Got remote starter installed. Now might have some issues.

[Devante]

So I got a remote starter install yesterday at Best Buy. And maybe I'm paranoid but I think there are a couple of little electrical anomalies going on now so will you guys look at your cars and tell me if they do the following things?

• When the lights are in auto mode, can you press forward on the stick to lock on brights? I can't. It works on manual lights though.
• When you press the console icon on the left that looks like a car with some squiggly lines under it which maybe traction control? Does it do anything? Does that same symbol appear in the cluster? Mine doesn't seem to do anything at all but the other three buttons work.
• I set speedometer lights to very low. During the day when I turned the car on, The gauge pointers were at maximum brightness as well as the digital speed readout and a couple of other little things like my time. However when the automatic night mode detection comes on or if I just manually put the lights into the on position, all the lights dim to the setting that I set on the little dimmer wheel. Basically when I put it in auto lights, the speedometer lights are at maximum and I don't remember them doing that before.

Thanks for letting me know guys!

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by Devante

So I got a remote starter install yesterday at Best Buy. And maybe I'm paranoid but I think there are a couple of little electrical anomalies going on now so will you guys look at your cars and tell me if they do the following things?

• When the lights are in auto mode, can you press forward on the stick to lock on brights? I can't. It works on manual lights though.
  • High beam lock only works at night time/full head lights. Try again at night when the Auto mode detects that it is night time
• When you press the console icon on the left that looks like a car with some squiggly lines under it which maybe traction control? Does it do anything? Does that same symbol appear in the cluster? Mine doesn't seem to do anything at all but the other three buttons work.
  • A short press should disable vehicle slip (an icon on the dash should come up). A long press will disable vehicle slip and TCS (two icons will come up). This only works when the engine is running
    
• I set speedometer lights to very low. During the day when I turned the car on, The gauge pointers were at maximum brightness as well as the digital speed readout and a couple of other little things like my time. However when the automatic night mode detection comes on or if I just manually put the lights into the on position, all the lights dim to the setting that I set on the little dimmer wheel. Basically when I put it in auto lights, the speedometer lights are at maximum and I don't remember them doing that before.
  • In the daytime, all of the cluster lights default to maximum brightness. It's always like this. The cluster lights dim in any nighttime mode unless the scroller is on the maximum brightness setting

Thanks for letting me know guys!

See above in red

[soundman98]

and a short press of the t/c button will illuminate the light, but then turn off at 25 mph i believe.


of note, none of the issues listed have anything to do with any systems or wiring that any remote starting system would connect to in any regard. remote starters connect to 7 primary circuits in the vehicle. starter, power, ignition 1, ignition 2, parking lights, brake pedal, and immobilizer.
starter obviously starts the car.
ignition 1 and 2, sometimes also referred to as 'accessory 1 and 2' are triggered circuits that control power to things like the radio, hvac, and window controls, among other things. these circuits usually turn on with the key, so the remote unit has to imitate the key being there to make the engine ecu work.
parking lights are used as a visual indicator of alarm functions.
brake pedal wiring is used as a failsafe/disable to the remote start function.
the immobilizer circuit is usually entirely bypassed via a few different methods(all keys now have a digital chip that communicates with the car to verify that the key being used is legitimate, without this digital communication, the car doesn't start), this fakes the car out into thinking the key is present to allow the starter circuit to do it's thing.

as i said, none of those connections would only effect the issues you list. if any of these things were improperly connected, the number of things wrong would be much more significant than 3 items.

[Devante]

Thanks everyone! Guess I was being paranoid. I honestly didn't remember the speedometer brightness being max in day mode.

