Fastest Track Times Thread

[lutfy]

Road Atlanta.

2885lbs w driver
PTuning Race Headers, drop in air filter, rear muffler deleted with straight pipe, @steve99 Custom Tune
Motion Control Double Adjustable Coilovers with 550lbs/650lb springs. -3.2 camber front, -2.6 rear camber
ARP Front Splitter with GTC300 spoiler, Velox hood vents.
Hawk DTC60 front and rear on OEM rotors/calipers.
Hoosier R7 225/40/17 tires.

1:40.3 NA
http://timingscoring.drivenasa.com/N...ession%203.pdf Car no 99

[ROADRACER]

You just had to beat me by 1/10 of a second didn't you! Very nice lap! You seem to be making really good power. I have no aero and am probably a couple hundred pounds lighter and we are within 1MPH at the end of the back strait. That's with me running E-85 too.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by ROADRACER

You just had to beat me by 1/10 of a second didn't you! Very nice lap! You seem to be making really good power. I have no aero and am probably a couple hundred pounds lighter and we are within 1MPH at the end of the back strait. That's with me running E-85 too.

Thanks! Do you have video? My entry into 7 on that run was proper and with Hoosier I get a nice launch. With Toyo RR it obviously suffers. If you have data, that would be great!

David Murry was there and he pointed out that my wing needs to be lowered. This is the next mod. Costing me speed at the end of the straight.

Lutfy

[venturaII]

What are some inexpensive options for semi-accurate/consistent timing? I don't have a smartphone or any other sort of wireless device in the car or my pocket, and certainly don't need pro-level timing transponders/receivers. Am I relegated to stopwatch functionality on my wristwatch? Wondering how accurate that really is from inside the car...?

[ROADRACER]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Thanks! Do you have video? My entry into 7 on that run was proper and with Hoosier I get a nice launch. With Toyo RR it obviously suffers. If you have data, that would be great!

David Murry was there and he pointed out that my wing needs to be lowered. This is the next mod. Costing me speed at the end of the straight.

Lutfy

No video from that session. I have some data from my racecrono lap timer showing my minimum speed in t-7 was 51 MPH, and max at the end of the strait was 128 MPH. This was one of my best t7 speeds of the day. I was running NT01's. lap time was 1:40:4
I am very impressed with the power you must be making to push your almost full weight car to the same speeds as my lighter gutted track car. Your tuning and mods must be spot on.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Thanks! Do you have video? My entry into 7 on that run was proper and with Hoosier I get a nice launch. With Toyo RR it obviously suffers. If you have data, that would be great!

David Murry was there and he pointed out that my wing needs to be lowered. This is the next mod. Costing me speed at the end of the straight.

Lutfy

Lowering the wing will also result in less downforce in the rear by the way. If you think you would like the car to be more "tail happy" go for it, just dont think you can lower the drag without affecting generated downforce without modifying the wing's profile, angle of attack or endplates. By the way, if you arent already running the minimum angle of the wing (but I suspect you are), you might want to try that first and see how it feels. Also, lowering the wing but then adding more angle to it to generate the same amount of downforce will have the opposite effect, generating more drag than previously. Just some food for though.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by venturaII

What are some inexpensive options for semi-accurate/consistent timing? I don't have a smartphone or any other sort of wireless device in the car or my pocket, and certainly don't need pro-level timing transponders/receivers. Am I relegated to stopwatch functionality on my wristwatch? Wondering how accurate that really is from inside the car...?

How much are you willing to spend and what functionality do you want?

Aim solo is around $400 and includes data logging, but not obdII/CAN

The cheapest would probably be an old smart phone/ipod touch($100ish?), lap timer app(~$20), and GPS nugget(for resolution, ~$50). All in that could probably be done for ~$200

Even the simplest logging setups can help improve your times. Predictive lap timing is nice as it can tell you live if what you're doing is good or bad.

For more input I suggest you post in this thread as to not derail this one.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

Lowering the wing will also result in less downforce in the rear by the way. If you think you would like the car to be more "tail happy" go for it, just dont think you can lower the drag without affecting generated downforce without modifying the wing's profile, angle of attack or endplates. By the way, if you arent already running the minimum angle of the wing (but I suspect you are), you might want to try that first and see how it feels. Also, lowering the wing but then adding more angle to it to generate the same amount of downforce will have the opposite effect, generating more drag than previously. Just some food for though.

Thats been my thought and I have been pondering it for a while. No free lunch(es) I guess. Per David Murry (who is a pro), his suggestion was to go lower on wing and reduce the rear spring rate (I went from 550 to 650 to manage the balance). Prior to that, the car was pushy as hell. That said, I may just leave it as is as I bought the car in April and spent a good bit of time tuning the chassis. I must say, car feels dialed in!

Per your suggestion earlier, I went with the lowest angle of attack.

Decisions decisions.

Lutfy

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by ROADRACER

No video from that session. I have some data from my racecrono lap timer showing my minimum speed in t-7 was 51 MPH, and max at the end of the strait was 128 MPH. This was one of my best t7 speeds of the day. I was running NT01's. lap time was 1:40:4
I am very impressed with the power you must be making to push your almost full weight car to the same speeds as my lighter gutted track car. Your tuning and mods must be spot on.

WOW! I need to send in my data to Emmanuel Baako to assess. I am not hitting 128 but then I was on R7 225/40/17 Hoosiers which are shorter and gearing is perrrrrfect for some oomph. When running Toyo RR, I was down 1.8 secs (best time to best time variance) and no where near the top end when running R7 (combination of exit at 7 and also the slightly revised gearing).

Car is in the warehouse and I need to collect the data and send it for assessment. Per Emmanuel, the aero hurts speeds at Road Atlanta so am curious to see how his analysis pans out with my data overlay. I was able to gain big on T1 and coming down to T4 with aero.

I love this chassis.

Lutfy

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Vancouver Island motorsport Circuit
need some tips for going faster thx
everything stock
tire was using for drift school 2 month ago
that my last track day before got my 2017 Toyota 86
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13lZnjhTLsE&t=329s[/ame]

[Pat]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

Vancouver Island motorsport Circuit
need some tips for going faster thx
everything stock
tire was using for drift school 2 month ago
that my last track day before got my 2017 Toyota 86

Tip 1: Get rid of all extra junk in your car (mirror accoutrements, coffee cup, referee flags, keys, etc.)
I like your smoothness and light grip on the controls.

[Fish Eagle]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

Vancouver Island motorsport Circuit

If you're using a GoPro, most have a setting (think it's called spot focus) that will avoid overexposing everything outside the car.

And I agree with the previous post - get rid of anything loose in the car, especially in the console.

Getting faster - no substitute for seat time. Enjoy!!

[bem75]

Sebring
2:26.545
Brad McCall
2/13/2018
FI - Jackson C38 Supercharger, low boost pulley
AST 3-way coilovers, Hoosier A7 225/40R17 front 245/40R17 rear, PPE header, Motec M150 ecu, full race car setup, APR SCCA Spec wing, APR splitter, CSG Brembo brakes, G-Loc R16 pads, Radium FST-R
file:///C:/Users/brad.AMECO/Download...cial%20(3).pdf

[bem75]

Watkins Glen
2:08.112
Brad McCall
6/25/2017
FI - Jackson C38 Supercharger, low boost pulley
AST 3-way coilovers, Hoosier A7 245/40R17 front and rear, PPE header, Motec M150 ecu, full race car setup, APR SCCA Spec wing, APR splitter, CSG Brembo brakes, G-Loc R16 pads, Radium FST-R

https://dk1xgl0d43mu1.cloudfront.net...pdf?1498425805