Data Logs! Post them here.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Tor

I flashed a tune with 20% port injection from load 0.6 in 3200 to 4200 rpm. Will drive it tomorrow and log.

I'm going to do the same. :fingers crossed:

[Tor]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I'm going to do the same. :fingers crossed:

I love tuning! Especially when changes works.



There are two logs in the link. One morning (cold wet) and one afternoon (a bit warmer). And I even increased the timing in that area a bit again (back to previous tune level):
https://datazap.me/u/tor/tor-2342?lo...zoom=4888-6481

It looks like it now only has FBKC were the ratio changes from 0 to 20%. I think it can be fine tuned a bit more, maybe lower the PI Load treshold to 0.5 and add 20% there too. Also, it seems that it doesn't like changes in the ratio, maybe it would help smoothing it out a bit.

Anyone have any ideas why it needs 50% PI at low loads? Maybe there could be a benefit of lowering it a bit there?

And could the injectors make noise when switching on that the knock sensor might pick up?

Looking forward to seeing your results, @solidONE!

Ah yes, and I bumped the timing up a bit above 4000 rpm again. Again it doesn't seem to mind! This is getting rediculous. More?



Timing Compensation per cylinder -1.05 at that rpm, so max total timing actually 32.22 deg.

[Tor]

Originally Posted by Tor

It looks like it now only has FBKC were the ratio changes from 0 to 20%. I think it can be fine tuned a bit more, maybe lower the PI Load treshold to 0.5 and add 20% there too. Also, it seems that it doesn't like changes in the ratio, maybe it would help smoothing it out a bit.

Anyone have any ideas why it needs 50% PI at low loads? Maybe there could be a benefit of lowering it a bit there?

Actually, disregard this. After looking more closely most of the remaining FBKC seems like tipin knock. I'll try to take out a bit more in transient retard.

Also, when doing the same exercise with a bit higher load it switches to 50% port initially. Maybe it helps or it's just less timing in Base Timing B.


https://datazap.me/u/tor/tor-2342?lo...zoom=8673-9592

I suppose it might be worth a try to increase PI to 50% in load 0.5 from 600 to 2800 rpm.

Maybe something like this? Compared to stock tune it would mean the port injectors would be active almost all the time. Is there anything that speaks against this?



For reference, this is from the tune the logs are based on:

[srt4evah]

Just got my car last week, first time using OFT now. I'm familiar with tuning concepts, but not OFT or the 86, can someone tell me if it's normal to have knock at light throttle like in the log?

https://datazap.me/u/srt4evah/10-24-...&data=1-2-4-10

*edit* Car has an Injen Evolution intake and Magnaflow catback, as far as I can see those are the only bolt-ons aside from Perrin lightweight pulleys. Currently using the OFT Stage 1 93 tune.

And yes I'm looking for a used OEM or TRD intake to replace the Injen, that's what was on the car so that's what I'm stuck with for the moment.

[Tor]

Originally Posted by srt4evah

Just got my car last week, first time using OFT now. I'm familiar with tuning concepts, but not OFT or the 86, can someone tell me if it's normal to have knock at light throttle like in the log?

https://datazap.me/u/srt4evah/10-24-...&data=1-2-4-10

*edit* Car has an Injen Evolution intake and Magnaflow catback, as far as I can see those are the only bolt-ons aside from Perrin lightweight pulleys. Currently using the OFT Stage 1 93 tune.

And yes I'm looking for a used OEM or TRD intake to replace the Injen, that's what was on the car so that's what I'm stuck with for the moment.

That's a horrible log. You don't have light knock. You have the ECU pulling timing with every option it has available: IAM drop (Advance Multiplier in OFT language), FLKC and FBKC (Knock corr). It's running way too lean.

How much is a stock intake bought new from a dealer? If it was me, I wouldn't wait for a used one to turn up. Or maybe you can find someone that can provide you with a MAF scaling that is better suited for the intake?

[srt4evah]

Originally Posted by Tor

That's a horrible log. You don't have light knock. You have the ECU pulling timing with every option it has available: IAM drop (Advance Multiplier in OFT language), FLKC and FBKC (Knock corr). It's running way too lean.

How much is a stock intake bought new from a dealer? If it was me, I wouldn't wait for a used one to turn up. Or maybe you can find someone that can provide you with a MAF scaling that is better suited for the intake?

Yeah that's what I was worried about, I'm still new to this platform but it seemed pretty bad after I did the first log.

