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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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08-15-2012, 04:36 PM | #1 |
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Crash bolts alignment change
I have been seeing some of you that installed crash bolts getting from about -1.2 to -1.5 camber. What I haven't see is how much toe-in are you getting before you change it to your desired settings? I'm debating on installing them for a couple runs this weekend but I won't have time to string up the car until the following weekend. If its minor, I'll just deal with it and maybe guess a couple flats change on each side. If it major though, I'll just hold off.
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08-15-2012, 04:48 PM | #2 |
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I did not do a "before" toe measurement, but the "after" measurement was exactly zero. That made me happy. I haven't checked my final camber numbers either.
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08-15-2012, 04:52 PM | #3 |
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Strange. This would mean either your toe was a bit out or it didn't change which seems less likely given the geometry. Did you check your camber before?
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08-15-2012, 04:52 PM | #4 |
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i'm new to these crash bolts. can someone explain what they are? from what i understand, our car's alignment settings cannot be adjusted with the stock suspension components? can i still race in stock class with these crash bolts installed?
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08-15-2012, 04:54 PM | #5 |
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On the strut where the hub connects it, there are two bolts the hold the angle of the hub relative to the strut. In stock form, this is roughly 0 (perfectly vertical). The crash bolt has a slightly smaller diameter and replaced the upper bolt on that arrangement allowing the top of the hub to "tilt in" relative to the strut producing negative camber, around -1.3 on the FRS/BRZ in stock form with the one allowed crash bolt per side for SCCA stock class.
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08-15-2012, 04:56 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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08-15-2012, 04:59 PM | #7 | |
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As for why, I don't know why we didn't get adjustable camber bolts like the WRX does on a car that seems even more destined for motorsport use. But it is what it is.
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08-15-2012, 05:05 PM | #8 | |
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are the rears non-adjustable, period? i find that interesting as well that they didn't include components to make it adjustable from the factory. what do other tuners do when they have a non-adjustable factory suspension? do they just install crash bolts as well? |
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08-15-2012, 05:10 PM | #9 | |
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Yes and no. You can usually loosen up the rear components and get a bit more negative camber and then tighten it all back up. I'll do this when I get it stringed up on the lift.
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Depends if they are following any racing rules or just doing it as they please. Within SCCA stock class, this is your typical option for a McStrut car if its in the service manual to allow it. If there are no rules or they are less restrictive, you can do cam bolts (eccentric bolts), camber/caster plates, or new mounting points.
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The Following User Says Thank You to ABQautoxer For This Useful Post: | ayau (08-15-2012) |
08-15-2012, 05:30 PM | #10 |
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got it. thanks for all the good info.
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08-17-2012, 11:37 AM | #11 |
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I'm probably gonna try installing oem bolts tomorrow with diy tools, so I'll try to measure before/with just bolts installed.
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08-17-2012, 07:45 PM | #12 |
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Ok, an update.
Got my bolts today. Measured my camber/toe in my apparently uneven garage. Came out to ~-0.1° on the left and about -0.9° on the right. And no, my fat butt wasn't in the car, and I shook everything well to let it settle w/o my weight in the car. The total toe (at ends of my basic tool, which is basically two horizontal bars leaning on the wheels) was about 4/32nds toe-out. Put in crash bolts. Ended up with about -1.1°/-1.9° L/R camber and about 1/32nds toe-out. Also, since I loosened the nuts on the steering arms in expectation of needing to adjust them, there's a possibility that alignment has changed by about one faucet between start and finish. All in all, I'll call it good; and I am surprised that the toe changed that little. Off to test-drive the thing. |
11-11-2012, 12:49 PM | #13 |
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Seems like a good post to bump.
Today I noticed again how little the toe changes with camber. I wanted more (and cheap) camber up front, so I added some SPC/Eibach adjusting bolts to the *lower* hole to supplement the stock bolts in the upper hole. If I did everything right, I managed to get another degree of camber (now about -2.3 deg/side) with the added bolts. Now, for the problem. I have plenty of tire-strut (specifically, the spring perch) clearance with the stock tires, but with 245/40-17 Star Specs on 17x8 +45 (RPF1) wheels that space goes to damn near zero (I measured about 1/16") So, beware if you want to go this route. Probably fine with coilovers, but not so good with stock shocks/springs. Adding a degree of camber to each side took me from 0 toe to about 1/16" in. |
11-11-2012, 05:47 PM | #14 |
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Last edited by gmookher; 11-11-2012 at 06:49 PM. |
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