Issues with getting camber to -3 in front?

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Churg

Unfortunately, the bits of the manual that Alan gave me didn't have pictures. So I just kinda went with it, hahaha.

And I assumed the SRC's came with a bolt, because Alan left one on with the washer bit attached to the strut. So David, you have any idea where I can get my hands on some of those pictures?

It's literally an exploded view of the components that go on the shock. Basically if you follow that, you know where each component should be. Also, you can look at the simple recommended measurements to ensure the recommended preload and height are dialed in.

Originally Posted by Churg

I'm low. A lot lower than I thought I'd be. 1.4-1.6" from stock, give or take.

It's about 1.4" drop for recommended (although Alan is into dat look doe), but it doesn't ride or feel like it is lowered by 1.4", which is actually the biggest difference compared to everything else out there.

[Churg]

Originally Posted by CSG David

It's literally an exploded view of the components that go on the shock. Basically if you follow that, you know where each component should be. Also, you can look at the simple recommended measurements to ensure the recommended preload and height are dialed in.



It's about 1.4" drop for recommended (although Alan is into dat look doe), but it doesn't ride or feel like it is lowered by 1.4", which is actually the biggest difference compared to everything else out there.

I'll let you guys know how this weekend goes with digging through manuals and such, see if I can get my camber to what it should be.

I believe Alan said it was about a 1.5-.6" off from stock. I scrape on everything right now, it's pretty bad

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Churg

I'll let you guys know how this weekend goes with digging through manuals and such, see if I can get my camber to what it should be.

I believe Alan said it was about a 1.5-.6" off from stock. I scrape on everything right now, it's pretty bad

Alan has a tendency to make the car look good. Keep in mind with that specific setting and a couple tweaks to the settings, Alan's car did a 1:24.x at Streets of Willow driven by Mike 2 years ago.

[wparsons]

Unless there is supposed to be washers spacing the upper mount apart from itself to allow the raised area to fit under the green part of the mount, there's no way you're getting more negative at the top based on this picture. If others are getting more and the top holes are slotted then that's where you should be looking. Max out the negative at the knuckle then even it out using the upper mounts.

[Churg]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Alan has a tendency to make the car look good. Keep in mind with that specific setting and a couple tweaks to the settings, Alan's car did a 1:24.x at Streets of Willow driven by Mike 2 years ago.

I found the measurements for the car in stock form here on the forums, so I'll see what the gap is between the two. If I can find a jack that is low profile enough to fit under my car tonight, I'll have those bolts checked and my car realigned tomorrow.

And that's impressive. To my knowledge, there hasn't been much done power-wise to Alan's car, from the looks of his build and what he was parting out on the car.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Churg

I found the measurements for the car in stock form here on the forums, so I'll see what the gap is between the two. If I can find a jack that is low profile enough to fit under my car tonight, I'll have those bolts checked and my car realigned tomorrow.

And that's impressive. To my knowledge, there hasn't been much done power-wise to Alan's car, from the looks of his build and what he was parting out on the car.

He added a few more items after that time was performed.

[King Tut]

Loosen the lower strut bolts and have someone pull out the bottom of your rotor or push in the top of your rotor while you tighten the bolts. The should ensure you get max camber from the lower strut bolts.

[OmarYasin]

Originally Posted by Churg

I found the measurements for the car in stock form here on the forums, so I'll see what the gap is between the two. If I can find a jack that is low profile enough to fit under my car tonight, I'll have those bolts checked and my car realigned tomorrow.

And that's impressive. To my knowledge, there hasn't been much done power-wise to Alan's car, from the looks of his build and what he was parting out on the car.

Get a 2x4 drive up it, should clear then for a jack

[CSG Mike]

I just saw this thread...

I'm gonna guess something funky is going on at the knuckle end. Even with your OEM bolts, with the recommend drop, you should have way more camber than that.

[Jetbill]

Although I'm only running 3.2 degrees, I was able to get almost 4 degrees up front with spc camber bolts up top. One thing I noticed was the camber bolts only went in one direction in the tein coilovers, one hole size is larger allowing it to be inserted in in position.

Originally Posted by Churg

Hey guys,

I bought some Tein SRC's, installed them, and went to a local alignment shop to get my car taken care of. However, the shop had some serious issues working on getting my camber to -3 like I wanted. Now, I don't know much about setting camber. I know that moving around the little bolts in the camber plate adjusts the camber, but that's about it.

Here's before their adjustment, at -1.7 camber:


And here's after their adjustment at -2.0:


I am 99% sure that I've installed the coilovers correctly, and I'm guessing that the guy aligning my car doesn't know how to adjust this properly, and because of my lack of knowledge on adjusting camber, I had to basically stick with -2.0, and for a competitive car in STX, I'd like to be sitting at -3.2 or so.

I also wanted to give a shout out to @CSG David for being so helpful and responding to my emails so fast while I was at the shop, I was really impressed.

[kster1]

@Churg

Ever get this resolved? What was the issue?