Decay's Ultramarine Trackrat

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by akahenry

Hey man! How did you like your Muffled Track Pipe with the rest of your exhaust setup? Was it unbearable or annoying whatsoever? Was there drone?! :O

The muffled track pipe isn't bad at all, actually a little quieter than the HKS was on my car with the same setup. Cold start still sounds like WW2.

The front pipe is a slightly sticky area though. I've had two revisions of the nameless FP/OP. The "can style" resonator is louder overall and makes a loud "marbles in a tin can" type noise between 3500 and 4500 rpm. It however didn't have much drone at all. The new "ball style" resonator is quieter, and sounds a lot better, but does have some drone at highway speeds. Doesn't bother me much as the road texture in oregon causes so much noise that I can't hear anything else while cruising (bushings, coilovers, and stiff tires certainly don't help this but the roads are horrendously loud here even in luxury cars )

[Decay107]

Some more pics from this weekend!





So shiny, look at that lens flare!

[NLSP]

Ultramarine, hella-functional, and driven hard. LOVE IT. Keep it up

[akahenry]

Thanks for the in depth replay, I really appreciate it. Hopefully when my Nameless Muffled Track Pipe is gets shipped and pair it up with my current exhaust set up (Tomei UEL Header with stock everything else), it won't be too obnoxious. Speaking of which, did you buy your Nameless Muffled Track Pipe brand new? If so, approximately how long did you wait until you received it from the day you ordered it?

Originally Posted by Decay107

The muffled track pipe isn't bad at all, actually a little quieter than the HKS was on my car with the same setup. Cold start still sounds like WW2.

The front pipe is a slightly sticky area though. I've had two revisions of the nameless FP/OP. The "can style" resonator is louder overall and makes a loud "marbles in a tin can" type noise between 3500 and 4500 rpm. It however didn't have much drone at all. The new "ball style" resonator is quieter, and sounds a lot better, but does have some drone at highway speeds. Doesn't bother me much as the road texture in oregon causes so much noise that I can't hear anything else while cruising (bushings, coilovers, and stiff tires certainly don't help this but the roads are horrendously loud here even in luxury cars )

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by akahenry

...Speaking of which, did you buy your Nameless Muffled Track Pipe brand new? If so, approximately how long did you wait until you received it from the day you ordered it?

I bought my track pipe new straight from Nameless and it took about a month. They do batch production and everything is made to order, so lead time will depend entirely on when the next round of Frs/Brz are being produced. I can say that I made them aware of my time constaints (had a track day scheduled at a facility with noise limits) and they were able able to get it to me on time.

[Decay107]

Update:

Installed Setrab 16 row oil cooler core and a replacement plastic undertray (off track event). Haven't had a chance to really test the extra 20% cooling capacity and won't until my next track day, steady state temps while driving around are unchanged.

Also bought a Defi oil pressure gauge that will be going on in the next few weeks.

Edit: Also found a seller with a stock of ATE superblue

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Decay107

Update:

Installed Setrab 16 row oil cooler core and a replacement plastic undertray (off track event). Haven't had a chance to really test the extra 20% cooling capacity and won't until my next track day, steady state temps while driving around are unchanged.

Also bought a Defi oil pressure gauge that will be going on in the next few weeks.

Edit: Also found a seller with a stock of ATE superblue

Man, those gauges look really nice. Quick! Me likey.

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Man, those gauges look really nice. Quick! Me likey.

Yep, getting tired of simply viewing other people's pressure data when I'm perfectly capable of gathering it myself. I just need to buy a few more parts to make it work. It will probably go on at the same time I install my new transmission mount... And change drive line fluids... And fix some issues I've been having with my motor mounts...

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Decay107

Yep, getting tired of simply viewing other people's pressure data when I'm perfectly capable of gathering it myself. I just need to buy a few more parts to make it work. It will probably go on at the same time I install my new transmission mount... And change drive line fluids... And fix some issues I've been having with my motor mounts...

Have you decided on a mount? What do you think of block8head's vent pod?

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Have you decided on a mount? What do you think of block8head's vent pod?

I plan to use the ATI vent pod, most discreet and OEM looking mount in my opinion. I actually already ordered one, but rallysport direct sent me the ATI passenger side 3 gauge mount by mistake. Probably would have just kept it, but I can't think of a reason I'd need 3 discreet gauges.

[Decay107]

Finally got some brake/clutch fluid to match my car's paint!



Now I don't have to be embarrassed about color mismatched fluids when I pop the hood at car shows

[Decay107]

Perrin Motor Mounts: Long Term Design Review

TL/DR: Just buy the freaking Cusco mounts

I decided to install motor mounts to take care of the drive-line slop I noticed during quick throttle input changes at the track. I had a bit of trouble initially deciding between the offerings from Perrin and Cusco, but it was the promise of more comfort and easier service that in the end led me to Perrin.


So after a year of use I can say they definitely make everything feel tighter and by function alone I fully recommend them. However, there is a serious design issue that makes service an absolute fucking nightmare.

Let's first look at the way the OEM mount attaches to the sub frame...



Pretty basic, stud to locate the mount properly, and flange nut to evenly distribute the clamping load on the sub frame.

Now the Perrin...


You can see that they use a screw and washer to attach the mount to the subframe. The thinking behind this (and the claim by Perrin) is that by removing the stud, engine removal is made easier because one no longer has to lift the engine as high to get it out. However I've found two issues with this design.

First off, by switching from a flange fastener to a hex screw and washer, all of the clamping load is forced on a very small area and causes the washers to deform, pulling themselves slightly into the sub-frame.



I've tried a few different sized washers (thickness and diameter) but have always managed to get some serious deformation happening, here is a washer I removed today




Ok, so what? Well, when those washers deform they block part of the bolt head and make it easier to strip, this is easily mitigated by paying close attention during install. The greater problem is that these washers also slightly bend the sheet metal of the subframe beneath, which brings me to issue #2.

By replacing the stud with a screw you make it harder to properly locate the engine and incredibly easy to cross thread the motor mount! The screw is barely small enough to freely pass though the subframe, and that's when everything is perfectly aligned and new. Once you bend the subframe a little bit, the screw threads on it, and you find yourself needing to grind away a little bit of metal to not cross-thread the mount itself.

Now what's the solution? Well, I'd love to use a flange screw

Or convert the mount to a stud/flange nut design
But since the thread pattern for these mounts is 7/16-18, good luck, I haven't been able to source ANYTHING in that size.

So my solution for the time being is to use a double thick grade 8 washer, which shows less deformation than my other attempts so far.



I believe the Cusco mounts solves the issues and in hindsight wish I'd have gone with them.

[sachu]

Originally Posted by Decay107

Finally got some brake/clutch fluid to match my car's paint!



Now I don't have to be embarrassed about color mismatched fluids when I pop the hood at car shows

Thought you only needed one quart for a brake fluid flush.

How much does the clutch take?!!

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by sachu

Thought you only needed one quart for a brake fluid flush.

How much does the clutch take?!!

Super blue is no longer legal in the US so it makes sense to buy in bulk.

And this amount should last me about 4-5 years of alternating colors every spring between gold and blue as well as mid season bleeds.