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02-23-2019, 08:25 PM | #1 |
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Advice for buying used wheels?
Just curious if anyone has some advice to offer on buying used wheels?
Going to look at some used TE37s tomorrow. So far I've got: Check for authentication / size Check for bends - is there a good way to do this in someones garage / driveway? Check tires for wear / damage with a depth checker Thanks! Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk |
02-23-2019, 08:54 PM | #2 |
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Well, that's always the downside on used wheels. It's really up to the seller how honest of a person they are, and why they are selling their wheels.
Besides what you said there is not much you can check in a garage. The only other thing you can check is to feel for any dip/bumps on the inside of the wheels. Personally I would take them to a tire shop and have them checked for leaks and rebalance. As for tires, eh they can be easily replaced. Good luck.
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02-24-2019, 12:59 AM | #3 |
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As far as authenticity outside of paperwork and stickers, knowing what kind of marks, machining, colors/finishes, and other features will help you identify authentic wheels.
--Also, you can look for areas where the paint or metal looks patchy or the surface is not quite the same for repairs. Nothing bad about a repair (a good shop can get it almost new), but it will tell you about the character of your seller if they aren't disclosing with you. As far as size goes, usually authentic wheels have the diameter, width, and offset stamped/cast into them. It will usually look something like "17 x9 JJ," and offset is usually nearby in mm If you have a relatively flat garage surface and unmounted tires, rolling the bare wheel can tell you if there is a bend if the motion is irregular or wobbly. Otherwise, rolling a wheel can give you a rough idea if the wheel is straight by observing it. As far as tires go, check the manufacture date. That will give you an idea of how old the tires are and if they're still good (outside of treadwear depth). Also look for sidewall bulges and potential patch/repairs. Like @Mr.ac said, if you don't have any experience with wheels or tires, a wheel/tire shop is probably your best bet on getting a 2nd opinion as far as structural integrity. Not all shops deal with Import/JDM wheels, so they might not know a real from a fake as far as brands. |
02-24-2019, 07:13 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
and generally speaking, don't waste time running any tires older then 5-7 years from the date of manufacture.
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02-24-2019, 07:31 PM | #5 |
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i'd check stickers (of size/misc manufacturer notes about them in japanese/model/certification and alike, not branding stickers on face of wheels, which often can be bought separately for cheap) and stampings on wheel for authenticity.
For state .. i'd probably care less for scratch marks/curb rush/minor paint defects, but would care for there to be no cracks/bends and such, and if put on rebalancing rig it shouldn't be too off. Paint imho can be redone for fraction of cost of used forged wheels, but i wouldn't be willing to pay for wheels that need some re-welding, hummering out and so on. Used tires .. about the only time i'd consider them, is if i needed few cheap sets to burn on drifting session. Not for normal proper track or daily driving use. In my book 3 years are max for tires regardless wear, most tires drop a lot of initial grip once wear past first 30% even if thread depth is within legal minimum, and price for used tires usually is cheaper proportionally to thread depth left. So why pay half a price for half thread depth, if you can get full thread depth for normal price, yet may also enjoy when tires are at their best/new. I might consider tires mounted on wheels if they don't add up to price and are freebies thrown in for extra wheel protection during shipping .. except if shipping is from afar or even more so - overseas. Extra shipping weight and size of tires too may add to shipping costs sometimes to extent of what same tire set may cost, so why. |
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