Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[riboyster]

Unless her butt dyno senses 60 more hp...

[Mach V Dan]

Originally Posted by Rifle

I'm surprised you don't have an exhaust, at the very least. I don't give your cats very long, you'll probably burn the one in the header in no time.

I have not seen this happen, on my car nor any of our customers.

Originally Posted by Rifle

Clutch begins to let out 3-350whp...

First off, it's not horsepower that will overwhelm the clutch, it's torque. From experience the stock clutch can give out before 200 lb-ft at the rear wheels.

The 210 is notorious for heat soak, especially since it sounds like most of your driving is stop/go traffic, per say.

Although this is an oft-repeated piece of conventional wisdom, just because the supercharger itself is hot does not mean the air going into the engine -- which is traveling at something like 150 mph -- is getting any hotter than usual. The biggest chunk of heat is from the compression of the air itself, regardless of whether the supercharger is hot or cold. And although this heat is not insignificant, we can adjust tuning appropriately to account for it. Also, it's spelled "per se".

Once it heat soaks, you're gonna have no power, which is why I'm curious you went non-intercooled. Hell, even with the intercooler version, I still get the notorious heat soak issue.

The intercooler system actually can get heat soaked, since the water circuit can take a while to cool back down. But the non-intercooled supercharger doesn't really have any heat soak issue that I have observed. We've done multiple back-to-back passes on the dyno, and not seen any power degradation. If anything, airflow on the dyno is worse than on-road.

--Dan
Mach V
FastWRX.com

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by Mach V Dan

I have not seen this happen, on my car nor any of our customers.


First off, it's not horsepower that will overwhelm the clutch, it's torque. From experience the stock clutch can give out before 200 lb-ft at the rear wheels.


Although this is an oft-repeated piece of conventional wisdom, just because the supercharger itself is hot does not mean the air going into the engine -- which is traveling at something like 150 mph -- is getting any hotter than usual. The biggest chunk of heat is from the compression of the air itself, regardless of whether the supercharger is hot or cold. And although this heat is not insignificant, we can adjust tuning appropriately to account for it. Also, it's spelled "per se".


The intercooler system actually can get heat soaked, since the water circuit can take a while to cool back down. But the non-intercooled supercharger doesn't really have any heat soak issue that I have observed. We've done multiple back-to-back passes on the dyno, and not seen any power degradation. If anything, airflow on the dyno is worse than on-road.

--Dan
Mach V
FastWRX.com

As far as the clutch concern, I have yet to see anyone at 200-250tq lose their clutch. Maybe that's just me, but I haven't heard anyone having issues until 300+whp. I know a guy who had his clutch go on a 5th gear pull on the dyno which peaked at 303whp. The run before was 297whp and it held strong. No idea his torque though.

I've also used to DD my FRS with 215tq on my stock clutch and had no issues, given every setup is a little different, but if the clutch was only rated for 200tq I would assume I would have heard it.. Given 95% of users who had the issue state it's like 300whp.

The heatsoak issue is defiently there, in the intercooled version for sure. I was just making assumptions based on what I know about the system, in regards to the non-intercooled. AIT is going to be the same, regardless, if you're driving. OP mentioned stop and go traffic is where he is at most of the time. And I can tell you myself, on a hot day in July, after driving for a bit, and you go to make that 5th gear pull which is normally quick and painless, you'll have to go to 4th to get the same power from the power loss. You're just putting excess stress on the blower that's hot. My last setup got hot after 4 runs in the dyno with @moto-mike and the system started adding some tip-in knock on the top end.

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by Mach V Dan

I have not seen this happen, on my car nor any of our customers.


First off, it's not horsepower that will overwhelm the clutch, it's torque. From experience the stock clutch can give out before 200 lb-ft at the rear wheels.


Although this is an oft-repeated piece of conventional wisdom, just because the supercharger itself is hot does not mean the air going into the engine -- which is traveling at something like 150 mph -- is getting any hotter than usual. The biggest chunk of heat is from the compression of the air itself, regardless of whether the supercharger is hot or cold. And although this heat is not insignificant, we can adjust tuning appropriately to account for it. Also, it's spelled "per se".


The intercooler system actually can get heat soaked, since the water circuit can take a while to cool back down. But the non-intercooled supercharger doesn't really have any heat soak issue that I have observed. We've done multiple back-to-back passes on the dyno, and not seen any power degradation. If anything, airflow on the dyno is worse than on-road.

--Dan
Mach V
FastWRX.com

The heatsoak is definitely there. Try turning your fans off and leaving the motor running between runs

[riboyster]

I'm pretty sure my NA build was just as fast 0-60 as with hot screws.

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by Rifle

Can someone do me a favor? I'm not exactly sure if I have an issue, but someone who can check their system for me will be able to tell in a minute.

I had the Intercooler pump fail on me. No big deal. Swapped the pump and I'm good. My issue now is, the side that pumps the fluid into the heat exchanger in front of the radiator feels like it's pressurized and pushing fluid. The return out of the heat exchanger feels dead and limp. I'm not even sure if it's pushing fluid. Can anyone turn their car on and check their heat exchanger lines and see if they feel movement. For me, the top one on the heat exchanger is, the bottom one isn't. The bottom one is also the one that feeds into the front of the charger.

Can anyone take a look at this for me?

[SlowShifter]

This is probably a stupid question, but what happens if you remove the valve just after the plastic air intake? That valve controls the flow of air when there are low RPMs to save fuel? Do you get an increased torque in lower RPM if you could somehow force that open or is it bad to consider such a thing?

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by SlowShifter

This is probably a stupid question, but what happens if you remove the valve just after the plastic air intake? That valve controls the flow of air when there are low RPMs to save fuel? Do you get an increased torque in lower RPM if you could somehow force that open or is it bad to consider such a thing?

what valve? On the throttle body..? you mean which controls the amount of air you let in relative to your pedal..?

[jwvand02]

Originally Posted by SlowShifter

This is probably a stupid question, but what happens if you remove the valve just after the plastic air intake? That valve controls the flow of air when there are low RPMs to save fuel? Do you get an increased torque in lower RPM if you could somehow force that open or is it bad to consider such a thing?

Pretty sure you're referring to the Throttle Body, and the answer is that the car will not run at all.

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by SlowShifter

This is probably a stupid question, but what happens if you remove the valve just after the plastic air intake? That valve controls the flow of air when there are low RPMs to save fuel? Do you get an increased torque in lower RPM if you could somehow force that open or is it bad to consider such a thing?

Hahaha. That's a first.

[Rifle]

Another stranger issue.. My intercooler/heat exchanger assembly.. won't take any fluid... pump spins.. reservoir is filled.. but the lines are empty.....

[nmastereal]

Originally Posted by Rifle

Another stranger issue.. My intercooler/heat exchanger assembly.. won't take any fluid... pump spins.. reservoir is filled.. but the lines are empty.....

Semi obvious, but did you take the caps off the intercooler input/output lines? If the pump is going then you have to bleed the air. You might have a kink in your hoses too.

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by nmastereal

Semi obvious, but did you take the caps off the intercooler input/output lines? If the pump is going then you have to bleed the air. You might have a kink in your hoses too.

Yeah. This is now my second heat exchanger. My FR-S was totaled. Since I've put the system back on my BRZ, I'd had nothing but intercooler issues..

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by Rifle

Another stranger issue.. My intercooler/heat exchanger assembly.. won't take any fluid... pump spins.. reservoir is filled.. but the lines are empty.....

Is there any way you can bypass the pump for now? If you could flood the system before getting the pump on, then flood the pump, it'll have something to push and that'll help get the rest of the air out