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Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB Problems, issues, recalls, TSBs


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Old 03-24-2019, 03:21 PM   #463
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Originally Posted by S3pt1c View Post
Is there any reason why those with Toyotas *have* to use a Toyota dealership? Or is there the option to go to Suburu for the work? Maybe they have a method of charging back to Toyota.

I am fortunate to not be affected by this recall, though I have a good friend that is. I really feel for him considering he has no problems at the moment and he’s sh#t scared of introducing problems after having the work done. I suppose what is even worse is that afterwards every single noise or rev it of place will get his heart going a little faster.


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It's my understanding that for the recall work to be covered by Toyota, that a Toyota must be taken to a Toyota dealership (it least in this country).

If your good friend has reservations about a Toyota dealership doing the recall work, they have an option - just don't have the recall work done (unless it is mandatory for reregistration in your part of the world).


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Old 03-24-2019, 03:23 PM   #464
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Is there any reason why those with Toyotas *have* to use a Toyota dealership? Or is there the option to go to Suburu for the work? Maybe they have a method of charging back to Toyota.
Only if you want it done under the recall. If you are willing to pay for it yourself you could go to anyone.
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Old 03-24-2019, 03:24 PM   #465
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That made me think that I should also bring in a Fumoto valve for them to put in instead of just replacing the regular drain plug.
Then, if problems arise after the recall work, the dealership can blame the aftermarket drain stopper for letting the oil out and the engine spinning # 3 rod bearing.





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Old 03-25-2019, 02:42 PM   #466
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It’s one of those things. Its easy to do it right, it’s even easier to do it wrong.
Yip. I like the Snap-On aviation grade Nyroc blades for this stuff.
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:50 PM   #467
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:02 PM   #468
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It’s one of those things. Its easy to do it right, it’s even easier to do it wrong.
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Yip. I like the Snap-On aviation grade Nyroc blades for this stuff.
I keep an old leather belt as a strop for when I feel even the hint of a nick in the blade. Otherwise, I'd be going through boxes of them.
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:06 PM   #469
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Yip. I like the Snap-On aviation grade Nyroc blades for this stuff.
Loctite SF 7200 then a real razor pulled past perpendicular, followed up with a clean brass brush.

I've heard that works well.



SF 7200 and white plastic Wurth blades is all I use. The yellows are too soft. They say you don't have to get the old sealant 100% removed, as long as the 7200 is neutralized it will bond to the new sealant just fine.

Our stuff is just called Flachendichtung (Surface Sealing) and says "Contains 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane".
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Old 03-25-2019, 04:32 PM   #470
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Originally Posted by ThatCarGuyClayton View Post
Update.

Dealer has confirmed knocking. They will not touch the engine until someone from corporate comes down and watches them take it apart.
I won't have any updates until then.
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I was told this initially from my dealership as well. I would try to get them to confirm verbally or in writing that they have to wait for the Toyota tech to show before they begin engine disassembly. Part of how I got my dealer to fix my engine was that they were supposed to wait, and the manager let it slip that they didn't. Then they tried to say there was never a tech sent and that I misunderstood, until I got corporate involved.

I was never told if they were supposed to wait or not, but after I brought that up, I got a call a few days later that they were doing a " good faith" repair, so likely Toyota was angry that they didn't wait for the tech. I would never have known had the manager not accidentally said something, because she wasn't in the loop at all.
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Old 03-25-2019, 04:35 PM   #471
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I was told this initially from my dealership as well. I would try to get them to confirm verbally or in writing that they have to wait for the Toyota tech to show before they begin engine disassembly. Part of how I got my dealer to fix my engine was that they were supposed to wait, and the manager let it slip that they didn't. Then they tried to say there was never a tech sent and that I misunderstood, until I got corporate involved.

I was never told if they were supposed to wait or not, but after I brought that up, I got a call a few days later that they were doing a " good faith" repair, so likely Toyota was angry that they didn't wait for the tech. I would never have known had the manager not accidentally said something, because she wasn't in the loop at all.


Oh jeez well hopefully they wait. The service lady offered for me to come pick the car up, she even told me that they were not allowed to touch it until next week. I told her I wasn't gonna drive it and potentially make the issue worse.


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Old 03-25-2019, 07:34 PM   #472
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117mi. Cars not dead yet. Also it's driving slightly better than before and quieter too.
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:35 PM   #473
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117mi. Cars not dead yet. Also it's driving slightly better than before and quieter too.


That's what I thought at first too.


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Old 03-25-2019, 07:44 PM   #474
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Loctite SF 7200 then a real razor pulled past perpendicular, followed up with a clean brass brush.



I've heard that works well.







SF 7200 and white plastic Wurth blades is all I use. The yellows are too soft. They say you don't have to get the old sealant 100% removed, as long as the 7200 is neutralized it will bond to the new sealant just fine.



Our stuff is just called Flachendichtung (Surface Sealing) and says "Contains 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane".
Keep buying Loctite, I work for them!
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:48 PM   #475
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Quote:
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117mi. Cars not dead yet. Also it's driving slightly better than before and quieter too.
That's not quiet...that's the sound of your paranoia festering....

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Old 03-25-2019, 08:09 PM   #476
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Keep buying Loctite, I work for them!
I get it with a A 010 989 90 71 sticker on the side. It's good stuff!
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