Oil 5w30

[cooldandani]

Hey guys ran into some trouble, just ordered some eneos sustina 5w30 oil by accident. I messaged the guy if he could change the order to 0w20 but he said it was too late. I've read of other people putting 5w30 into their frs is it safe?? Thanks for input!

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[raul]

I run GC 5w30 just fine.

[Anthonytpt]

I've been running with Motul 300V 5W-30. Try searching the forum.

[cooldandani]

Well I read that it's not too good if you live somewhere that's cold and I live in pa where it's currently 5 f lol

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[mav1178]

Keep the 5w-30 for hot summer use.

Order 0W-20 for winter.

Originally Posted by raul

I run GC 5w30 just fine.

Originally Posted by Anthonytpt

I've been running with Motul 300V 5W-30. Try searching the forum.

For us in warmer climates, 5W-30 is fine...

-alex

[bluesubie]

Can you return the oil?

All 5W's are tested at -30C so it should start fine, but definitely not as easily as the 0W-20. Although 5W-30 is thicker than 0W-20, especially in these temps that we're having now, so I would probably would just order some 0W-20 and save the 5W-30 for later.

You could also mix the 5W-30 with the 0W-20.

edit:
Just to get an idea of the difference in actual thickness at your current temp., I plugged the viscosity numbers for Eneos 0W-20 and 5W-30 into a viscosity calculator. Eneos 0W-20 is approx. 872.5 cSt's at -15C/5F and the 5W-30 is approx. 1244.5. At 0C/32F, the difference isn't as great. 299.1 for the 0W-20 and 416.8 for the 5W-30.

http://www.eneos.us/product/1
http://www.eneos.us/product/4
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

You definitely don't want to go to the dealer with an engine warranty concern and tell them you're running 5W-30.

-Dennis

[cooldandani]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Can you return the oil?

All 5W's are tested at -30C so it should start fine, but definitely not as easily as the 0W-20. Although 5W-30 is thicker than 0W-20, especially in these temps that we're having now, so I would probably would just order some 0W-20 and save the 5W-30 for later.

You could also mix the 5W-30 with the 0W-20.

edit:
Just to get an idea of the difference in actual thickness at your current temp., I plugged the viscosity numbers for Eneos 0W-20 and 5W-30 into a viscosity calculator. Eneos 0W-20 is approx. 872.5 cSt's at -15C/5F and the 5W-30 is approx. 1244.5. At 0C/32F, the difference isn't as great. 299.1 for the 0W-20 and 416.8 for the 5W-30.

http://www.eneos.us/product/1
http://www.eneos.us/product/4
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

You definitely don't want to go to the dealer with an engine warranty concern and tell them you're running 5W-30.

-Dennis

yeah thats not something i want to deal with, taking it to toyota and not getting it covered just cause of the oil, so now i have a box of 5w30 eneos sustina oil for sale. lol anyone want???

[Dave-ROR]

I run 0W-30. Just save it for the summer. Unless I lived up north I would never put 0W-20 in these cars, oil pressure sucked with 0W-20 in my car. (and even then I'd probably still run 0W-30 depending on UOA results, I'd at least try it).

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I run 0W-30. Just save it for the summer. Unless I lived up north I would never put 0W-20 in these cars, oil pressure sucked with 0W-20 in my car. (and even then I'd probably still run 0W-30 depending on UOA results, I'd at least try it).

Oil pressure isn't relevant to engine protection in the way you imply. The bearings are protected by rotational film shear causing wedging of the bearing on a cushion of oil. Very little oil pressure is required for this to occur.

Oil pressure used to be very important when single grade oils were used. Since multi grade oil became common oil flow is now all that matters. Oil flow keeps oil temperature down which does protect the engine. Paradoxically, using oil with too high a viscosity can increase oil pressure but reduce flow rates increasing oil temperature in the bearings and thereby damage those bearings.

If you have to choose between fitting an oil pressure gauge and an oil temperature gauge fit the temperature gauge every time, it tells you useful information. Oil pressure is only useful as a representation of likely oil temperature.

Always use the correct viscosity specified for your engine. Always.

[Dave-ROR]

Oil pressure is hugely useful to see starvation on track. I'd run oil pressure over temp if I had to pick but I've always run both.

And sorry, but 45psi at redline isn't ideal. I agree flow is most important, a bit hard to measure though. Oh and that was in a straight line, it dropped more on track mid turn. That was with a cooler, ~230 on the track or so.

However, do what you want. 0w-20 is good for fuel eco I will stick with what's worked well for me on race cars over the last 10 years and more than that on street cars. Old school, maybe but whatever.

Oh yeah, Subaru suggests thicker oil for track use, etc too. I know the OP isn't talking about tracking his car right now, my point was that Subaru obviously isn't concerned with a thicker oil and suggests it depending on use.

