01-30-2015, 06:24 PM | #57 | |
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As for reliability, I realize that the harder your engine works, the more wear and tear, so I understand that my two goals may be counterproductive. Just trying to keep it to a minimum. That said, It's a concern I have with the power blocks too.. any thoughts on that? I know I can search this stuff, but It's information overload.. I could read about one aspect of one mod for a day and still not understand it fully. It's also really difficult to find a specific answer to a specific question sometimes.. some of these threads could be books. One last question.. if I've already got K&N drop in and OFT, and have powerblocks on the way, how far off would you say I am from the 230hp goal? Edit: Last last question.. what is "op" in your list of mods? Last edited by MikeM7; 01-30-2015 at 06:52 PM. |
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01-30-2015, 07:16 PM | #58 | |
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I hate to burst your bubble, but you're not going to be anywhere near 250WHP with those mods. You'll be just over 200WHP. |
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01-30-2015, 07:19 PM | #59 |
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01-30-2015, 07:50 PM | #60 |
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01-30-2015, 08:35 PM | #61 | ||
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Random question, if the car is marketed at 200hp, then why does everyone measure by whp? More accurate measurement? It throws me off when I'm thinking my car is ~200hp stock, yet someone says thousands of dollars in performance mods will barely get you to 200. I'm basing my desires off of having owned a "240 hp" car, and I'm sure that wasn't to the wheels. So I should clarify that what I really want is whatever 230-250hp is in whp.. I guess. Sorry for being such a noob. |
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01-30-2015, 08:59 PM | #62 | |
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WHP is simply more specific and accurate to a given car. It takes into account drivetrain loss, and therefore things that people spend money on are factored into the equation (like wheels). It probably also has to do with the fact that most manufacturers put the same engine in multiple cars. It's easier to just rate the power at the engine that way. I'm sure there's a handful of other reasons too. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to 2much For This Useful Post: | MikeM7 (01-30-2015) |
01-30-2015, 09:07 PM | #63 | |
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It generally a bit of hassle to pull the motor out to get engine or flywheel hp readings. When aftermarket guys qoute engine or flywheel hp they have measured the wheel hp and just use an uplift factor to calculate engine or flywheel hp using an average drivetrain loss factor, cosworth do that. manufactures quote flywheel or engine hp as they probably do a gazillion hours of testing on a dyno with just an engine and no car and as other guy said same engine used in multiple cars. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to steve99 For This Useful Post: | MikeM7 (01-30-2015) |
01-31-2015, 02:01 PM | #65 |
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01-31-2015, 02:32 PM | #66 |
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VISA Its everywhere you want to be.
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The Following User Says Thank You to D K For This Useful Post: | juliog (01-31-2015) |
02-01-2015, 03:11 AM | #67 |
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Last edited by cf6mech; 02-01-2015 at 03:23 AM. |
02-01-2015, 12:07 PM | #68 | |
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You can measure engine hp before ever putting it in a car, so the hp # has absolutely nothing to do with car weight. Although some people incorrectly believe that if you shed mass from the rotating assembly that it directly equates to extra hp. It does not. |
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02-01-2015, 12:19 PM | #69 |
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Just get a tune headers and axle back call it done
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02-01-2015, 01:22 PM | #70 | |
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2. Are you driving a manual or auto? When most people say they want power, they really want acceleration. Changing your final drive gears will give much better acceleration with only a small effect on economy. I like the 4.875 for the auto, and 4.3, or 4.55 for the manual. 3. Learn to scale your MAF. No MAF scale is perfect, even the stock one. Small changes to the MAF scale have effects you can feel and even hear, and give better acceleration the closer you come to your goal of 0 STFT/LTFT, (fuel trims). Steve99 and codename47 have some very good links and guides for doing this yourself. Since you already have an OFT, you can download RomRaider for free and do this at no additional cost. |
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