05-27-2014, 11:48 AM | #2381 |
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owned the car for about 6 months so far
2014 model i HATE the radio reception. my previous cars never had a problem picking up radio stations around town, even with shorty antenna's. this car i cant get a decent reception anywhere around town even switched HU's and still nothing, thankfully it got me out of the habit of listening to the radio |
05-27-2014, 01:16 PM | #2382 |
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I wish that there was a display of the individual tire pressures like in Porsche. Since we have the stinking TPMs anyway.
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05-27-2014, 02:00 PM | #2383 |
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If you are that anal about tire pressure....
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05-27-2014, 02:13 PM | #2384 |
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I would rather have a lid on the center console than cup holders... So far that's about it.
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05-27-2014, 02:55 PM | #2385 |
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05-27-2014, 02:59 PM | #2386 |
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05-28-2014, 05:06 PM | #2387 |
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05-28-2014, 05:09 PM | #2388 |
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05-28-2014, 05:30 PM | #2389 |
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05-28-2014, 05:39 PM | #2390 |
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i think i just hate the ignorant frs brz owners that are "know it alls" |
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05-28-2014, 08:11 PM | #2391 |
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more information please
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05-28-2014, 08:15 PM | #2392 |
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Cannot prove but I think our paint is toughening/hardening with age
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05-28-2014, 08:19 PM | #2393 |
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I stumbled across an aftermarket thing you can get to do this. Sorry , no link
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05-28-2014, 09:33 PM | #2394 |
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Sure.
The rear shifter bushing locates the rear bar the shifter slides on and rotates around. The OEM shifter bushing, like all OEM bushings, is soft and floppy and ineffective. Fortunately, there are a number of solutions available to us. I bought [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-8-1105R-Shifter-Bushing/dp/B00CYDGFW8/]this one[/ame] because it was cheap and I had an Amazon gift card. There are other brands available as well; [ame]http://ft86speedfactory.com/drivetrain-41/shifter-bushings-99/[/ame] Here's a handy guide by @F1point4 on how to install them; [ame]http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19767[/ame] His guides are great, and most of them are doable from jack stands. The new shifter bushing makes a huge difference in the feel of the shifter. It isn't vague anymore; instead it's precise, with solid engagement. A+++ mod, especially for the price. And an easy install. However, it could be better. This is where MTEC Shift Springs come into play. Your shift springs are what pushes the shifter towards the center of the gates, basically the return-to-zero mechanism. The MTEC springs are stronger, so there's more force pushing the shifter to the center. This will obviously make things like shifts from 2-3 or downshifts from 5-4 better, but it goes past that. Because there's additional pressure to move the shifter to the left or right, it becomes very clear what gear you're in. I've found that every upshift or downshift has become much more defined as a result. Again, super A++ mod. And it's cheap. The install is a bit more technical than the above bushing, but that's because leftover locktite clogs the threads. It was a 20 minute job for me. @FT-86 SpeedFactory has a video tutorial on the install on their product page. This thread covers some of the issues and proposed solutions to the locktite and the tools needed. I chimed in on page two, with a solution that worked very very well for me. Lastly, the transmission fluid. Motul 300 is rated for both GL4 and GL5, so it's suitable for both the transmission and rear differential. Do both. The magnetic drain plug for my transmission had a light coating of metallic gunk on it; the drain plug for my diff was COVERED. Get that shit out of there. Motul 300 is much higher quality than the OEM fluid. F1point4 wrote another great tutorial, which I followed to the letter. I ordered my fluid from @AZP Installs, and I'll order from them again in the future. Great to work with. I don't know how much difference this made on its own, because I did all three items at the same time. It does make an improvement though. This was the only item here that wasn't cheap, and even then it was <$100. Super lastly, I also installed a Whiteline Positive Shift Kit transmission mount insert. This doesn't directly affect shifting, but it does limit movement of the transmission. That lets the shifter do what it's supposed to be doing instead of flexing the transmission mount around. Be warned, this does transmit noise into the cabin. Not much, and mostly low gear low rpm, but some. Harder bushings always will, that's just part of the game. F1point4 wrote another outstanding tutorial. I combined that with this thread and had it replaced in about 5-10 minutes. Since you'll be under the car already, you might as well do them all at once. My shifter is now incredibly precise and defined, at the cost of a little gear noise from the transmission. I would do it all again in a heartbeat. edit for some reason, two of my links under the rear shifter bushing won't link. Stupid Internet. Last edited by gramicci101; 05-28-2014 at 10:00 PM. |
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