DIY Alignment

[FT_Monk]

Originally Posted by Stevo22

Care to explain?

The front track width is different from the rear track width of the car. When using strings set up for alignment, you are attempting to square the wheels to a reference point. The distance from the center of the front wheel to the string was set to be the same with the distance from the center of the rear wheel to the string; the strings are not parallel to the wheels and the track width differences are hidden.

[448hpsti]

Originally Posted by pche

That's incredible..... I'm glad I'm a mechanic and can use my Hunter rack anytime. If I wasn't I think I'd rather pay the 89.95 that we charge.....
Awesome write up though.

That's just it, so few shops have racks or techs that are able to produce consistent results its usually the tech...once you find a guy and a rack that work, I stick with my shop, even tho all i take my car there for is alignments, they have an older Hoffmann and its pretty spot on for me. It's a matter of find the right shop, I too don't trust most big box type chains either.

[KritiK]

wtf thats awesome work man and nice write up. you are crazy!!!! congrats!

[Lithium]

Great read, Is there anything about your setup you would change? I leaning towards getting all the same SPC components you did.

[Stevo22]

Originally Posted by Lithium

Great read, Is there anything about your setup you would change? I leaning towards getting all the same SPC components you did.

Are you asking about the alignment setup or his suspension set up? I have some suggestions about how to improve the alignment procedure.

[Lithium]

Originally Posted by Stevo22

Are you asking about the alignment setup or his suspension set up? I have some suggestions about how to improve the alignment procedure.

Sorry I was talking about the actual suspension components. I just installed tein s tech and would like to get the alignment closer to stock numbers.

[FReSh]

I think the track width discrepancy is coming from the string set-up... For the toe, you have to make sure the strings are absolutely square and parallel. The distance between the two strings should be measured at the front and the back to make sure that the strings are spaced the same distance apart at both ends of the car (that they are parallel). Then to make sure that they aren't crooked (that they are square), measure the front of each string to the wheel center on both sides of the car and make sure they match up. Then do the same in the rear (though, they will be different measurements between front and rear.) Double check your front/back centering each time you change the other, because changing one could throw the other off a hair. This seems like a rather accurate method.

For the race car (in my sig) my dad and I generally just mark each of the front tires (because the back tires are on a solid axle) with some chalk. Then pick a piece of tread on each side near where the mark is to hold the measuring tape to. Then just measure (with the mark toward the front of the car) between the spots we picked. Then we roll the car backwards or forwards (on a reasonably flat spot/garage) until the same marks are toward the back of the car and measure again (remember exactly the tread spot you measured from)... adjust as we feel necessary. This way is probably not nearly as accurate, but can still get within about half a degree in much less time. We have done this technique on street cars before, but it is a little difficult on cars that are low to the ground, since the tape measure has to be toward the bottom of tire in the front/rear (makes it a bit less accurate.)

[FRSFirestorm]

Originally Posted by Lithium

Great read, Is there anything about your setup you would change? I leaning towards getting all the same SPC components you did.

I'd get the newer version SPC rear lower control arms or another brand. They are holding up fine but the shop did break the little adjustment tab when I had the alignment done along with being somewhat difficult to actually adjust.

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by FRSFirestorm

One more thing I'll add to this thread. I've mentioned it in another.

I would have expected to see a difference in the equdistant with a parallel string.

From published data I've found:

Front track width 1519mm
Rear track width 1539mm

I expected to see a 10mm difference in equidistant between the front and rear when I strung it. It was not there and I can't explain it.

Maybe the front and rear scrub at different rates due to the lowering? Hard to imagine they would be different enough to account for 20mm but I've never seen it quantified. But the wheels will definitely displace laterally as height changes. Just a thought.

[AFRichZC6]

Have you considered using some thick phone books (if you can still find them) for your slip plates?

[Augora]

The shop manual has a torque spec for the lock nuts on the tie rods. How do you properly torque a nut like that when you can't get a socket on it?

[CoupedUpSubie]

Originally Posted by Augora

The shop manual has a torque spec for the lock nuts on the tie rods. How do you properly torque a nut like that when you can't get a socket on it?

With a crow foot. You should also calculate the actual torque as a crows foot adds some length to the torque wrench.

Crows foot:
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1...1&blockType=G1

Link to calculate new torque:
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

A crows foot can come in really useful at times, you will know when to grab it.

[Tor]

@FRSFirestorm, great writeup.

You said the majority of the 300$ was spent on the camber gauge.

Well here is a 50 cent alternative!
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5B_p5bhyWX0"]DIY WHEEL ALIGNMENT. diy camber gauge - YouTube[/ame]

[tcoffin014]

What were your actual measurements from center cap to string front and rear? I've tried a couple different methods to square my strings and think I finally got it, but want something to check against. I quickly learned the internet track width specs are not accurate