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Old 08-19-2019, 10:44 AM   #15
JohnJuan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantedTaken View Post
So, replacing a stud is the same on front and rear?
No weird parking brake issues?
Just remove rotor and pop off the studs?

I didn't remove the parking brake shoe when I did mine.
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Old 08-19-2019, 01:17 PM   #16
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I didn't remove the parking brake shoe when I did mine.
I don't think you have to for the front. There's plenty of clearance.
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantedTaken View Post
So, replacing a stud is the same on front and rear?
No weird parking brake issues?
Just remove rotor and pop off the studs?
If you reread in the rear you have to rotate the hub around to one area where there is clearance to get the stud in/out. But you don't have to remove anything extra at least for stock length studs.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:11 PM   #18
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Thanks for clarifying that, finch
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Old 08-20-2019, 02:28 PM   #19
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Yeah, I took off one hub each front and rear, then noticed I didn't have to do the other one. Learn from my mistake.
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:42 PM   #20
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I confirm that the parking brake doesn't need to be removed with stock studs. Just remove the brake rotor. You also don't need a press, just screw a wheel on (before putting brake rotor back) to pull the stud in.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m86 View Post
I confirm that the parking brake doesn't need to be removed with stock studs. Just remove the brake rotor. You also don't need a press, just screw a wheel on (before putting brake rotor back) to pull the stud in.
Use washers. Not a wheel
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Old 08-20-2019, 06:25 PM   #22
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I used a stack of washers. and a sacrificial nut. and then hit it with a dugga ugga.

it is very shade tree. but i had a split front lug out and new one in within 20 min.

the goal is to tighten down the nut on the washers and then have the nut draw the lug through while it is rotating on the washers. i typically like to run a few fat ones with a huge hole and then one that barely clears the new wheel stud

this allows the washer to deform a little when the stud is tight without stripping threads or stretching the stud (hence sacrificial lug nut)
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:22 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
Use washers. Not a wheel
I didn't have enough washers so used a wheel. Nothing wrong with that if you torque up to the usual 90ft/lbs.
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:56 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by YamahaR86 View Post
I just bought the $20 bearing press tool from harbor freight.



Took off wheel, caliper, rotor. Then use the tool to push it out, rotate the hub to push the next one out. There is a small gap without having to remove anything extra on the rear.
I 2nd this. I also did this. The tool can be used both to pop the stud out and to press the new stud on nicely too. I only have experience doing the front, though.
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:56 AM   #25
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Thanks for this, I installed my Konis & Eibach suspension and noticed I hated the OEM lugs. Ordered new ones and broke a stud trying to get the OEM lug off. Going to the dealer to get a stud, then doing this.

The videos I found had me taking the whole assembly apart, glad to see I won't have to.
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