Engine Failure (Bearing Rod 2)

[vgi]

Originally Posted by dwx

The only Toyota thing on the car is the D4S system with noisy pumps and issues with injector seals leading to blown engines.

I'm a Subaru fanboy but I've owned 9 of them and never had a mechanical issue that wasn't self-inflicted.

the injectors seals melting are due engine overheating which seems to be due to piss poor suburu tuning of the engine (knocking). still, i've never seen another car that takes so long to cool down, 6 hours later after a drive i can still fry eggs on that engine. the D4S has been running fine on all pure toyota cars. we're yet to see how reliable is subaru DIT system will be, especially dealing with carbon built-up.

oh, and for the record, i'm not a fan of any car company, not a brand freak. actually don't give a flying f.. about any company. i pay attention to a specific car that's interesting from any company.

[Reaper]

The fa20DIT will die a horrible death I can almost guarantee it. My engine is cool to the touch and I'm at 450whp. Pm me I'll show you how to fix that.

[stugray]

Originally Posted by vgi

the injectors seals melting are due engine overheating which seems to be due to piss poor suburu tuning of the engine (knocking).

YOu got that a little messed up. The DI seal failure IS Due to knocking, but that causes overpressure fatigue which leads to blowby which makes the seals look burnt when replaced.
The failure is not due to overheating.

Originally Posted by vgi

still, i've never seen another car that takes so long to cool down, 6 hours later after a drive i can still fry eggs on that engine.

Then you have something seriously wrong with your car.
After an hour highway drive my BRZ is cool to the touch in an hour.
At the track it never got to the point of overheating, however I wasnt driving the car like I stole it (stock tires)
My OTHER 4 cyl 2.0L boxer engine is aircooled (runs much hotter) and I can change the oil in an hour after a hard run.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by stugray

YOu got that a little messed up. The DI seal failure IS Due to knocking, but that causes overpressure fatigue which leads to blowby which makes the seals look burnt when replaced.
The failure is not due to overheating.


Then you have something seriously wrong with your car.
After an hour highway drive my BRZ is cool to the touch in an hour.
At the track it never got to the point of overheating, however I wasnt driving the car like I stole it (stock tires)
My OTHER 4 cyl 2.0L boxer engine is aircooled (runs much hotter) and I can change the oil in an hour after a hard run.

+1

[Incursion]

LOL at the suggestion that I might be a troll.

13k miles
last oil change: 7500

I checked the oil shortly after the failure, and it was fine. Subaru said it's covered under warranty, and they're just waiting for parts. It's been two weeks.

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by Incursion

LOL at the suggestion that I might be a troll.

13k miles
last oil change: 7500

I checked the oil shortly after the failure, and it was fine. Subaru said it's covered under warranty, and they're just waiting for parts. It's been two weeks.

Any issues, odd events, or repairs done to the engine before the failure??

[Incursion]

No

[Hot Lava]

Originally Posted by Incursion

LOL at the suggestion that I might be a troll.

13k miles
last oil change: 7500

I checked the oil shortly after the failure, and it was fine. Subaru said it's covered under warranty, and they're just waiting for parts. It's been two weeks.

Good to hear that Subaru is standing behind it.

Originally Posted by BRZnut

Any issues, odd events, or repairs done to the engine before the failure??

Ya, this. Just out of curiosity and did they provide any explanation as to why it failed?

[Incursion]

Originally Posted by Hot Lava

Good to hear that Subaru is standing behind it.

Ya, this. Just out of curiosity and did they provide any explanation as to why it failed?

No, and no explanation.

[vgi]

Originally Posted by stugray

YOu got that a little messed up. The DI seal failure IS Due to knocking, but that causes overpressure fatigue which leads to blowby which makes the seals look burnt when replaced.
The failure is not due to overheating.


Then you have something seriously wrong with your car.
After an hour highway drive my BRZ is cool to the touch in an hour.
At the track it never got to the point of overheating, however I wasnt driving the car like I stole it (stock tires)
My OTHER 4 cyl 2.0L boxer engine is aircooled (runs much hotter) and I can change the oil in an hour after a hard run.

maybe you're right, i posted based on some older posts (which are speculations) that got stuck in my memory:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=53
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=82
i have never though seen anything official from toyota or subaru, so do you have another speculation or some solid official info?


the car has been taking a LONG time to cool from day 1, so if there is something wrong with it - it's from factory

[ZZT86]

I must also admit, when the 86 was new yeah engine bay temps seemed high compared to my previous bombproof Toyota, however after run-in this changed especially after changing the fuel that I use. Heck I started a 30 minute log of engine parameters on Friday arvo with air temp @ 34C took it fairly easy (my usual drive) warmest coolant temp was 92C & warmest oil temp was 102C ! Cooling system is rock solid, stays put b/w 89-90C usually, pop hood & bay temps are just fine !

PS: My 86 is still kicking goals despite my lack of confidence re it's long term reliability & my preference for Toyota engineering.

[strat61caster]

Awesome to hear that your being taken care of. Strange the engine up and died with no provocation, shame your dealership is uncommunicative about this, we will likely never know unless it becomes a common problem.

[vobla6.0]

Originally Posted by pushrod

Why's that?

The oil pressure there is the lowest out of all rod bearings.

Its the first one to take a shit.

[stonenewt]

Originally Posted by vobla6.0

The oil pressure there is the lowest out of all rod bearings.

Its the first one to take a shit.

Or maybe not. Look at what Element Tuning found