Can someone ease my mind a bit when it comes to engines blowing up?

[Flashfire88]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

2013 series 10 65k on obo. 3rd owner. Boosted at 10.5psi and e85. Knock on wood. Tuner said logs looked great and he left a bit on the table for safety. 1500 miles so far car drives better than stock. @Xero-Limit Mike did a fantastic job with my etune

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Run a vin check, the car might have gotten the valve work for the recall that was posted already done. Assuming everything on the block works the way it's supposed to the first thing that should go out are the rods.

I've also seen a lot of people with spun bearings and nasty rod knocks because of it but that's because they didn't keep their oil temps in check or starved the engine of oil during sustained high G turns at the track.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Flashfire88

Hey bud,

For reference my BRZ had an avo turbo kit and I was doing 12.5psi towards the last year I owned it, I slapt it on the car as soon as it hit 2 months right after I bought it new so around 2,000ish miles. I would track it often and for the 4 years I had it I never ran into a problem. The ONLY issue I had was that my clutch starts slipping at 3.5K and would grab again at 4K so that had to get upgraded.

Also Florida heat so the car was in constant 90+F temps during summer and 75+ during winter season. I would say get a really good reputable tuner.

Edit:
Forgot to mention 93 Octane & Stock block

Now search for the OP's most recent topics.

I'm currently estimating around an 80% chance the motor isn't going to see new years eve from within the engine bay.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Flashfire88

Run a vin check, the car might have gotten the valve work for the recall that was posted already done. Assuming everything on the block works the way it's supposed to the first thing that should go out are the rods.



I've also seen a lot of people with spun bearings and nasty rod knocks because of it but that's because they didn't keep their oil temps in check or starved the engine of oil during sustained high G turns at the track.

It was not affected by the value spring. Already checked the bank vin. I have a JC racing dual radiator. On the next change I am going to change the oil pan to a baffled one. So I am hoping I have done everything on the supporting mods. Running 5w30 and have adjusted the fans to come on sooner with the tune.

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[ZionsWrath]

I money shifted mine and it ran two years of track use before engine started knocking. No oil consumption or other signs of a problem except when it started making loud knocking two years later.

It may seem like the engine is made of glass when you look for these engine blown threads but it really isn't bad.

Oh, mine was a 2013 bought May 2012, first production run.

Hope this helps.

[kev0]

Originally Posted by soundman98

Now search for the OP's most recent topics.

I'm currently estimating around an 80% chance the motor isn't going to see new years eve from within the engine bay.

Eh, most issues have been fixed. ABS and Slip light was due from a tune. Had the SC 'rebuilt'. Only issue now is running lean from leaky intake pipe. If it blows, I'll deliver you a rod since I'm in Chicago as well.

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by kev0

Eh, most issues have been fixed. ABS and Slip light was due from a tune. Had the SC 'rebuilt'. Only issue now is running lean from leaky intake pipe. If it blows, I'll deliver you a rod since I'm in Chicago as well.

So if you don't mind me asking, has the total repair cost/install still lower than if you bought a new SC kit? Or ... more expensive?

Or should I haven't even ask cause I kinda know what the answer is?

[kev0]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

So if you don't mind me asking, has the total repair cost/install still lower than if you bought a new SC kit? Or ... more expensive?

Or should I haven't even ask cause I kinda know what the answer is?

A bit under $1000 for install + SC rebuild (resealing SC and new gaskets)