Subaru BRZ Owners Manual (PDF download)

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

For people saying 5w-30, isn't 0w-30 a better idea since you have much lower cold start viscosity?

Yes, but 0w-30 isn't always available. 5W-30 is much easier to get and the small bump in cold viscosity isn't a really big deal as drivers shouldn't be beating on their cars until the oil hits operating temp anyways.

Now a larger jump like 10W or 15W on an engine designed for 0W could case issues even if driven lightly. The reason being that the higher viscosity will increase cold oil pressure, and you run the risk of most of the oil going through the pump bypass valve and reducing oil flow in the engine itself.

Again, unless you have a good reason, it's better to go with a higher quality oil rather than a higher viscosity oil.

Originally Posted by jer305

"●Vehicles with a manual transmission: To make your vehicle more visible
to other drivers, the daytime running lights turn on automatically whenever the engine is started and the parking brake is released. Daytime
running lights are not designed for use at night."

Does this mean when you see someone on the track drifting the DLR will turn off when they pull the e-brake? lol

It is possible. We'll see.


So, am I the only one that's thinking of maybe wiring the Halos to be the DRLs instead of the strip? Or in addition to?

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

So, am I the only one that's thinking of maybe wiring the Halos to be the DRLs instead of the strip? Or in addition to?

I suppose you could. FWIW, the C-pipe halos are barely visible in sunlight.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by zoomzoomers

Then what is recommended for Subaru's? This will be my first ever Subaru so I'm coming from the dark here.

I use Rotella T6 5w-40 or similar (M1 TDT 5w-40, etc.) oils in my WRX. Regular M1 5w-30 caught a bad rep over on NASIOC through the years, but I believe their high mileage formulation was shown to be better. M1 doesn't make crap oil, it just happens that that 5w-30 sheared very easily, which wasn't good for people beating on their cars. Basically: wimpy ass energy conserving oil, used to get better mileage, sucks for your bearings. A lot of the "European formulation"/Euro spec oils are better, but that's a blanket statement; you'll have to compare them across the stats you desire in your oil.

Best answer is to do your research on HTHS ratings, GL-3/4 whatever ratings, and phosphorous levels (the oils I prefer are/were diesel formulations and have high phosphorous, which can wreck cats). Basically, go to BITOG. We're going to be doing the preliminary research on this car; as long as it's in warranty I guess I'll be using 0W-20. After warranty there should be enough information to make a more informed decision regarding oils.

[tranzformer]

I'm sure there will also be some using AMSOIL.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by tranzformer

I'm sure there will also be some using AMSOIL.

Always been interested in them (not specifically the break-in oil), but their business model is strange and the oil is actually quite expensive. I'm perfectly okay with marching into Wally World and getting a gallon of T6 versus finding a specialty shop that carries AMSOIL.

[tranzformer]

Those that use AMSOIL swear by it. I think you can order it online from several places.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by tranzformer

Those that use AMSOIL swear by it. I think you can order it online from several places.

Way more trouble than marching into Wally World. I'll get around to it one day or just find some UOA on it.

[zoomzoomers]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

I use Rotella T6 5w-40 or similar (M1 TDT 5w-40, etc.) oils in my WRX. Regular M1 5w-30 caught a bad rep over on NASIOC through the years, but I believe their high mileage formulation was shown to be better. M1 doesn't make crap oil, it just happens that that 5w-30 sheared very easily, which wasn't good for people beating on their cars. Basically: wimpy ass energy conserving oil, used to get better mileage, sucks for your bearings. A lot of the "European formulation"/Euro spec oils are better, but that's a blanket statement; you'll have to compare them across the stats you desire in your oil.

Best answer is to do your research on HTHS ratings, GL-3/4 whatever ratings, and phosphorous levels (the oils I prefer are/were diesel formulations and have high phosphorous, which can wreck cats). Basically, go to BITOG. We're going to be doing the preliminary research on this car; as long as it's in warranty I guess I'll be using 0W-20. After warranty there should be enough information to make a more informed decision regarding oils.

Wow, thanks for the detailed info. I guess I've never really cared much about what oil I was using as long as there was sufficient amount in the motor. I pretty much don't ever keep a car long enough for it to matter much, but maybe I should start caring more.

[ZetaVI]

This link is on the insideline blog.

[jimmillion]

I've been reading through it but I don't see anything on the lowest temp setting for the autoclimate controls. Has anyone seen anything that I missed?

[Margovincent_22x]

If You Live In ASIA and the temperatures Range is 25-40 deg cel. what oil do you recommend for spirited driving conditions

[serialk11r]

I think ambient temperature matters more for engine performance in terms of air density and such rather than the fluids...the cooling system runs at about 100C and won't go much beyond that, and your oil is going to be partially cooled by it. Follow the manual? I'm sure they design the engine with thin oils in mind...

But yea same weight of oil can have very different properties.

[Subaruwrxfan]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

So, am I the only one that's thinking of maybe wiring the Halos to be the DRLs instead of the strip? Or in addition to?

I am 100% down if it's easy. I suck at wiring anything, so if it's simple I'll do it. I was just planning on driving with the parking lights on 24/7. All the parking lights front and back are LED so I don't have to worry about them burning out.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

I suppose you could. FWIW, the C-pipe halos are barely visible in sunlight.

Well, I'll see when I finally get to play with one.

Originally Posted by tranzformer

I'm sure there will also be some using AMSOIL.

I'd give Amsoil a try if I didn't have to jump through so many dumb hoops to get it. A friend of mine owns a shop and became an Amsoil dealer. But then he found out that they won't even deliver their own product to a business. So he hasn't sold a single quart. At least if I order Redline from Jegs it'll be on my doorstep the next day, or I can walk into any store and pick up Pennzoil Platinum.

I hear great things about Amsoil, but making a product difficult to get just pisses me off instead of making me want it more.