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Old 04-08-2015, 05:54 PM   #1
Superchan
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I am an audio newb, please learn me!

So, joking title aside, I am new to this whole audio thing. I have a stock FR-S with pretty much...well, no bass, as I'm sure some of you are familiar with. I'm looking to upgrade to a crisp, clean, punchy bass system to put in the trunk.

A friend of mine recommended 2 8" Arc Audio subwoofers with a 1000 amp. I can do all the wiring myself, and though I have no experience with fiberglass I am quite capable of wood working, and would build the box myself.

As soon as I figure out what constitutes as a good sub box....

Anyways

Nothing too shaky or distorted, I don't want to rattle the car or shake the cars around me. I want to be loud, and clear. I want to enjoy my music in a slightly obnoxious fashion so those around me may enjoy it as well.

Is this...good? Am I doing it wrong? Is there something else I could get that would fit my needs better? What Amp should I get? What does an Amp even do? Do I already have an Amp? Any specific wiring issues I'm going to come across? Is my car going to blow up?
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:00 PM   #2
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making your own enclosure will be an adventure. Some people like adventure. for those that don't might want to look at integrity concepts if you want enclosures for 2 8s.

1000W is going to be too much for those speakers I think.
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:03 PM   #3
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making your own enclosure will be an adventure. Some people like adventure. for those that don't might want to look at integrity concepts if you want enclosures for 2 8s.

1000W is going to be too much for those speakers I think.
I'm mostly looking at keeping costs down, as a custom enclosure from a local shop (without looking "hella flush", as he put it) was around $200.

And I know that I'm capable of making a good enclosure myself, I just need to know what goes in to a good closure.
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:31 PM   #4
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I'm mostly looking at keeping costs down, as a custom enclosure from a local shop (without looking "hella flush", as he put it) was around $200.

And I know that I'm capable of making a good enclosure myself, I just need to know what goes in to a good closure.
There's a lot more science that goes into quality sub enclosures than just a box with a round hole in it.

Air volume, port tuning (if any), back waves...

Mr. "hella flush" probably isn't going to great lengths to engineer the sound of a $200 enclosure, but he's likely done enough sub boxes to have learned a few of the caveats.... you'd hope.

Consider material cost, time, effort, etc.

If you want to do this as a learning exercise and are willing to accept that it's not going to turn out exactly the way you think it will on your first, maybe second, maybe third....attempt... then have at it. Life is about new experiences, right?

If your interest is in the end result and not so much the journey to get there, honestly, just pay the $200. It's a bargain for the amount of headaches you'll save yourself.
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:33 PM   #5
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There's a lot more science that goes into quality sub enclosures than just a box with a round hole in it.

Air volume, port tuning (if any), back waves...

Mr. "hella flush" probably isn't going to great lengths to engineer the sound of a $200 enclosure, but he's likely done enough sub boxes to have learned a few of the caveats.... you'd hope.

Consider material cost, time, effort, etc.

If you want to do this as a learning exercise and are willing to accept that it's not going to turn out exactly the way you think it will on your first, maybe second, maybe third....attempt... then have at it. Life is about new experiences, right?

If your interest is in the end result and not so much the journey to get there, honestly, just pay the $200. It's a bargain for the amount of headaches you'll save yourself.
I've been researching this non stop for the past several hours, and I think you're right. Something I've been looking at are the JL Audio CP208's.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1369313...v3.html?tp=112

What I'm thinking is mounting those to the rear seats, so you could fold them into the cabin for more bass-ey-ness if desired, or if you need all your trunk space for some reason.
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:49 PM   #6
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Is there a reason for 8s vs a 10? I'm running (and attempting to sell) a PWM110-JXWXv2. It does a very solid job on the cheap really, only a little big, but smaller than 2 8s
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:52 PM   #7
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A friend of mine recommended 2 8" Arc Audio subwoofers with a 1000 amp.
As has been mentioned by @Chimera, 1000W is too much for those speakers.

Of course, "1000W" is a very vague term. There's a lot more to consider in this area.

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As soon as I figure out what constitutes as a good sub box....
Depends entirely on what you want out of it.

Are you looking for a stealth or factory-looking clean install and not losing a ton of trunk space? You'll be utilizing the space in the rear corners of the trunk. You can't fit 2 8" subs in the spare tire well and still have the trunk floor. It's going to be quite a bit more difficult, even for a good woodworker, to fabricate something that fits well in the spaces in the rear corners of the trunk than it would for someone who knows how to use fiberglass.

If you don't care about losing your trunk space or making it a clean/stealth install, you can build a box that sits in the trunk. But you'll still have to compute air volumes, consider ports/no ports, etc. Or, you can buy a pre-fab sub box at a big box retail store for probably the same or less cost than what your materials might cost. Of course, they won't be specific for your install, but they'll work.

