Wheel stud replacement

[Rustyspoon]

It took 5 years, but my studs are starting to strip now. Sigh.

[m86]

One of my rear wheel nuts seized. I knew something was wrong when I started undoing it since it was hard to rotate and end up seizing mid way out. No idea why, I'm sure it wasn't cross threaded, my guess is that dirt got to the threads.

Had to break it by forcing it with my long torque wrench (I know, not ideal).
A new stud was $9.25 at a Toyota dealer.

About the installation, a few things I found out that I wasn't sure about and might help someone else:
* No need to remove the hub or the hand brake thing, stock sized studs slide in easily.
* No need for special tools or washers. Just put a wheel on it and make it tight with a regular nut (with the usual 90ft/tq).
* My brake disk came off easily by screwing a M10 (or M8?) in the little holes.

[GrantedTaken]

What's the best way to remove a busted stud?
Just hammer it out?

Which side is a PITA to replace?
Rear wheels because of parking brakes?

[Dake]

Did it snap clean off flush with the hub surface? I'd just use a punch, or even another bolt of a slightly smaller diameter, put it over the broken stud and smack it out the back.

Rear is a little more crowded, and can be complicated by needing to remove the drum which tends to rust to the hub.

[Stomachbuzz]

Originally Posted by Rustyspoon

It took 5 years, but my studs are starting to strip now. Sigh.

Is this really an issue?? I searched for "2013 frs wheel stud" and all of the results were performances parts websites saying "stripped wheel studs? Try these ARP ones. It will never happen again!"

And I'm thinking "stripped wheel studs...? wut...? I've never even heard of that. Must be a weird marketing gimmick."
Seriously though - I've owned nearly 40 cars, and worked on countless others. Never heard of stripped wheel studs. Broken ones? Sure, plenty of times...which is why I'm here.

Originally Posted by m86

One of my rear wheel nuts seized. I knew something was wrong when I started undoing it since it was hard to rotate and end up seizing mid way out. No idea why, I'm sure it wasn't cross threaded, my guess is that dirt got to the threads.

Had to break it by forcing it with my long torque wrench (I know, not ideal).
A new stud was $9.25 at a Toyota dealer.

About the installation, a few things I found out that I wasn't sure about and might help someone else:
* No need to remove the hub or the hand brake thing, stock sized studs slide in easily.
* No need for special tools or washers. Just put a wheel on it and make it tight with a regular nut (with the usual 90ft/tq).
* My brake disk came off easily by screwing a M10 (or M8?) in the little holes.

Wow. Nearly exact same thing happened to me. Really weird. I had never seen anything quite like it.
My FRS, like all of them, is a fairly new car. Only ~7 years old. Newest vehicle I've ever owned, but it's got some odd issues with respect to fasteners being difficult.

I was removing a front lug nut with a battery powered impact gun. 19 out of 20 came off perfectly on the first try. This one wouldn't. I tried 'rocking it' back and forth. Wouldn't budge.
I just thought the impact gun was weak, so I got out the breaker bar with a socket. Immediately sheared the lug stud.

I was beyond shocked. I hadn't broken a wheel stud in years. Maybe only 2 or 3 times in my life.
My car lived in Alabama for its first 5 years, so rust or road salt is not in question here.
And it's a closed lug nut.

Now I've got the dilemma of where to buy 1 wheel stud. I can buy a box of 10 for $8 off Rockauto, but then there's shipping...
Or I guess I could go to the dealer and have them say $12.43 and be irritated about it...

Apparently ARP wheel studs are $6 each ($30 for 5 pack), which blew my mind.


Thank you for the additional notes though, very helpful.
I was worried about the exact things you mentioned. The car I previously broke lug studs on was a complete crapbox 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. I swear the studs were made of liquid candy, and you could NOT slip them in from the back, even with generous amounts of hammering. The entire hub had to be removed. It was insane.

[YamahaR86]

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

Now I've got the dilemma of where to buy 1 wheel stud.

Had about 4 of mine seize and break. I used the stronger dorman brand from the autoparts store and no issues. Was a pain the first 2 times as I had my brother use a mallet. The next 2 he wasn't around so I went to harbor freight and bought the ball bearing press which is so easy to use. I also used it when putting in new brake pads, useful tool.



I did replace my wheels + lugs with open lugs ones as well, so since it seized I just bought a new set of lugs that are of the same set.

[D-rek07]

I've had one seize and replaced it with a Dorman for $2.99 at Autozone. Seems like a win to me

[Evan55]

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

Now I've got the dilemma of where to buy 1 wheel stud. I can buy a box of 10 for $8 off Rockauto, but then there's shipping...
Or I guess I could go to the dealer and have them say $12.43 and be irritated about it...

Both Advance Auto and Autozone have dorman wheel studs for ~$2 each. I walked in a picked up a couple the other day. They are stamped grade 10.9 so they may actually be better than OE.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...chTerm=610-566
https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...chText=6105661


edit: I see you are in the DC area, pretty much every Advance Auto in the area has them in stock.

[Stomachbuzz]

I believe my course of action will be going to AAP or Autozone to get one.

Dorman is complete trash in my opinion, but how hard could a wheel stud be?

[Opie]

The "problem" with Subaru lug studs breaking is usually due to being over torqued. They are made to only be torqued to around 89 ft/lb. Most shops use air or electric impacts that tighten them more than that and over time they stretch and seize or break.

They are somewhat easy to replace, and inexpensive. I have made the switch to ARP's on my track car, but in my 25 years of owning Subaru's have only had to replace maybe 3 for actual breakage. Matter of fact the 20 I took out of my BRZ I kept and use them on the rebuilds we get that have broken ones.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by Opie

The "problem" with Subaru lug studs breaking is usually due to being over torqued. They are made to only be torqued to around 89 ft/lb. Most shops use air or electric impacts that tighten them more than that and over time they stretch and seize or break.

They are somewhat easy to replace, and inexpensive. I have made the switch to ARP's on my track car, but in my 25 years of owning Subaru's have only had to replace maybe 3 for actual breakage. Matter of fact the 20 I took out of my BRZ I kept and use them on the rebuilds we get that have broken ones.

I've never had a stud failure on my cars. We have had 1 on my Mom's FXT. Part of the issue is the studs/torquing, but I think the OE lug nuts are extra soft. We have found stretched threads on many. Bad thread on lug nut+90 ft/lbs will wreck a stud really quick.

[Stomachbuzz]

Helluva time getting a replacement.

Obviously (which only occurred to me at the parts counter( I need the stud and the nut.

Advance Auto Parts did not have it in stock, nor do they usually stock it.
Same story with Napa and a Toyota dealer.
Both AAP and Napa had plenty of studs for other cars, even Toyotas, but they couldn't search for one of similar length in their computers.
I could have used a 2012 Camry stud, for example, but aN FRS aftermarket parts site showed FRS studs to me 41mm, while AAP's computer showed the camry stud to be 31mm.
I thought that was odd, but decided not to risk it.

Subaru dealer had plenty in stock, FWIW

[Evan55]

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

Subaru dealer had plenty in stock, FWIW

Thats because its a RWD Impreza. M12x 1.25 is what subaru uses across its line since forever.

[Stomachbuzz]

Originally Posted by Evan55

Thats because its a RWD Impreza. M12x 1.25 is what subaru uses across its line since forever.

M12 x 1.25 is very common, but it's the length that is more specific