more trouble, since there are some differences between the AT tunes and the MT tunes. That said, here they are. Just remember these are for entertainment purposes only, no liability, for off-road use only and all the rest of that bumf. But seriously, I would like a PM from anyone who gets a CEL, (check engine light), or has unusually high LTFT, IAM, or high vibration at idle.

Load all three 40-20 tunes in your OFT and try them all. Stick with the one which gives your car the best power. If that tune happens to be 1 or 3 you might need to increase or decrease AVCS timing overlap. Send me a PM with your CAL ID, and I'll send you 2 more tunes to try out, which have increased overlap, or decreased overlap, depending on whether you ended up with tunes 1 or 3.

thanks, I will try these (for A01G) once I am off e85. I'll also check AFR to see if it is good at the lower revs.

[stevo585]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

The best way to solve the cam timing is to start with smoothed Intake and Exhaust tables. Then increase the valve overlap by moving the column contents one column to the left. Keep doing this one column at a time until power decreases, then back off till you reach best power. I've found a spacing of 3-1 for Intake and 2-1 for Exhaust works best for me.

Best power is a delicate balance between containing the expansion to extract max torque, and yet allowing the exhaust to exit without impeding flow. Power can be lost through impeding the flow, and also by releasing the charge before max torque has been extracted. Take a look at the spacing between columns and rows. I experimented a bit before settling on the spacing you see above. I'll be starting with the same tables when I start tuning for E85.

Good advice Ill talk with my tuner. Its likely optimized already. He has tuned so many hundreds of cars (Jamesm) that he has an optimized basemap for practically each header brand IIRC. In my case Borla.