Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by riboyster

Okay guys, my turn.
Car was misfiring (I think) today on the way home from work. When I got home, I did a few low-load run ups. The first few were okay. On the 3rd one I got avid misfiring in the 4k-5k range, to the point where I threw a code and the motor dropped itself to idle.
I turned off the motor, wrote down the code(s), and restarted.
The idle works fine, but now when I use any little bit of petal, the motor stalls immediately. After several attempts to get above idle, the idle became rough, with my parameters all over the place. AFR was spiking.
The codes displayed were P1325, P0300, and U0075(which im pretty sure is from the odb connection being shitty).

Anyone got any ideas? Very inconvenient, because I'm putting the intercooler in tomorrow.

P0300 is multiple misfire code, most likely caused by your P1325 code. Which usually is caused by a bad ground, or bad coil pack.

[riboyster]

I've hacked it up to a vacuum leak. Was messing around with the screws holding the charger to the manifold the other day.
Unless it's my ECU not being grounded well enough. Dunno though, it's been good for 5 days, until today.
You think the screws came a little loose and are letting some air in? I felt very reassured when my openflash tablet indicated misfires on all of the cylinders as opposed to just one.

[brybot]

Selling:

Raceseng 72.5mm pulley - $100
IC kit, never installed, is used. Have blanking plugs for IC or non-IC setups - $900

Will post or send pics if anyone is interested.

[kev0]

Originally Posted by brybot

Selling:

Raceseng 72.5mm pulley - $100
IC kit, never installed, is used. Have blanking plugs for IC or non-IC setups - $900

Will post or send pics if anyone is interested.

pm'd.

[riboyster]

Original vacuum leak problem fixed. Now I've got one at the rear water inlet for the charger core. Anyone have this happen? Is there a quick fix, or will I have to take the SC back off and open it up?
Thanks dudes

[sqd]

Okay, what oil temps are you people seeing without an oil cooler? I read my temp with Ecutek, and it's too high for comfort by just light driving..

210 non-intercooled on gasoline tune, no oil cooler (that I was under the impression it wouldnt be required for street use), and my oil temp by just normal driving after idling for a while, was 95C, which is about 200F. And it wasn't exactly hot outside either, it's evening and the temp was about 15C/59F.

When I gave it some throttle and did like two short pulls, it went up to 105C/220F..
I'm on a 5W30 oil.

How accurate is the Ecutek reading? Im guessing very, since it uses the same sender the ECU does.

Imagine a more hot ambient temp and more than just a short sprint, how on earth would that hold up?

[jflogerzi]

With an intercooler and and e85 and the Jackson racing dual radiator I can see 200-210 with 90-100f outside air temps. This is after the car warms up and I beat on on. You got plenty of headroom. These cars run semi warm on the oil in stock form. I would watch coolant temps, Intake air temps. I would say between 220-230f for oil and your still good for a street driven car on 5w30

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by sqd

Okay, what oil temps are you people seeing without an oil cooler? I read my temp with Ecutek, and it's too high for comfort by just light driving..

210 non-intercooled on gasoline tune, no oil cooler (that I was under the impression it wouldnt be required for street use), and my oil temp by just normal driving after idling for a while, was 95C, which is about 200F. And it wasn't exactly hot outside either, it's evening and the temp was about 15C/59F.

When I gave it some throttle and did like two short pulls, it went up to 105C/220F..
I'm on a 5W30 oil.

How accurate is the Ecutek reading? Im guessing very, since it uses the same sender the ECU does.

Imagine a more hot ambient temp and more than just a short sprint, how on earth would that hold up?

Normal operating temp is 212f on 0w20 once fully warmed up, 220f is nothing. 240f is still fine but pushing the limits of 0w20. Some people will run at 270f and still have sufficient oil pressure although really not recommended. Regardless I wouldn’t be worried with your temps.

[sqd]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

With an intercooler and and e85 and the Jackson racing dual radiator I can see 200-210 with 90-100f outside air temps. This is after the car warms up and I beat on on. You got plenty of headroom. These cars run semi warm on the oil in stock form. I would watch coolant temps, Intake air temps. I would say between 220-230f for oil and your still good for a street driven car on 5w30

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Normal operating temp is 212f on 0w20 once fully warmed up, 220f is nothing. 240f is still fine but pushing the limits of 0w20. Some people will run at 270f and still have sufficient oil pressure although really not recommended. Regardless I wouldn’t be worried with your temps.

Oh, good info. Thanks guys!

[Regular]

Hi all,

Just put on an intercooled 210 kit on '17 BRZ a couple weeks ago and am loving it! Just wondering a couple things:

1) What's the best way/time to change the oil in the blower given everyone's experience with it?

AND

2) What engine oil are you guys using now? Still stock 0w-20 weight?

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Regular

Hi all,

Just put on an intercooled 210 kit on '17 BRZ a couple weeks ago and am loving it! Just wondering a couple things:

1) What's the best way/time to change the oil in the blower given everyone's experience with it?

AND

2) What engine oil are you guys using now? Still stock 0w-20 weight?

Just keep an eye on it, and the normal interval in manual should be fine, I believe it says 30k miles. If you have the sight glass, it should cover the sight glass about 90-95% with a very tiny air bubble on top. As long as you don't go low you should be fine with that. You need a syringe with a tube hose on the end to suck it out, and then refill.

Oil depends on weather conditions (hot vs cold climate) and car usage (DD vs track car)

Vehicle Owners manual recommends 0w-20 for a reason, that is what the engine was designed to use. If you do not see oil temps above 110C/230F, you will probably do more harm then good using a heavier oil, especially if your car sees cold weather. I use 1qt 0w-30 and fill the rest with 0W-20 it only has about a 1% negative effect at 40C/100F , with about a 10% positive effect at 100C/212F (normal operating temps).

If i tracked the car i would maybe switch to a 5w-30, or 0w-30, but really depends on what your oil temps are reaching and the resulting oil pressure. Generally you want to use a lower weight when reasonably possible.

[jflogerzi]

Loving the power but starting to get used to the near 300whp.... It's true what ppl say used get use to the power and you want more...

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Loving the power but starting to get used to the near 300whp.... It's true what ppl say used get use to the power and you want more...

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

I feel you on that lol.
My dream now is a built FA225 and then swap to the sprintex 335. Would be a monster. Although $$. But easily 100+ ft lbs and whp more.
Would obviously be cheaper to do a built FA20 with a turbo and easily hit 450whp.
But that instant throttle response, low end torque and whine, are unrivaled by the sprintex 335.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

I feel you on that lol.

My dream now is a built FA225 and then swap to the sprintex 335. Would be a monster. Although $$. But easily 100+ ft lbs and whp more.

Would obviously be cheaper to do a built FA20 with a turbo and easily hit 450whp.

But that instant throttle response, low end torque and whine, are unrivaled by the sprintex 335.

I when this becomes a track toy and I have something to tow with I will put a turbo in but till then not worth it due to CA smog laws

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk