Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) - Page 122 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

ajc209 · 10-06-2016, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Using an ideal mix of distilled water and antifreeze might help. Cosworth recommend 25% ethylene glycol I believe.

It's something like that. The key is to not sure too much antifreeze as it lowers the specific heat capacity of the fluid. So use as little as you need but enough to help against corrosion.

Kodename47 · 10-06-2016, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajc209

It's something like that. The key is to not sure too much antifreeze as it lowers the specific heat capacity of the fluid. So use as little as you need but enough to help against corrosion.

It was your post I went and looked up to find that

B T · 10-06-2016, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiumai

I'm seeing about the same IATs as you; typically 30 deg F over ambient (based on my vent gauge plugged into the OBD2 port). i was kicking around the nutty idea of 'what would happen if someone reroutes the passenger-side air conditioning vent into the air intake?' if you normally drive with the AC on.

like this? Super Chiller

armstrom · 10-06-2016, 04:33 PM

diverting AC air to the intake would do nothing. A more interesting (but more involved) hack I've actually seen done is to re-route your AC lines into a water tank to chill the A/W intercooler water supply. If you are getting IAT's that are too high during street driving one of the best things you can do is add a reservoir/tank to increase the total water volume of the system. Water has a very high specific heat capacity. Adding extra water allows you to absorb more heat energy per degree of water temp increase. This gives you the net effect of distributing the heat dissipation out over a longer time so any quick spikes due to spirited driving can be absorbed.

This behavior is what makes air to water intercoolers so great for street cars. It also makes things more challenging for race cars since they tend to be dumping heat into the system at a more constant rate rather than in spikes like you see on the street. The water can eventually become heat-soaked leading to higher IATs

shiumai · 10-06-2016, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armstrom

diverting AC air to the intake would do nothing.

Would it be 'nothing' or 'negligible'? I'm assuming it'd be the same as people installing a CAI - to get the coolest air going into the intake. however, if the AC air isn't cold enough to make a difference when it's compressed going into the SC, that makes sense.

Paulo86 · 10-06-2016, 08:18 PM

And there it goes :

Face to face on the graph :
Mxp4in1el header, mxp overpipe,invidia catless front pipe, and invidia q300 98ron tune

Ace type a 350 header, fujitsubo double resonated catless front pipe and invidia q300 98 ron ace tune.
+15hp +15nm !

Car feels so smooth ! That torque <3

One more time thanks to delicious tuning for their amazing tune ! I'm so happy with it!

Thanks to ACE for this amazing header !

And thanks to FRSport for the fast delivery and this amazing product the fujitsubo double resonated catless front pipe !

Next mods :

5.125 cusco final drive (i'm AT)
And maybe delicious flex fuel kit

Im_SPEED · 10-14-2016, 11:15 PM

Any one leave the cover off the left side injectors? The big heavy shield looking thing looks like it's mostly for noise I'm guessing. Opinions?

The Racers Line · 10-15-2016, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Im_SPEED

Any one leave the cover off the left side injectors? The big heavy shield looking thing looks like it's mostly for noise I'm guessing. Opinions?

It's also part of the ground for the fueling ECU. You can ditch it if you make a bracket.

Im_SPEED · 10-15-2016, 12:14 AM

The fueling ecu is on the right side. Talking about the left side.

The Racers Line · 10-15-2016, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Im_SPEED

The fueling ecu is on the right side. Talking about the left side.

Oh my bad. That cover only fits on with modification anyways. You are supposed to leave it off.

Im_SPEED · 10-15-2016, 04:06 PM

Need help asap just installed and no start. Not running a tune. But you would think it would still fire up. I have fuel everything is connected.

The Racers Line · 10-15-2016, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Im_SPEED

Need help asap just installed and no start. Not running a tune. But you would think it would still fire up. I have fuel everything is connected.

It will not start. The T-MAP sensor is very different then stock. You need the tune.

Im_SPEED · 10-15-2016, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Racers Line

It will not start. The T-MAP sensor is very different then stock. You need the tune.

that is 100% you know form experience?

shiumai · 10-15-2016, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Im_SPEED

Not running a tune.

Why would you do that?

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10-06-2016, 04:33 PM	#1698
armstrom Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Drives: none Location: nowhere Posts: 225 Thanks: 39 Thanked 124 Times in 67 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	diverting AC air to the intake would do nothing. A more interesting (but more involved) hack I've actually seen done is to re-route your AC lines into a water tank to chill the A/W intercooler water supply. If you are getting IAT's that are too high during street driving one of the best things you can do is add a reservoir/tank to increase the total water volume of the system. Water has a very high specific heat capacity. Adding extra water allows you to absorb more heat energy per degree of water temp increase. This gives you the net effect of distributing the heat dissipation out over a longer time so any quick spikes due to spirited driving can be absorbed. This behavior is what makes air to water intercoolers so great for street cars. It also makes things more challenging for race cars since they tend to be dumping heat into the system at a more constant rate rather than in spikes like you see on the street. The water can eventually become heat-soaked leading to higher IATs

10-06-2016, 08:18 PM	#1700
Paulo86 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: Toyota GT86 euro version Location: France Posts: 102 Thanks: 47 Thanked 79 Times in 31 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	And there it goes : Face to face on the graph : Mxp4in1el header, mxp overpipe,invidia catless front pipe, and invidia q300 98ron tune Ace type a 350 header, fujitsubo double resonated catless front pipe and invidia q300 98 ron ace tune. +15hp +15nm ! Car feels so smooth ! That torque <3 One more time thanks to delicious tuning for their amazing tune ! I'm so happy with it! Thanks to ACE for this amazing header ! And thanks to FRSport for the fast delivery and this amazing product the fujitsubo double resonated catless front pipe ! Next mods : 5.125 cusco final drive (i'm AT) And maybe delicious flex fuel kit

10-14-2016, 11:15 PM	#1701
Im_SPEED Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: FRS hot lava Location: Oregon Posts: 151 Thanks: 9 Thanked 32 Times in 16 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Any one leave the cover off the left side injectors? The big heavy shield looking thing looks like it's mostly for noise I'm guessing. Opinions?

10-15-2016, 12:14 AM	#1703
Im_SPEED Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: FRS hot lava Location: Oregon Posts: 151 Thanks: 9 Thanked 32 Times in 16 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	The fueling ecu is on the right side. Talking about the left side.

10-15-2016, 04:06 PM	#1705
Im_SPEED Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: FRS hot lava Location: Oregon Posts: 151 Thanks: 9 Thanked 32 Times in 16 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Need help asap just installed and no start. Not running a tune. But you would think it would still fire up. I have fuel everything is connected.

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