Can't Shift to 2nd During a Pull

[Somerandom18]

I have the whiteline insert with motul 300 and it's still more difficult to shift into 2nd than other gears. Used to grind when going into 2nd under heavy throttle or wot. Now it's just difficult with no grind or lockout. So I'd recommend doing the fluid swap and insert as well.

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[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

I don't get grinding, it just locks me out because of excessive movement from load I'm assuming

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This is very unlikely. The shifter is bolted directly to the transmission (which is why it does move around) and there is nothing it could contact externally to stop it going into gear.

Have you done anything with the clutch? ie have an aftermarket clutch and/or flywheel. Or even adjusted the clutch pedal height?

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

This is very unlikely. The shifter is bolted directly to the transmission (which is why it does move around) and there is nothing it could contact externally to stop it going into gear.

Have you done anything with the clutch? ie have an aftermarket clutch and/or flywheel. Or even adjusted the clutch pedal height?

my '17 86 has been doing it from new. Can't shift quickly from 1st to 2nd. If I go all the way to 7K RPM, it's like it can't keep up. Gets stuck in the middle. It feels like it doesn't want to be forced either, so the only option is to either not rev so high and go into 2nd at around 4-5K or do it slowly and deliberately, which is weird when you're hauling ass. And the rest of the gears are perfect. Strangest thing. Very interested in this topic to see if anyone who had the same problem found a solution.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

This is very unlikely. The shifter is bolted directly to the transmission (which is why it does move around) and there is nothing it could contact externally to stop it going into gear.

Have you done anything with the clutch? ie have an aftermarket clutch and/or flywheel. Or even adjusted the clutch pedal height?

There are 0 drivetrain modifications that I know of. I bought the car with 26,000 miles and after having driven cars with various aftermarket clutches and flywheels I'm astute that this car is stock.

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[Zentec]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

my '17 86 has been doing it from new. Can't shift quickly from 1st to 2nd. If I go all the way to 7K RPM, it's like it can't keep up. Gets stuck in the middle. It feels like it doesn't want to be forced either, so the only option is to either not rev so high and go into 2nd at around 4-5K or do it slowly and deliberately, which is weird when you're hauling ass. And the rest of the gears are perfect. Strangest thing. Very interested in this topic to see if anyone who had the same problem found a solution.

I have a 17 as well and it's stock. Both of you should stop double clutching!! Lol j/k. Seriously make sure you are shifting properly and have properly broken in your new 17. Is your transmittion warmed up be for you put it under stress? Because when I am getting on the highway I always take it up to redline and it shifts smooth as silk. I will usally take high up in to redline in town to but not all the time just depend.

For the 17 honestly I think it's your shifting method or your not use to the clutch. But if it prosists after you dive it for bit take it in to the dealer and have a tech drive with you and see if he can duplicate it.

With your 13 as it's a used car I would still take it in to have it looked at as the last owner could have been double clutching it like he Shouldn't and ruined a syncro or two. It's worth having it looked at by a certified tech.
Best of luck

[Zentec]

As for transmittions the only trans I like better than the 17 86 is the Honda S2K. That was my fav the meichanical feel, the short throw, ease of shifter movement and of course 9k rpm redline.

[G-Man]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

There are 0 drivetrain modifications that I know of.

since you bought it used. There could have been a short shifter in it before, then the PO removed it to sell. In that cause the reverse lockout might be slightly in the wrong place, and you only notice it when you are in a time sensitive shift.

[Zentec]

Originally Posted by G-Man

since you bought it used. There could have been a short shifter in it before, then the PO removed it to sell. In that cause the reverse lockout might be slightly in the wrong place, and you only notice it when you are in a time sensitive shift.

True and it could be driving style. That's why it would be best to have a certified tech take a look at it. O and if by chance you need a new transmittion order a 17

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

I just talked to my mechanic, who deals with these cars on a regular basis and as soon as I started explaining the issue, he pretty much stopped me mid-sentence to say he sees this sometimes, and it's due to the OE fluid not being filled all the way, so he recommended draining it and using Motul. I'll do that and report back.

[R2]

I got locked out on 3-2 shifts on track for almost 5 years on this car until I adjusted the reverse lockout plate to the right. It seems that aggressive shifting on track caused me to go a little too far to the left and I couldn't make the shift into second. Moving the plate a bit to the right prevents this over travel.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

As title says; what bushing do you think is most likely responsible for this? During heavy load, I am unable to shift from 1st to second. .................

First off, just before you shift ...... let off the gas ..... then push in on the clutch ...... then shift ....... then let out the clutch ...... then give it more gas .......

Did I miss something ... ?? Is it ma med and nap time ??....... yep, sure is ..... how did you know ....??



ZZZZZZZZ


humfrz

[celek]

shift slower
the mesh point for the synchros is like 4000 RPM if your trans with the clutch pressed in is spinning freely at a 7000 RPM simulation on the main shaft with wont mesh and feels locked out.
Do this too much and you will end up with a bent shift fork and or chewed up synchros.
Fast shifting does not help you always win a race or accelerate faster especially if you are missing shifts.
#savethemanuals

[DarkPira7e]

The speed of the shift is not the issue. I can shift slowly and still be locked out. I'm not trying to shift between hundredths of a second. But I am to keep momentum without disrupting the cars balance during fast acceleration

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[x808drifter]

Originally Posted by celek

shift slower
the mesh point for the synchros is like 4000 RPM if your trans with the clutch pressed in is spinning freely at a 7000 RPM simulation on the main shaft with wont mesh and feels locked out.
Do this too much and you will end up with a bent shift fork and or chewed up synchros.
Fast shifting does not help you always win a race or accelerate faster especially if you are missing shifts.
#savethemanuals

So in other words short shit first to second.