Planning a 2JZ GTE swap 2016 Scion FRS Advice?

[ZoomZoom1]

Irace86,

I be leave the the Pluge and play ECU by pure does require the GM throttle body to be used, so i was planning on going that route.

[ZoomZoom1]

Spitefire481,

I'm pretty sure ill go with Pure's plug and play harness, it will make things so much simpler and i get to keep all the OEM cabin toyes.

Ill be stiking with the stock twins, like i said might send them off to be rebuilt. Wont know till i get the engine. I just cant drop another 4-5k on a single conversion.

Thanks for the input

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoom1

Irace86,

Thanks for the advice, ill give pure a call and see what they have to offer as far doing the work in there shop, assuming they have one close enough.

Ill take your advice and keep the twins to start with. Ill be a poor man after the swap, so i cant really justify spending an extra 5k on a single turbo conversion kit. Maybe later on.

Ill try swapping just the pads,break lines, and tires to see if i can get the breaks feeling better. Right now it feels like i have to stand on the dam pedal to slow down for corners. I drive a lot of back roads and when no ones around i tend to ignore speed limits. Wouldn't slotted rotors be better then flat faced rotors, it does offer some leading edges for the pad to grip?

Thanks

If you aren’t activating ABS when stomping on the brakes (not that such a technique should be done) then your pads could be upgraded, but most modern brake systems are strong enough to activate the ABS, so I’m concerned a little by what you described. If you were mistaken then upgrade to stickier tires and if you can get ABS to activate like before then there is plenty of strength and bite. Do pads if not and you could do slotted or drilled rotors, but most do fine with just pads. If you are getting brake fade from track pads, eg high heat pads, then calipers and rotors that can transfer enough heat away from the pads will be needed.

I need to correct myself on one thing. If you are getting a JDM engine then your injectors are smaller (440cc vs 550cc I believe) and the turbos are smaller and ceramic, so BPU upgrades may not net 425whp like USDM turbos. Moreover, what Spitfire/Pure said about the turbos leaking or being broke is probably accurate. Those ceramic turbos are known for crapping out.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoom1

Spitefire481,

I'm pretty sure ill go with Pure's plug and play harness, it will make things so much simpler and i get to keep all the OEM cabin toyes.

Ill be stiking with the stock twins, like i said might send them off to be rebuilt. Wont know till i get the engine. I just cant drop another 4-5k on a single conversion.

Thanks for the input

You might be able to buy used USDM turbos for cheap if you can’t go single. Better than those ceramics.

[ZoomZoom1]

: Pure turbo offers twin 2JZ CT20A upgrade turbos for about 1300, It would cost 1000 if i get the 300 dollar core deposit back. You have any experience with these? There web site claims they will support 600HP, that would be more than enough. Also this is a much cheaper option then going to a single turbo set up, but still replacing the OEM turbos.
https://www.pureturbos.com/store/oem...de-turbos.html

[Pure Automotive]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoom1

: Pure turbo offers twin 2JZ CT20A upgrade turbos for about 1300, It would cost 1000 if i get the 300 dollar core deposit back. You have any experience with these? There web site claims they will support 600HP, that would be more than enough. Also this is a much cheaper option then going to a single turbo set up, but still replacing the OEM turbos.
https://www.pureturbos.com/store/oem...de-turbos.html

we have used Pure turbo's on BMW's and haven't had any issues. This could be a pretty cool setup actually. I just don't trust the old stock units and plumbing. Replacing them and making all new hoses would bring the performance and reliability back up to spec just like replacing with a single.

[frsty_86]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoom1

Frsty_86,

I'm planning on doing some of the work my self and having a shop to the majority of the install. I would like to drop that car off at the shop as a roller and have them cram all the new parts in. How much fabrication is required on the trans tunnel to make it fit? What other fabrication am i looking at besides the exhaust system for the twins.

Is there a better option out there for a 6 speed trans that would require less modification of the trans tunnel to get it in there?

Thanks

Reference Clash's thread here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=126185&page=2

Look at pages 2, 3, and 4. He tried massaging the tunnel open at first, and ended up just cutting and widening it. Obviously the stock trans mounts were completely removed before he did this.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoom1

Irace86,

Thanks for the advice, ill give pure a call and see what they have to offer as far doing the work in there shop, assuming they have one close enough.

Ill take your advice and keep the twins to start with. Ill be a poor man after the swap, so i cant really justify spending an extra 5k on a single turbo conversion kit. Maybe later on.

