DIY Camber Bolt Install?

[Prmspen]

This may be a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway. If I'm installing the OEM front upper camber crash bolt, can I just do it myself at home, or do I need to get a professional alignment? I'm new to suspension work, so I want to make sure I don't screw anything up.

I'm running C Street autocross, so I'm looking to get maximum front camber while staying within the class rules. Seems like the OEM camber bolt is the way to go. I watched the Savage Geese DIY install video, and the job itself doesn't seem hard. But it wasn't clear whether the change would screw up alignment.

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by Prmspen

This may be a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway. If I'm installing the OEM front upper camber crash bolt, can I just do it myself at home, or do I need to get a professional alignment? I'm new to suspension work, so I want to make sure I don't screw anything up.

I'm running C Street autocross, so I'm looking to get maximum front camber while staying within the class rules. Seems like the OEM camber bolt is the way to go. I watched the Savage Geese DIY install video, and the job itself doesn't seem hard. But it wasn't clear whether the change would screw up alignment.

you WILL need an alignment after. You can install it yourself its rather simple as its just a bolt but again you WILL need an alignment after.

[gramicci101]

If you have the tools, you can do your own install. It's pretty easy. It's possible to do your own alignment, but if you're asking about how to do one, just get it done professionally and tell them that you want to max out your front camber.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

If you have the tools, you can do your own install. It's pretty easy. It's possible to do your own alignment, but if you're asking about how to do one, just get it done professionally and tell them that you want to max out your front camber.

Don't do that, unless you KNOW your alignment guy. Most alignment techs will take one look at the database and see "front camber not adjustable," then disregard what you tell them. Sometimes they'll make up a story too ("I tried to adjust camber and this is the max I got" and its basically unchanged).

OP, you will want to max out the camber yourself, then take it in and ask for a toe alignment. You want max camber anyway since a CS car never has enough. If you know any local autocrossers, ask them where they get alignments done since you will want a tech who has a better understanding of your needs and a willingness to do a through, quality job.

FYI, the toe change is negligible. I never bothered to get mine aligned and didn't notice any change in tire wear or handling.

FYI #2, torque it properly (torque wrench on the nut, not on the bolt). I think the torque spec is 119 ft-lbs. If it's loose or not quite to torque spec, no, your strut will not disconnect from your hub and cause a calamity. You will however get some, shall we say...dynamic...camber. Don't ask how I know.

[Prmspen]

Originally Posted by renfield90

FYI, the toe change is negligible. I never bothered to get mine aligned and didn't notice any change in tire wear or handling.

Sounds like you're saying I can max out the front camber myself, and it's no big deal if I don't get an alignment done afterwards. Is that correct?

Also, I hear you on torquing things correctly. One day I'll tell the story of what happens when you don't torque the lug nuts on your Chump Car, then put it on a dolly and try to tow it to the track...

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by Prmspen

Sounds like you're saying I can max out the front camber myself, and it's no big deal if I don't get an alignment done afterwards. Is that correct?

Also, I hear you on torquing things correctly. One day I'll tell the story of what happens when you don't torque the lug nuts on your Chump Car, then put it on a dolly and try to tow it to the track...

Yep, not a big deal. The bolts give you, at most, an extra 0.5 degrees per side. Typically less than that. The change in toe is very small. A local guy barely got 0.2 extra per side and isn't even at a full -1.0. I feel for him...

If you were to install camber plates or something and set camber in the -2 to -3 range, you would definitely want an alignment. The toe change is larger at that point.

Some people swear by the importance of alignments for autocross, my take on them is just make sure it's not grossly wrong.

The thought of the average chump car losing its wheels spontaneously honestly makes me laugh a bit. Almost like you'd expect something like that to happen.

[Prmspen]

Originally Posted by renfield90

The thought of the average chump car losing its wheels spontaneously honestly makes me laugh a bit. Almost like you'd expect something like that to happen.

In fairness, only one wheel fell off. In the middle lane of an interstate. On Friday afternoon in rush hour.

[wparsons]

1/16" change in toe is definitely noticeable in how the car drives. Max out the camber, then get the front toe set to zero.

[atlbrz]

I did this not long ago. Pretty straight forward. I just maxed out the camber on both sides and it is very close to the rear camber from the factory around -1.0. Using home made toe plates, there was virtually no change to the toe. I was expecting the toe to change. It is still so close to zero toe I didn't both getting an alignment and have noticed no unusual wear in 2K miles. Your results could vary. BTW, this change along with some different tires made a hugh difference with the front turn in.

[solidONE]

I've gotten as much as -3.0* out front using camber bolts on an otherwise stock suspension. Not sure what people are doing if they're only getting 0.5* adjustment out of camber bolts.

[Prmspen]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I've gotten as much as -3.0* out front using camber bolts on an otherwise stock suspension. Not sure what people are doing if they're only getting 0.5* adjustment out of camber bolts.

Did you use the stock Subaru lower bolt, or an after-market bolt of some sort? Pretty much everyone is reporting about -1.0 with the Subaru part, but more with after-market parts.

I'm going with the Subaru bolt so I can still run C Street autocross.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Prmspen

Did you use the stock Subaru lower bolt, or an after-market bolt of some sort? Pretty much everyone is reporting about -1.0 with the Subaru part, but more with after-market parts.

I'm going with the Subaru bolt so I can still run C Street autocross.

SPC 81260 and 81280.

Edit: @Prmspen I'm not sure what the rule books allow, but from the sound of it anything that's factory subaru/toyota is legal? Perhaps you can find a smaller diameter crash bolt that give a bit more slop to give you a bit more range of adjustment.

Like this part: http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...105-14147.html

I believe this is a 12mm diameter bolt from toyota. And will probably give you a bit more camber adjustment. Though the thinner diameter will obviously be weaker than the 14mm, also not sure of the legality in the class you are running.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I believe this is a 12mm diameter bolt from toyota. And will probably give you a bit more camber adjustment. Though the thinner diameter will obviously be weaker than the 14mm, also not sure of the legality in the class you are running.

IIRC the rulebook states that the part must be listed in the factory service/repair manual so only one option to be used as specified in instructed in said manual.

Greatly appreciate the SPC part numbers though, I think I need both to get enough camber for an STX car and the info is a bit buried. -3.0 with just bolts you say... Delicious, I was only getting ~-1.1 with the 16mm bolt in the top hole.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

IIRC the rulebook states that the part must be listed in the factory service/repair manual so only one option to be used as specified in instructed in said manual.

Greatly appreciate the SPC part numbers though, I think I need both to get enough camber for an STX car and the info is a bit buried. -3.0 with just bolts you say... Delicious, I was only getting ~-1.1 with the 16mm bolt in the top hole.

Not sure about -3+ but I got -2.4 with SPC in bottom and 14mm in top. A 12mm in top would get you more obviously its just a matter of how much.

Really camber plates are the way to go