01-12-2016, 05:52 PM | #1065 | |
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Quote:
The GTX2867 has only been installed on our shop car. We are actually installing another gtx28 on a local customers car next week, but it requires us to custom fabricate one-off brackets and intake adaptor to fit properly, which is doable since we're doing the install and customer is paying for the fab work just to run this turbo. But it's not something we want to do for a "packaged" production kit. Our plan is to have the gtx28 option by spring time along with the necessary custom intake couplers and turbo mounting bracket needed for the gt28 housing. |
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01-12-2016, 10:26 PM | #1066 |
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01-13-2016, 10:51 AM | #1067 |
NASA SpecE30 Racer
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If anyone wants to sell their electrical pump after converting, I wouldn't mind owning a spare.
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01-13-2016, 11:24 AM | #1068 |
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Will luk!
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01-13-2016, 09:19 PM | #1069 |
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I'll be converting as soon as its available to ship.
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01-15-2016, 04:15 AM | #1070 |
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Thoughts on which is a better option, electronic or mechanical and why?
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01-15-2016, 11:29 AM | #1071 | |
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Quote:
They both serve the same purpose but from a installation standpoint the mechanical pump is much more straightforward to install and difficult to install incorrectly. In addition, it eliminates the heavy electrical pump, mounting brackets, long runs of oil return lines, wiring harness and secondary check valve that we had to include with it since it does not use a oil sump. The mechanical pump setup was a bit more involved to produce since we had to create not only the pump adaptor plate, but also the fixture for cnc machining the oem pump. In addition, we had to develop a compact billet oil sump to hold the oil once the engine was turned off. But we made the entire setup very lite and compact. We could not offer the mechanical pump setup initially when our turbo system was originally designed a few years back, since the oem fa20dit (turbo motor) scavenge pump was not readily available in the US market. And to build a complete mechanical pump from scratch was a huge investment for a low volume product such as a turbo kit. However, the oem fa20dit scavenge pumps is not a simple buy and install item, we had to cnc the unit to fit properly on the FA20 motor with our adaptor plate. So basically, if your current setup is not giving you any trouble then stick with it, but you're concern that your electrical pump might fail one day to some electrical gremlin, than you can always upgrade to the mechanical setup--we'll announce the upgrade option in a few weeks for those that are interested. The main advantage the mechanical pump has over the electrical is reliability, since the mechanical pump is driven off the factory camshaft, you can be confident that if your engine is running, the pump is running and when you're engine is turned off, the pump will turn off. But like any mechanical unit with moving parts, the tolerances on the pump unit could increase over time and eventually will need to be replaced, no different than a water pump, or engine oil pump. But we feel that's not going to be a concern for quite a while And when that times comes, you can just buy the replacement pump. Hope that answers your question. Last edited by Mrc@ptuning; 01-15-2016 at 01:43 PM. |
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01-15-2016, 03:15 PM | #1072 |
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Well, I'm switching for the sole reason that it will be easier to work with when removing my turbo or transmission. I've had to drop them both several times LOL. But I assume it has longer lifespan than the electric. I don't have any doubts about the electric pump, its worked just fine for 20k miles on 2 different cars for me. Never a hiccup.
Last edited by rb6freak; 01-15-2016 at 03:48 PM. |
01-15-2016, 03:50 PM | #1073 | |
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Quote:
Yes, it's driven off the rear camshaft opening used to drive the factory vacuum pump on the A/T model. On the M/T it's blocked off. But the pump is not a vacuum pump. It's a modern-style gerotor mechanical oil pump. |
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01-15-2016, 03:51 PM | #1074 |
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Yeah I just read your post, I didn't see it before my post so I edited mine after I read how it was powered, thanks!
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01-15-2016, 04:00 PM | #1075 |
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01-16-2016, 05:59 AM | #1076 |
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I want twin scroll
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01-16-2016, 10:50 AM | #1077 |
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01-16-2016, 04:24 PM | #1078 |
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A twin scroll turbo will not work on our application unless someone can come up with a way to route two overpipes from the header back to the turbo through that tiny opening in the front subrame For a twin scroll turbine housing to be effective, the runners from cylinders 1&4 must be merged to one port on the turbine inlet and 2&3 to the other port. If you merge them all together then it's no different than using an undivided (single scroll) turbine housing. Also, twin scroll turbos only shine on the larger frame GT turbos with a huge T4 size divided housing on something like a GT35R or larger. On something like a GT28 or GT30 you're not going to see any significant benefit. But again, a twin scroll is a mute point with our turbo layout. When the turbocharger mfr like IHI decides to release a variable vane turbo for the aftermarket, along with a variable vane controller, that's when we can all get excited |
The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Mrc@ptuning For This Useful Post: | CxG (04-07-2016), Darryljr11 (01-18-2016), Hicklinc (01-29-2018), MooKz (01-16-2016), rb6freak (01-18-2016) |
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