09-04-2015, 08:18 PM | #15 |
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09-04-2015, 08:41 PM | #16 |
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Camber makes a huge diff in tire wear alone making it worthwhile from a cost perspective. This car benefits quite a bit from new camber for extra grip at any level as @drewbot suggests.
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09-04-2015, 09:42 PM | #17 | |
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Camber should be set to evenly distribute load across the width of the tire, stock is VERY lacking. As to your original question: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XAwMP9Hnu8"]CTMP DDT - Lapping with Hanson International - YouTube[/ame] I'm currently sitting at -2* all around, but could use another degree up front to even out grip and balance.
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09-04-2015, 09:56 PM | #18 |
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School me on camber adjustments...
Sorry, I didn't do a good job phrasing my question. I know what camber is and its effects, I was more or less curious what the OP was using the car for. Unless you're competing in time attack or other timed events, I was politely asking what's the point? I recently did a bit of a rethink when it came to my suspension settings after I realized I spend about 180 days daily driving my car and maybe 3 or 4 afternoons tracking it (untimed)
Not ragging on anyone, I was just curious to what others thought Edit: and I'm not trolling, I was genuinely curious if a degree or so of neg camber is that noticeable on stock suspension and tires
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09-04-2015, 11:37 PM | #19 |
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For track use, as mentioned already, helps with better wear on the tire, better grip, better everything.
Plenty of tread remaining on the inner half, but the outer half really took a beating.
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09-05-2015, 10:05 AM | #20 |
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I have the white line Comp-Cs knocking on my car and its allowed me to get some more clearance between tire and strut which is why I prefer it to just camber bolts. I talked to some people on an eastern European Subaru forum and they pointed me to a company called silver project based in Poland that has hand made camber plates for $150. Ordered them because why not and we'll see if they are a nice cheap solution to getting more camber in the front!
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09-05-2015, 10:55 AM | #21 | |
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09-06-2015, 10:23 AM | #22 | |
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As for street wear, if you have zero (or near zero) toe, you won't see increased inner wear from a couple degrees of camber. If you're in the -2* range, you'll probably get more even wear averaged out between street and track driving. This picture is a pretty good illustration why you need more camber up front: Even with minimal body roll (fully stock suspension, and alignment), you can see that the rear tire is pretty square to the pavement, while the front has gone well into the positive camber range.
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09-06-2015, 01:12 PM | #23 |
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I've driven about 15,000 km with -2 and now -2.5 on the front. Wearing pretty evenly.
The rears have a little inner wear though at -2.0 then -1.7. Sorta bummed that I didn't plan it out and get symmetrical tires so I can flip them. This is 3 track days and 28 AutoX runs Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk |
01-13-2016, 01:43 PM | #24 |
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Where do you all go for your alignments in the GTA? Who would you recommend to help achieve the best settings for track days with a completely stock suspension. I can't afford to replace control arms, install camber plates, etc on my car, but I've also learned my lesson by wearing the outside edge of tires on track days... a little negative camber goes a long way and is worth the price of a good alignment and the cost of things like 'crash bolts'.
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01-13-2016, 06:42 PM | #25 |
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There's zero camber adjustment stock, so you're going to have to buy some parts if you want to change anything.
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01-14-2016, 11:05 AM | #26 |
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I managed to get -1.1 in the front on my whiteline bolts on stock struts and eibach sportlines, but it appears to vary car to car.
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01-14-2016, 11:14 AM | #27 | |
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