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Old 02-17-2017, 03:27 PM   #1
leets4uc3
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Rocker put a hole in valve cover

Hello All.


I have a 2013 FRS running a 210 sprintex supercharger and last week while I was doing a mountain run, a rocker punched a hole in the valve cover. I'm planning to rebuild with new internals, but I need some advice on what I need and how far I should go depending on the shape of the motor.


I'd like to run the same setup, but with a little more boost. I was running about 6 psi when everything went south. What parts do you guys think I should upgrade to have a stable car in the distance future? Rods? Valves? Piston? Springs? Internals are new to me so I'm open to pretty much any idea and would like to learn more.


http://imgur.com/mOTf0Hv
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:30 PM   #2
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Damn only 6psi? I'm sorry for engine dude. How many miles did the engine have before you installed the window?
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:36 PM   #3
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Damn only 6psi? I'm sorry for engine dude. How many miles did the engine have before you installed the window?

Car has 30K. Had the new SC head unit on for 4 days then this happened... It was without a SC for 2 months before that...
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:04 PM   #4
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That suck's.
Thaaaats going to be pricy.
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:36 PM   #5
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Damn only 6psi? I'm sorry for engine dude. How many miles did the engine have before you installed the window?
Boost is irrelevant.
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:38 PM   #6
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Go to a trusted local race shop that has experience with forced induction on this platform. Do what they say.
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:48 PM   #7
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Go to a trusted local race shop that has experience with forced induction on this platform. Do what they say.
@leets4uc3 ........ in addition ....... I suggest you have them do it for you .....


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Old 02-17-2017, 07:56 PM   #8
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@leets4uc3 ........ in addition ....... I suggest you have them do it for you .....


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Honestly that's the plan. I need to find a tuning in Arizona. JDL and USM won't do it. Thought I could get some info here before I find one
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:14 PM   #9
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Look into upgrading your heads and/or upgrading springs and valves. My 2013 BRZ did the same during January 2014 while still n/a. The feedback from Subaru was that it was due to the design of the roller rocker retaining pins and that they are liable to work loose, which is what happened to mine sending a valve into my engine bay. I was talking to the Subaru Master Tech who rebuilt mine and he said that he shimmed my springs to make them stiffer. He also mentioned that in the last couple of years he has seen at least another 5 with the same issue while working at my local dealership, but not to the same extent as mine lol. Pretty sure this explains changes to the valves and springs and other slight changes to head designs over consecutive model years. Mine was an April 2013 build.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:58 PM   #10
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Look into upgrading your heads and/or upgrading springs and valves. My 2013 BRZ did the same during January 2014 while still n/a. The feedback from Subaru was that it was due to the design of the roller rocker retaining pins and that they are liable to work loose, which is what happened to mine sending a valve into my engine bay. I was talking to the Subaru Master Tech who rebuilt mine and he said that he shimmed my springs to make them stiffer. He also mentioned that in the last couple of years he has seen at least another 5 with the same issue while working at my local dealership, but not to the same extent as mine lol. Pretty sure this explains changes to the valves and springs and other slight changes to head designs over consecutive model years. Mine was an April 2013 build.
That was my original thought with the heads. I still don't how messed up my motor is. I haven't check for metal shavings or anything yet. Will probably get motor out next weekend and see. Im assuming have the old rockers in mine. I wish it happened before I was modded.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:49 PM   #11
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Yeah, I was lucky mine was covered under warranty. I think mine may still have the MY13 spec springs and valves but I do know the tech said he 'shimmed the hell out of them' . My block required flushing but was given the all clear and then rebuilt with all new factory internals.
In response to the other part of your query I have been running a Cosworth supercharger for 2 years now with no issues, but will be looking at rebuilding the engine when it comes time to go higher boost. My kit runs just a touch over 7 psi so about the same as your Sprintex. Cosworth have hinted that around 8 psi is what they consider to be a 'safe' limit for engine longevity due to the way the rods are constructed, and that they are the weak link in the bottom end. Heres a link to a video with their chief engineer who briefly describes their testing process and how they came to this conclusion.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pP7SxeKcJQ"]Product Showcase | Cosworth GT86 Supercharger | Autosport International 2016 - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by muckypuppy View Post
Yeah, I was lucky mine was covered under warranty. I think mine may still have the MY13 spec springs and valves but I do know the tech said he 'shimmed the hell out of them' . My block required flushing but was given the all clear and then rebuilt with all new factory internals.
In response to the other part of your query I have been running a Cosworth supercharger for 2 years now with no issues, but will be looking at rebuilding the engine when it comes time to go higher boost. My kit runs just a touch over 7 psi so about the same as your Sprintex. Cosworth have hinted that around 8 psi is what they consider to be a 'safe' limit for engine longevity due to the way the rods are constructed, and that they are the weak link in the bottom end. Heres a link to a video with their chief engineer who briefly describes their testing process and how they came to this conclusion.
I posted that video in the Cosworth owners thread
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:01 AM   #13
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You guys are all over the fucking map. It's just a rocker arm with the shitty pins.

Replace all rocker arms with decent ones, and whatever else is broken.

Check valve lash and shim everywhere necessary.

Put it back together.

Drain & refill oil.

Drive it for 20 minutes.

Drain & refill oil. Replace oil filter.

Drive it.
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:50 AM   #14
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You may be ignoring the root cause.
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