Camber/alignment for Eibach Prokit and when should I get alignment?

[Meanderchap]

I tried searching for this info but was a bit confused given some differing opinions and my lack of knowledge on this topic. A week ago I had Eibach Prokit springs installed on my FR-S, in addition to RPF1 17x8 +35 and 225/45/17 MPSS, square set-up. I was told that I should wait a month before getting an alignment because it takes that long for the springs to fully settle. Is it advisable that I get an alignment sooner than that?

Also, for street/canyon driving, what alignment specs should I have dialed in? Stock specs? Lastly, do I need any front camber bolts or rear camber control arms, or am I good without making these camber adjustments? Thanks.

[jawn]

Originally Posted by Meanderchap

I tried searching for this info but was a bit confused given some differing opinions and my lack of knowledge on this topic. A week ago I had Eibach Prokit springs installed on my FR-S, in addition to RPF1 17x8 +35 and 225/45/17 MPSS, square set-up. I was told that I should wait a month before getting an alignment because it takes that long for the springs to fully settle. Is it advisable that I get an alignment sooner than that?

Also, for street/canyon driving, what alignment specs should I have dialed in? Stock specs? Lastly, do I need any front camber bolts or rear camber control arms, or am I good without making these camber adjustments? Thanks.

You can get the alignment now. It's really not going to settle that much more after the first week.

From the factory, these cars have basically 0 camber in the front, and around -1 in the rear. These cars have no camber adjustment from the factory. You're not going to get to stock numbers without rear lower control arms, but that's not to say it's necessarily a bad thing. The goal with adjusting camber front and rear is to change the amount of cornering grip front and rear.

This is oversimplifying what's happening, but more negative camber generally means more cornering grip. Also oversimplifying, but if you have significantly more camber in the rear than in the front, you could see more understeer.

At the very minimum, I'd get camber bolts for the front, and tell them to max out the negative camber up front (it'll likely be around -1.3). More would be better, and if you'd like, you could get a second set of camber bolts to get it to -2 or greater. It's like a $25 dollar investment for more cornering grip, and takes like 20 minutes to install.

Your rears are likely around -2 after the drop, which is okay. Some folks like a little less negative camber in the rears so they get lower control arms.

I'd go with 0 toe in the front, or slightly toe out. 0 toe in the rear, or slightly toe in for stability. The stock toe spec is basically 0 front and rear.

You're not likely to see uneven tire wear if you stay under -3 for camber, provided your toe isn't crazy.

tl;dr: yes, get an alignment. Get camber bolts, or don't. Your choice.

[twag4]

You need an alignment now.

[strat61caster]

I've swapped suspension components in this car 4 times now, unless you touched the toe arms or installed an adjustable component your alignment is likely still within the sloppy specs the average chain shop will align to and is perfectly streetable.