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Old 09-18-2017, 01:31 PM   #799
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dustin what did you do for your gas pedal? GM? Which mounting solution did you go with for the pedal?
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Old 09-18-2017, 01:40 PM   #800
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GM Pedal. Unfortunately had to cut the factory studs off and used bolts to bolt it to factory pedal mount. Cut the GM pedal and welded on factory pedal in a better position. I actually need to move it a bit more. It's a bit too high for heel toe shifting.

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Old 09-20-2017, 10:48 AM   #801
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Couldn't sleep, so took out the driveshaft and removed the wheels to get them all balanced/checked before work.



I also got a new prothane transmission mount on order. Shop I used to work at is going to build a custom trans mount to help cut down NVH.

Wheels came out okay. One needed .5 ounces removed, the other needed 1 ounce added to an area already with weights. Don't think that was quite the issue. Kind of hoping it's the driveshaft, as really only other thing is axles and rear diff.
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:24 PM   #802
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Driveshaft has been moving enough to contact the gas tank heatshield. Not sure how or why. All drivetrain is mounted with poly bushings, so there shouldn't be that much movement.
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:08 PM   #803
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well that sounds to be the issue. That's a good thing! but bad at the same time.
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:18 PM   #804
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Got the driveshaft back, they moved two of the weights, and added two more on the opposite end.

I traded my valve covers for a set of powdercoated covers and they didn't end up fitting. So I am waiting to get my old ones back so I can test out how it feels.



I also received my replacement wideband sensor after my other one took a swim during the swap. Will be interesting to see what the AFRs are actually doing.
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:04 PM   #805
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Got the driveshaft in yesterday, O2 Bung for wideband welded in, WB Gauge installed, Black Valve Covers installed.







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Old 09-23-2017, 03:01 AM   #806
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Can't unsee the dash looking like a frog with those gauges there. Should just put them in the pillar or above the vents in the middle..lol and I apologize if you covered this before but why not get a different intake hose that goes to where the stock one normally goes? Seen a few of those located there. I'd imagine it would be better for airflow than a dryer hose and it's certainly more aesthetically pleasing. Looks amazing though I'm really jealous but loving the build.

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Old 09-23-2017, 11:16 PM   #807
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Come on brother,,,, I want to know about trans angle and vibration after the fact.
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2015 FR-S - One Day I'll Finish The Swap
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:50 AM   #808
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Can't unsee the dash looking like a frog with those gauges there. Should just put them in the pillar or above the vents in the middle..lol and I apologize if you covered this before but why not get a different intake hose that goes to where the stock one normally goes? Seen a few of those located there. I'd imagine it would be better for airflow than a dryer hose and it's certainly more aesthetically pleasing. Looks amazing though I'm really jealous but loving the build.
The gauges (except for the water temp) are set up to be seen very easily seen while driving. They work very well.

Radiator is getting vented and so I needed/wanted a straight intake. The 4" pipe and filter currently used is kind of difficult to route being so large. Still haven't moved the radiator to final position, and it will give more room for the intake when done.

@gtpvette

Vibrations are gone for the most part. It actually got rid of all those vibrations I was complaining about earlier in the build thread as well. I was just assuming they had to do with the quite stiff mounts, but bad driveshaft was the culprit. Need to go through a check wheel bearings, wheel balance, and possibly driveshaft again at another shop, but it does vibrate at.. higher... rates of speed.

I actually had a "canyon" run yesterday. Car did extremely well. Temps were good, Oil got to 250 without an oil cooler when I was pushing it hard (until the highway pull at which it got to 265-ish), coolant was a good 210 through that section. Car handled really well without the front sway bar, much better than I was expecting. Car needs an oil cooler, raised a tad, coilovers adjusted, and better brake pads. Car stayed in 5th pretty much the entire time, it's wild and amazing having torque.
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:56 PM   #809
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I hope all vibrations will be gone after the next driveshaft work and wheel balance. I am surprised that missing sway bar didn't make much difference, especially at fast corners in a canyon run. Will you be able install a sway bar later?
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Old 09-27-2017, 10:47 AM   #810
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Yes, there is a company selling a sway bar relocation bracket now (or making one custom).

Getting a build list of everything needed to move the radiator down more, as well as move the intake into cleaner/cooler air. Close to $250 already haha. Just for some aluminum and silicone couplers (and a Filter, not too expensive though).

Edit: Parts List for 3" "Y" to 4" exhaust finished for the most part. Looking at switching to Z06 Manifolds to get rid of plug wire issue and shouldn't cause much of a power loss either. Resonator in each 3" pipe to hopefully cut down on the drone in cabin. 18" Resonator in 4" around stock location. Back to 4" oval moving under the subframe back to regular 4" out the center. Should be decently quite with all the resonators and still have room for a muffler at the back if not.
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Old 09-28-2017, 09:59 AM   #811
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Heater Lines run finally:



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Old 09-28-2017, 12:12 PM   #812
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Heater Lines run finally:
Do you have any photos of where the lines connect to the heater core.
I don't have my heater connected because the heater core ports are really close to the intake.
Maybe you have more room or did you use special 90 degree hose?
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