I'll see if I can get a quote on a stock airbox/snorkel setup, but I think they run like a couple hundred for all the parts needed.

I bought Wayne's ROMs, would you suggest I try flashing the +2 or +4 fuel option temporarily?

[Tor]

Originally Posted by srt4evah

Yeah that's what I was worried about, I'm still new to this platform but it seemed pretty bad after I did the first log.

I'll see if I can get a quote on a stock airbox/snorkel setup, but I think they run like a couple hundred for all the parts needed.

I bought Wayne's ROMs, would you suggest I try flashing the +2 or +4 fuel option temporarily?

You are running roughly 10% too lean and that is after the ECU already adding close to 4% fuel.

Wayno's tunes is a correction at the top of the MAF scale (+2 or +4%) and it really won't work in your situation. You need a whole new MAF scale because the buttom of the scale is wrong too.

A better bet is to find a premade MAF scale for the Injen or a similar intake if you can get your hands on it. Or fork up the money for a stock intake. In the mean time it would probably be better for you to go back to stock tune as it's running richer from the factory.

If you are willing to put the time into making proper logs, I'd give it a go at making a new MAF scale for you.

Proper logs means:
1. Full throttle pulls in 3rd gear from as low an rpm as possible. 1500-2000 rpm to redline.
2. A log with 10-15 accellerations from 1500 to 5000 rpm at low throttle, where the ECU stays in closed loop (CL). Best is various gears and with different pressure on the accellerator pedal. Some with very light pressure 10% and but most with a bit more (20%) to as much as you can while staying in CL. In any case it's important that the ECU doesn't switch to open loop (OL).
3) A driving log of 15-20 mins. Just normal driving, where you drive it through the gears. Like driving casually on a contry road where the revs go up and down because you have to go through corners. If you only have straight roads you have to simulate it as good as you can. Don't drive it hard, it's better if it stays in CL, but don't think too much about it.

For all logs:
- The engine should be warm.
- The outside temps should be less than 20 deg C. And it's best if it's not too cold either. 15 deg C is perfect.
- Don't make frequent long stops. If you just stopped for a longer time wait a bit before starting with the logging. Otherwise IAT will be too high for the data to be useful.

So as you see just making the logs required is rather difficult, especially log no. 2 takes a bit of practice. Stock intake is definitively the easier option!

[srt4evah]

Originally Posted by Tor

You are running roughly 10% too lean and that is after the ECU already adding close to 4% fuel.

Wayno's tunes is a correction at the top of the MAF scale (+2 or +4%) and it really won't work in your situation. You need a whole new MAF scale because the buttom of the scale is wrong too.

A better bet is to find a premade MAF scale for the Injen or a similar intake if you can get your hands on it. Or fork up the money for a stock intake. In the mean time it would probably be better for you to go back to stock tune as it's running richer from the factory.

If you are willing to put the time into making proper logs, I'd give it a go at making a new MAF scale for you.

Proper logs means:
1. Full throttle pulls in 3rd gear from as low an rpm as possible. 1500-2000 rpm to redline.
2. A log with 10-15 accellerations from 1500 to 5000 rpm at low throttle, where the ECU stays in closed loop (CL). Best is various gears and with different pressure on the accellerator pedal. Some with very light pressure 10% and but most with a bit more (20%) to as much as you can while staying in CL. In any case it's important that the ECU doesn't switch to open loop (OL).
3) A driving log of 15-20 mins. Just normal driving, where you drive it through the gears. Like driving casually on a contry road where the revs go up and down because you have to go through corners. If you only have straight roads you have to simulate it as good as you can. Don't drive it hard, it's better if it stays in CL, but don't think too much about it.

For all logs:
- The engine should be warm.
- The outside temps should be less than 20 deg C. And it's best if it's not too cold either. 15 deg C is perfect.
- Don't make frequent long stops. If you just stopped for a longer time wait a bit before starting with the logging. Otherwise IAT will be too high for the data to be useful.

So as you see just making the logs required is rather difficult, especially log no. 2 takes a bit of practice. Stock intake is definitively the easier option!

Thanks, I'm doing my best to get a stock or TRD intake ASAP, hopefully in the next day or two. I just want the car to run in a safe state until I get the replacement airbox. I'll switch back to stock tune for now, thanks.

