04-15-2012, 11:52 PM | #71 |
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I was considering the GTI as well. I test drove the manual for about 5 minutes (before I decided that making a fool of myself in the dealer's parking lot was a bad idea) and then the DSG. It felt pretty nice, but somehow I find it a bit bland. The engine doesn't sound as eager as I had imagined. I know it is quicker in a straight line and has more torque than the BRZ, but the higher-revving FA20 sounds nicer (at least through my computer speakers). And it's easy to mistake the GTI for a plain old Golf, save for those trademark wheels. But besides the BRZ it's probably the most well-balanced car for under $30k new that I could get based on my criteria... It also annoys me that a lot of refreshed models are coming out in the next few months. I hope I don't end up getting a car and regretting it.
Right now, it's looking like: 1) Wait for BRZ 2) WRX or GTI 3) Kill myself because too many choices Anyway, I'm going to the North Houston Subaru dealership next Saturday to check out the BRZ in person, finally. That should give me a lot more insight on whether I really want to wait for it or not. |
04-16-2012, 08:29 AM | #72 |
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Another question for you guys: How do you REALLY test drive new cars at dealerships, anyway? If the sales person sits in with you, do they usually let you speed around corners and such? I feel like driving at normal speed limits on a normal road or freeway isn't going to show any of the handling characteristics of most cars.
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04-16-2012, 10:35 AM | #73 | |
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1. Always go to a dealer where I know the surrounding roads well enough to plan my own route. if I don't know the roads scout them out in advance. 2. Always take someone along with me so the Salesperson is less likely to go with me, but if they do, they are in the back. 3. Tell the salesperson up front what I plan to do. If they don't like it, I walk. 4. Plan a route with a section of highway (at least 55mph), a section of "city street" and a section of rural street. 5. Drive the car as if I own it, but not as if I stole it. If its a sports car, I drive it like one. If its a convertible, I drive it with the top up and down, etc. 6. I always do a 0-60-0 test (letting the salesperson know whats going on in advance of course). I want to know how the car handles under both extremes. Never had a problem as long as I let them know in advance. The salesguy wants to make a sale and doesn't own the car so they are usually OK with it.
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04-16-2012, 11:21 AM | #74 | |
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04-16-2012, 12:07 PM | #75 |
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Driving School would have been my suggestion, probably cheaper than renting a car for a day. It really will take only an hour to master if the instructor knows what he/she is doing.
Most important thing, remember default position should be clutch IN not clutch OUT. Your tendency when things start going wrong will be to lift your foot. Always push back down if things don't feel right.
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04-16-2012, 12:10 PM | #76 |
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^I got confused between this thread and the 'driving a manual' thread ... but it seems the advice applies to both
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04-16-2012, 07:06 PM | #77 |
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04-16-2012, 07:48 PM | #78 |
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04-16-2012, 07:51 PM | #79 | |
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04-17-2012, 01:37 PM | #80 |
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Other reason I want a backseat: extended trunk space. I have a massive computer tower that I've spent countless hours and over $2000 on, and I'd rather not have a shipping service transport that all the way from TX to CA. I also have a giant 30" monitor that is equally fragile. Being able to transport both of them in my own car should save me some grief.
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04-17-2012, 02:05 PM | #81 |
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From my other thread:
"Got answers to my questions... 1) Will I be paying the $26,245 MSRP for the car? 2) How long is the pre-order list right now, and what's my position? 3) Is there an estimate of when my car will arrive? Says the sales manager: 1. Ounce the vehicle has been built We will update you with MSRP. 2. NO telling How LONG your Position is Could be as early as Nov or Dec 3. NO NO No As "early Nov or Dec"? I've made it very clear to these people that I won't be able to buy the car from them if it's going to arrive later than July, yet it took almost 10 email correspondences before they finally give me the answer I don't want to hear. I'm 100% aware that the dealerships aren't getting all of their cars shipped at once, but the sales rep made it sound like I'd be getting mine some time between May and July, which is the whole reason I wanted to ask them to clarify. Bad service is bad..." I am pretty pissed, but not surprised given all the information on this forum. But they shouldn't have made it sound like I'd be getting my car in the summer if they knew I was near the bottom of the list. Hell, I STILL don't know my position on the list, and it's the third time I've asked. What should I do? |
04-17-2012, 03:40 PM | #82 |
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I'd say this all depends on how badly you want the car... If you can suffice with an older but reliable car to get you to Cali and you're serious about getting the BRZ then that is an option. Trade in the car you bought to get you around once your car arrives (BRZ).
If you're deadset on having to get a 2010+ car by June then it sounds like you'll have to pull your deposit back and get an alternate vehicle. Just because you can't get the car you want now doesn't mean you can't trade what you have to get now for the BRZ or FR-S. Just weigh your options and if you decide to pull your deposit out, make sure you get something you know you'll enjoy. Third, you could always start headhunting dealerships in your surrounding area or those which you may pass by on your way to the west coast. You may find a Subaru dealer located in the middle of nowhere without their BRZ allocations being made. May be hard to do, but it all depends on your drive and desire to locate one! Finally, I don't know how realistic this is but perhaps calling Subaru of America could help you do the above mentioned scenerio: Locate a dealer that has open allocations. I don't know if they could or would but may save you the trouble. Good luck! |
04-17-2012, 03:58 PM | #83 |
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Good advice, but how much of the "stop-gap" car's value would be lost in trading it in? Even if I only put a few thousands miles on it by the time I can get a BRZ in California, won't the dealership try to undercut the KBB value?
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04-17-2012, 04:05 PM | #84 | |
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I'm in a similar situation with my current car. I bought it because nothing else was on the market last year that appealed to me so I settled. Of course the next year here comes the BRZ! So yeah, if I can swing a private sell I'll probably be getting about $2-3k more than trading. I'm scared that my car will arrive in a surprise though and I'll be stuck trading. I can do the trade, but would rather do the private sell. Thinking I may end up having to toss another 2-3k down the toilet makes me sick! My car is newer though so an older used car probably woudn't lose value that fast. If I had to recommend an older car to get if you were trying to maintain some value would be something like a G35 coupe or sedan. You can get a manual in either and those are fun/flashy cars. |
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