Use the viscosity that your bearings/clearances like. We run 50 weight in the race car because of it's larger clearances.. well we did, probably not in the future, we are replacing bearings now after someone (not me ) left the oil cap off and drove a session on sebring.. Depending on clearances we will adjust.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

Oil pressure is hugely useful to see starvation on track. I'd run oil pressure over temp if I had to pick but I've always run both.

And sorry, but 45psi at redline isn't ideal. I agree flow is most important, a bit hard to measure though. Oh and that was in a straight line, it dropped more on track mid turn. That was with a cooler, ~230 on the track or so.

However, do what you want. 0w-20 is good for fuel eco I will stick with what's worked well for me on race cars over the last 10 years and more than that on street cars. Old school, maybe but whatever.

Oh yeah, Subaru suggests thicker oil for track use, etc too. I know the OP isn't talking about tracking his car right now, my point was that Subaru obviously isn't concerned with a thicker oil and suggests it depending on use.

Use the viscosity that your bearings/clearances like. We run 50 weight in the race car because of it's larger clearances.. well we did, probably not in the future, we are replacing bearings now after someone (not me ) left the oil cap off and drove a session on sebring.. Depending on clearances we will adjust.

Looks like you are determining oil pressure by the grade on the bottle, which isn't always helpful. Some Resource Conserving 0W-30's have an HTHS the same as some robust 0W-20's, so there would be very little difference in oil pressure. In fact, some people call Red Line's 5W-20 a "fake 20 grade" as the HTHS is the same as many 30 grade oils even though the kinematic viscosity is at the very upper range of a 20 grade. In harsh conditions, some oils can also have viscosity shear, as well as HTHS shear, so a low HTHS/kinematic viscosity 0W-30 can lose pressure over the interval and you end up with a 20 grade anyway.

But all of this is a moot point since the topic of this thread is using a 5W-30 or a 0W-20 in PA in 5*F temps and not what oil to run in FL at the track! Look at the difference in start-up viscosity that I posted above.

-Dennis

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Looks like you are determining oil pressure by the grade on the bottle, which isn't always helpful. Some Resource Conserving 0W-30's have an HTHS the same as some robust 0W-20's, so there would be very little difference in oil pressure. In fact, some people call Red Line's 5W-20 a "fake 20 grade" as the HTHS is the same as many 30 grade oils even though the kinematic viscosity is at the very upper range of a 20 grade. In harsh conditions, some oils can also have viscosity shear, as well as HTHS shear, so a low HTHS/kinematic viscosity 0W-30 can lose pressure over the interval and you end up with a 20 grade anyway.

But all of this is a moot point since the topic of this thread is using a 5W-30 or a 0W-20 in PA in 5*F temps and not what oil to run in FL at the track! Look at the difference in start-up viscosity that I posted above.

-Dennis

Huh? I'm determining oil pressure via a sensor. I agree that the bottle by itself isn't useful and I shop oils by specs, not the grade on the bottle. I use the grade as a starting point (I can't say I've looked up Vis/HTHS/etc on 20w50s for example) though. Unless it's MTF/gear lube then I check specs of each product to see what fits my requirements.

As for the other point I simply suggested him keeping the oil for summer instead of selling it. We went off topic after that

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

Huh? I'm determining oil pressure via a sensor. I agree that the bottle by itself isn't useful and I shop oils by specs, not the grade on the bottle. I use the grade as a starting point (I can't say I've looked up Vis/HTHS/etc on 20w50s for example) though. Unless it's MTF/gear lube then I check specs of each product to see what fits my requirements.

As for the other point I simply suggested him keeping the oil for summer instead of selling it. We went off topic after that

I meant that simply telling someone to use x grade oil doesn't really do much to determine what their op will be since HTHS factors into op.

People are just throwing out use 5W-30, use 0W-30. If given a choice for the best oil at the track, I would choose something like Red Line 0W-20 or Motul 300V 0W-20 over a Resource Conserving 0W-30. With ester base stocks and a high HTHS for the grade, RL 0W-20 or 300V 0W-20 will very likely maintain both their kinematic and HTHS viscosities over the interval better than many off the shelf xW-30's which are designed for fuel economy. Some xW-30's have shown to shear to a 20 grade in as little as 1,500 miles in uoa's.

Sorry, a bit OT there.

-Dennis

[benlaz88]

Originally Posted by cooldandani

Hey guys ran into some trouble, just ordered some eneos sustina 5w30 oil by accident. I messaged the guy if he could change the order to 0w20 but he said it was too late. I've read of other people putting 5w30 into their frs is it safe?? Thanks for input!

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its should be fine. Im running Enos 5w20 and is running well for me.