If that's a true statement, I'd suggest thinking long and hard about the swap in general. IMO, spend the money once vs twice, it costs less in the end.

What's your goal with the swap? Power output, usage, etc. If you're really only after ~400whp, why are you doing a 2J swap? I assume you've considered that the car will never pass CA smog after the swap too, right?

Originally Posted by ZoomZoom1

Ill try swapping just the pads,break lines, and tires to see if i can get the breaks feeling better. Right now it feels like i have to stand on the dam pedal to slow down for corners. I drive a lot of back roads and when no ones around i tend to ignore speed limits. Wouldn't slotted rotors be better then flat faced rotors, it does offer some leading edges for the pad to grip?

Thanks

I'd suggest reading up on what works and what doesn't for brakes. Slotted roters (or drilled ones) don't do anything to decrease stopping distances. Skip the brake lines, they won't shorten stopping distances either.

Better pads, higher temp fluid, done. If you're not tracking it, you really don't need to overthink this.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by wparsons

If that's a true statement, I'd suggest thinking long and hard about the swap in general. IMO, spend the money once vs twice, it costs less in the end.

What's your goal with the swap? Power output, usage, etc. If you're really only after ~400whp, why are you doing a 2J swap? I assume you've considered that the car will never pass CA smog after the swap too, right?



I'd suggest reading up on what works and what doesn't for brakes. Slotted roters (or drilled ones) don't do anything to decrease stopping distances. Skip the brake lines, they won't shorten stopping distances either.

Better pads, higher temp fluid, done. If you're not tracking it, you really don't need to overthink this.

Unfortunately, most people do builds in stages instead of all at once unless they have deep pockets. It is less efficient, but it also allows them to enjoy the car while they save for the next stage. It also may be just as inefficient to do a single conversion now if the turbo and wastegate he chooses is sized to the engine's and car's current capabilities, but won't have the size for future power goals when he finally has the money to upgrade the rear end, as an example.


Also, he isn't in Layfayette CA. He is in Layfayette LA, ie, Louisiana.


Most rotors come slotted or drilled for more bite/grab on the lead edge of the pad, which I believe he mentioned. Whether that adds to better feel or engagement versus stopping distance is not worth a debate here. Same with stainless steel lines versus OEM. Some feel better oil helps with feel too, even if they never plan to get it hot enough to warrant performance oil aka high temp fluid. Pads are probably enough for the street and canyons for better engagement/grab and reduction in brake fade/wear. Regardless, it is clear he can save a few grand on not buying a BBK if he isn't tracking the car.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Also, he isn't in Layfayette CA. He is in Layfayette LA, ie, Louisiana.

I somehow read LA as CA... reading is hard.

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Most rotors come slotted or drilled for more bite/grab on the lead edge of the pad, which I believe he mentioned.

I've never seen slotted or drilled rotors claim that... it's always about letting out hot gasses (hint, almost all modern pads don't off gas like old ones), or more cooling surface area (at the cost of less thermal mass).

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by wparsons

I've never seen slotted or drilled rotors claim that... it's always about letting out hot gasses (hint, almost all modern pads don't off gas like old ones), or more cooling surface area (at the cost of less thermal mass).

https://www.frictionmaster.com/blog/...-brake-rotors/

Just the first link in a google search, but yea, mostly it is there to vent gases and that is less of an issue like you mentioned, but...

...some dedicated slotted “racing” rotors actually employ a sharp edge on the slots to cut into the brake pad a small amount for better bite...

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

https://www.frictionmaster.com/blog/...-brake-rotors/

Just the first link in a google search, but yea, mostly it is there to vent gases and that is less of an issue like you mentioned, but...

If you read the full details, it's to remove glazing to help with bite (at the cost of pad life). If the pads aren't glazed, it doesn't help. And if you're glazing pads regularly, you're running the wrong pads.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by wparsons

If you read the full details, it's to remove glazing to help with bite (at the cost of pad life). If the pads aren't glazed, it doesn't help. And if you're glazing pads regularly, you're running the wrong pads.

It doesn’t say anything about glazing that I read. It did mention the sharper slots would lead to greater pad wear. Maybe implied?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by wparsons

If you read the full details, it's to remove glazing to help with bite (at the cost of pad life). If the pads aren't glazed, it doesn't help. And if you're glazing pads regularly, you're running the wrong pads.

Maybe I am getting confused, but there seems to be variability in design for something that just vents gases. Like this page mentions, different groves allow for different bite or release characteristics, but ehh, I’ll concede on the details.

https://www.apracing.com/Info.aspx?I...39&ProductID=9