Originally Posted by soundman98

and a short press of the t/c button will illuminate the light, but then turn off at 25 mph i believe.


of note, none of the issues listed have anything to do with any systems or wiring that any remote starting system would connect to in any regard. remote starters connect to 7 primary circuits in the vehicle. starter, power, ignition 1, ignition 2, parking lights, brake pedal, and immobilizer.
starter obviously starts the car.
ignition 1 and 2, sometimes also referred to as 'accessory 1 and 2' are triggered circuits that control power to things like the radio, hvac, and window controls, among other things. these circuits usually turn on with the key, so the remote unit has to imitate the key being there to make the engine ecu work.
parking lights are used as a visual indicator of alarm functions.
brake pedal wiring is used as a failsafe/disable to the remote start function.
the immobilizer circuit is usually entirely bypassed via a few different methods(all keys now have a digital chip that communicates with the car to verify that the key being used is legitimate, without this digital communication, the car doesn't start), this fakes the car out into thinking the key is present to allow the starter circuit to do it's thing.

as i said, none of those connections would only effect the issues you list. if any of these things were improperly connected, the number of things wrong would be much more significant than 3 items.

Interesting and thanks for the writeup.

So if there's a wire specifically for the brake disabler, is there a way to bypass me having to put my actual key and turn it to the second on position in order for the car not to turn off when I press the brake? In other words, I don't want to have to use my key at all (even if it's less secure).

[soundman98]

that's a liability issue that i don't want any part in. the wiring diagrams aren't that hard to look up and change to any method till your hearts content, but then i also suspect there's a reason you went to a low voltage installer for it as well.

[Devante]

Originally Posted by soundman98

that's a liability issue that i don't want any part in. the wiring diagrams aren't that hard to look up and change to any method till your hearts content, but then i also suspect there's a reason you went to a low voltage installer for it as well.

I highly doubt someone giving someone else non-professional advice on a social forum would hold up in court if I decided to sue. :P'

Well anyway, I had it installed because the warranty is only honored if installed by a licensed installer.

Well if anyone wanted to speak in hypotheticals, feel free. ;>

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Devante

Thanks everyone! Guess I was being paranoid. I honestly didn't remember the speedometer brightness being max in day mode.






Interesting and thanks for the writeup.

So if there's a wire specifically for the brake disabler, is there a way to bypass me having to put my actual key and turn it to the second on position in order for the car not to turn off when I press the brake? In other words, I don't want to have to use my key at all (even if it's less secure).

Let me answer your question with another question:

If you don't have a key in your ignition switch, how are you going to shut your car off when you go to park it?

[Grady]

Originally Posted by Devante

I highly doubt someone giving someone else non-professional advice on a social forum would hold up in court if I decided to sue. :P'>

Hold up in Court or not is not the issue. If you end up in Court you have already lost.

[Devante]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

Let me answer your question with another question:



If you don't have a key in your ignition switch, how are you going to shut your car off when you go to park it?

Hit the starter button on the key fob to shut the car off.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[x808drifter]

Remember: Always leave the car in gear when parked.

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Devante

Hit the starter button on the key fob to shut the car off.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

And will you remember to do that (or BE ABLE to do that) in an emergency or panic situation, such as your throttle plate sticking wide open in a malfunction or a brake failure?

Oh yeah, one more question: How will you be able to lock or unlock the steering wheel without using your key?

[soundman98]

exactly why i didn't want to get into it. way too many modifications to too many systems and wires. the likelyhood of something going wrong increases exponentially to the point i can already hear "BUT SOME GUY ON TEH INTERNET TOLD ME TO" as a rebuttal to an insurance adjuster...

[PetrolioBenzina]

Originally Posted by soundman98

exactly why i didn't want to get into it. way too many modifications to too many systems and wires. the likelyhood of something going wrong increases exponentially to the point i can already hear "BUT SOME GUY ON TEH INTERNET TOLD ME TO" as a rebuttal to an insurance adjuster...

"BUT SOME GUY ON TEH INTERNET TOLD ME TO" has become the default answer. A popular mod to the last bike I had was the "flip and grind", flipping and grinding the required clearance on the rear (single shock) supension link. People were surprised when the link broke after.