CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[gutbuster]

If I use B6 struts with RCE Yellows and Raceseng CasCam top plates with the thrust bearing upper spring perch, will the "stack height" be different than the OEM top mount, resulting in something other than the nominal 20mm ride height reduction at the front?

[DeaconRoc]

I am running Moton Clubsport suspension. I recently fitted a set of Voodoo 13 LCA's which effectively lower the rear of the car 18mm as I was lowered around 40mm and wanted to regain 18mm of bump travel. However, now I've fitted the Voodoo arms I seem to have lost most of my droop travel as I've had to raise the rear dampers spring platforms right up to try to return to the around 40mm lowering I had before I fitted the arms.

I'm not entirely happy with this setup as the limited droop travel means I fear I will now top out rather than bottom out the damper.

I presume the issue is that the Moton dampers must be shorter than OEM and so already lower the car meaning the addition of the Voodoo arms has now lowered the rear too much. Am I right or am I totally on the wrong track? I'm presuming a return to the oem arms may be my best option?

I've added a picture below showing how the arms are sat currently with the car lowered around 45mm.



Any help would be much appreciated

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

[vtekdis]

Hi guys need some advice on how to properly tune my shocks (rebound/compression) with current setup for autox. Alignement changes, different sway bars etc. recommendations are also welcome.

Current alignment
-2.5F -1.5R camber
slight toe out F
slight toe in R
caster within OEM range

KW V3 4k/5k F/R
1.2in drop F/R
stock swaybars
17x9 +35
245/40/17 RE71R
Rear LCA Whiteline
Raceseng Camber Plates

[Calum]

I've got about 15k kms on my T0s now, all street driving. I'm wondering how often I should have them re-corner balanced? Or if that's only an adjustment that I would make if I notice an issue?

[redhalo]

I've got Tein Flex Z's that make clunking sounds in the front when slowely driving forward or reverse. I'm lowered at about 2" and have read that the clunking may just be the nature of some coilovers or that the end links could be binding due to being that low. Any advice on end links that may resolve the sound? I'm not tracking the car, just spirited street driving, so I don't think I need anything too high end.

[Pat]

It could be a few things. You may just want to bring it to a trusted mechanic.

[redhalo]

Originally Posted by Pat

It could be a few things. You may just want to bring it to a trusted mechanic.

I have.

[cjopant]

I'd love to understand how to reduce how much my ride height sags with weight fluctuations. If I have a full tank of gas and a trunk full of jerry cans, the ride height in the rear will be noticeably lower. Is this a result of soft springs?

Here's my setup in part:

• KW V3 Coils - (Not 100% on the spring rate, but they're from 2017 so I think they're 230/285)
• -2.5 camber all around on Verus plates
• 18x9.5 +38 wheels w/ 255/35R18 MPSS
• Verus rear control arms
• Verus rear toe arms
• Pretty low - less than a finger gap all around
• Pretty stiff - I recently had the rear compression stiffened in an attempt to stop the sag (and subsequent rubbing), but it's not really working and the ride is now a little too harsh for the street.

Here's a pic of how it's currently sitting. I'll likely raise it up a bit, and go back to my previous compression settings but I've had this problem (and rubbing) at higher ride heights too.




Are my springs too soft?
Am I feeling the 2mm difference between my +38 setup and the +40 that most other folks seem to run?
Am I too low? (probably?)

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

[Trueweltall]

Is it possible to get 0 toe with -1.0 camber in the rear with just SPC LCA's without having to install the toe bushings? Car has a 15mm drop. Pretty sure alignment guy at Firestone is a moron.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Calum

I've got about 15k kms on my T0s now, all street driving. I'm wondering how often I should have them re-corner balanced? Or if that's only an adjustment that I would make if I notice an issue?

You can check to see if your ride heights are the same as they were 15k kms ago but you should be okay.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by cjopant

I'd love to understand how to reduce how much my ride height sags with weight fluctuations. If I have a full tank of gas and a trunk full of jerry cans, the ride height in the rear will be noticeably lower. Is this a result of soft springs?

Here's my setup in part:

• KW V3 Coils - (Not 100% on the spring rate, but they're from 2017 so I think they're 230/285)
• -2.5 camber all around on Verus plates
• 18x9.5 +38 wheels w/ 255/35R18 MPSS
• Verus rear control arms
• Verus rear toe arms
• Pretty low - less than a finger gap all around
• Pretty stiff - I recently had the rear compression stiffened in an attempt to stop the sag (and subsequent rubbing), but it's not really working and the ride is now a little too harsh for the street.

Here's a pic of how it's currently sitting. I'll likely raise it up a bit, and go back to my previous compression settings but I've had this problem (and rubbing) at higher ride heights too.




Are my springs too soft?
Am I feeling the 2mm difference between my +38 setup and the +40 that most other folks seem to run?
Am I too low? (probably?)

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

The change in ride height due to changing weight is a function of spring rate.

Changing compression settings will not affect this in any way, so don't do it for that reason.

Your car looks a little low IMO.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Trueweltall

Is it possible to get 0 toe with -1.0 camber in the rear with just SPC LCA's without having to install the toe bushings? Car has a 15mm drop. Pretty sure alignment guy at Firestone is a moron.

You might want more than -1.0 rear camber.

- Andrew

[Trueweltall]

I have -1.6 right now but the toe is 0.18, is this acceptable? Fronts all fucked up with FL -1.1 and FR -0.5 and a toe that has the steering wheel crooked to go straight.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Trueweltall

I have -1.6 right now but the toe is 0.18, is this acceptable? Fronts all fucked up with FL -1.1 and FR -0.5 and a toe that has the steering wheel crooked to go straight.

-1.6 camber is acceptable, that toe is not.

- Andrew