[bababooey]

grimspeed is reported to have matching maf scaling as well, if that is available. join the tx86 group on facebook & look in the southwest section tx for sale thread on this site.

[srt4evah]

Thanks guys, I found an OEM airbox on the forums here and it should arrive tomorrow. I'll start tuning from there off of Wanyo's 93 Default tune, hopefully all this knock is gone with the stock airbox.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Wayno]

Originally Posted by srt4evah

Thanks, I'm doing my best to get a stock or TRD intake ASAP, hopefully in the next day or two. I just want the car to run in a safe state until I get the replacement airbox. I'll switch back to stock tune for now, thanks.

Mine and oft tunes have less ign adv and run richer than stock at normal driving rpms.

You could run +4% until you install the airbox, or just don't go WOT.

Or you could keep the intake, multiply everything 3.44MAFV and above by 1.09 and optionally multiply the entire scale by an additional 5% as per the last paragraph in this section. http://site.wayneroms.com:8000/#fuel

It's safe as long as IAM > 0. You won't be doing any worse than the previous owner has done for thousands of miles.

[Wayno]

Originally Posted by bababooey

grimspeed is reported to have matching maf scaling as well, if that is available. join the tx86 group on facebook & look in the southwest section tx for sale thread on this site.

You're proposing he replaces his expensive waste of money aftermarket intake, with another waste of money intake, then copy an unnecessary, potentially shitty maf scale based on blind faith.

[srt4evah]

Originally Posted by Wayno

Mine and oft tunes have less ign adv and run richer than stock at normal driving rpms.

You could run +4% until you install the airbox, or just don't go WOT.

Or you could keep the intake, multiply everything 3.44MAFV and above by 1.09 and optionally multiply the entire scale by an additional 5% as per the last paragraph in this section. http://www.wayneroms.com/#fuel

It's safe as long as IAM > 0. You won't be doing any worse than the previous owner has done for thousands of miles.

Thanks, I put it back to stock tune, and it was mildly better, but I'm just going to park it for a day or two until the OEM intake I bought arrives. Once I swap out the Injen I'll go and start fresh with your Stg1 93 Default tune and go from there. I've got a Gruppe S UEL incoming, so in a couple weeks I'll probably be purchasing your Stg2 tune.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Tor

I love tuning! Especially when changes works.



There are two logs in the link. One morning (cold wet) and one afternoon (a bit warmer). And I even increased the timing in that area a bit again (back to previous tune level):
https://datazap.me/u/tor/tor-2342?lo...zoom=4888-6481

It looks like it now only has FBKC were the ratio changes from 0 to 20%. I think it can be fine tuned a bit more, maybe lower the PI Load treshold to 0.5 and add 20% there too. Also, it seems that it doesn't like changes in the ratio, maybe it would help smoothing it out a bit.

Anyone have any ideas why it needs 50% PI at low loads? Maybe there could be a benefit of lowering it a bit there?

And could the injectors make noise when switching on that the knock sensor might pick up?

Looking forward to seeing your results, @solidONE!

Ah yes, and I bumped the timing up a bit above 4000 rpm again. Again it doesn't seem to mind! This is getting rediculous. More?



Timing Compensation per cylinder -1.05 at that rpm, so max total timing actually 32.22 deg.

I'm not quite getting the results you are seeing, but a couple of things that is different between our setups and conditions.

1. California apparently recently changed to 'winter blend' petrol and my tune was dialed to non winter blend fuel, so I'm running on poorer fuel compared to my older logs and getting more knock corrections all around to begin with.

2. I did a lazy change to the port injection ratio by simply changing the 3200 rpm cell to 3800 rpm to raise the port % at the trouble areas up to about 40%.



The .60 load FBKC is still there, even at RPM below 3800 where I have set 30~40% port injection. In the logs I tried to hold the load at .60 starting from around 3k to +4k rpms. Although the FBKC does not appear every time I hold it at 0.6 loads, just most of the time and more often in 4th gear than while in 2nd gear.

Log I just took 30minutes ago showing the usual FBKC at 0.6 loads around 3~4k rpms only after oil temps got up to 190*f (normal operating temps):
https://datazap.me/u/solidone/z7kc2r...3862-4902-4954

Then you look at this earlier log, the FBKC is not triggered every time under the same conditions even with the oil temps above 190*f:
https://datazap.me/u/solidone/z7kc2r...mark=5864-5875


The change seems to be doing something for me, but not really. Worth playing around with some more me thinks.