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Is there something else I could get that would fit my needs better?
Perhaps, but there are as many answers to that question as there are stars in the sky. Opinions are like assholes. Everyone has one, and they all stink.

You'd need to nail down specifically what your needs, desires, budget, and priorities are.

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What Amp should I get?
LOTS of options, see above point about figuring out needs first.

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What does an Amp even do?
Amplifies electrical current. Speakers have magnets in them, magnets respond to electricity. Send electricity near a magnet and it moves. When the speaker moves it displaces air. Displaced air creates sound waves.

If you're really interested in learning how amplifiers work, consult the Google.

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Do I already have an Amp?
Yes. Well, probably. I am not sure on the FR-S. On the BRZ the factory audio system has an amp. It's a piss weak amp, but it's an amp, technically.

In either case, even if you do have an amp, it's not adequate to power subwoofers, so it's moot.

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Any specific wiring issues I'm going to come across?
Lots, probably, depends on what you decide to end up doing. It's not rocket surgery, but if you don't have a basic understanding of what you're doing....

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Is my car going to blow up?
No, but it could catch fire. That's not a joke. Be sure to do some research before you embark on a wiring job.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:00 PM   #8
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Is there a reason for 8s vs a 10? I'm running (and attempting to sell) a PWM110-JXWXv2. It does a very solid job on the cheap really, only a little big, but smaller than 2 8s
There ya go...

I can attest that a single 10" can produce MORE than adequate bass in these cars. Mine is a different setup, but I see no reason why this wouldn't fit the bill.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:03 PM   #9
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Is there a reason for 8s vs a 10? I'm running (and attempting to sell) a PWM110-JXWXv2. It does a very solid job on the cheap really, only a little big, but smaller than 2 8s
From what I was told (Was told, I'm ignorant, grain of salt) 10's are capable of moving more air, thus creating more bass, however there's a higher chance of distortion or something. Completely dependent upon the quality of the speaker itself. I, personally, am not looking for rattle-my-door-hinges bass, but thump-my-chest-a-bit bass.

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As has been mentioned by @Chimera, 1000W is too much for those speakers.
Of course, "1000W" is a very vague term. There's a lot more to consider in this area.
I'm getting some recommendations on the 208's
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Depends entirely on what you want out of it.

Are you looking for a stealth or factory-looking clean install and not losing a ton of trunk space? You'll be utilizing the space in the rear corners of the trunk. You can't fit 2 8" subs in the spare tire well and still have the trunk floor. It's going to be quite a bit more difficult, even for a good woodworker, to fabricate something that fits well in the spaces in the rear corners of the trunk than it would for someone who knows how to use fiberglass.

If you don't care about losing your trunk space or making it a clean/stealth install, you can build a box that sits in the trunk. But you'll still have to compute air volumes, consider ports/no ports, etc. Or, you can buy a pre-fab sub box at a big box retail store for probably the same or less cost than what your materials might cost. Of course, they won't be specific for your install, but they'll work.
Not really caring too much about a clean install, but I think my "stick it to the rear seat thing" idea is kinda cool.
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Perhaps, but there are as many answers to that question as there are stars in the sky. Opinions are like assholes. Everyone has one, and they all stink.

You'd need to nail down specifically what your needs, desires, budget, and priorities are.
Budget is around $750, ish. The 208's + amp + controller would fit in that.
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LOTS of options, see above point about figuring out needs first.
Deciding factor now if the 208's are recommended, I know @Trashed675 had a 108 installed I think
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Amplifies electrical current. Speakers have magnets in them, magnets respond to electricity. Send electricity near a magnet and it moves. When the speaker moves it displaces air. Displaced air creates sound waves.

If you're really interested in learning how amplifiers work, consult the Google.
Coolio, I'm kind of a nerd.
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Yes. Well, probably. I am not sure on the FR-S. On the BRZ the factory audio system has an amp. It's a piss weak amp, but it's an amp, technically.

In either case, even if you do have an amp, it's not adequate to power subwoofers, so it's moot.
So definitely getting an amp.
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Lots, probably, depends on what you decide to end up doing. It's not rocket surgery, but if you don't have a basic understanding of what you're doing....
My friend is helping me install the wiring stuff, and he used to work at an audio shop. He told me to go with my own stuff originally rather than overpaying for someone to do a (probably) less than adequate job. Car stuff isn't huge in my area unless I want to drive a couple hours into missouri.
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No, but it could catch fire. That's not a joke. Be sure to do some research before you embark on a wiring job.
Fire extinguisher on hand, noted.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:31 PM   #10
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For your budget personally I'd go with the jl stealth box and the nvx amp combo. It's a slim line 10 tw3 setup with 300w. Maximizes available trunk space too and is secure when you want to spin the car around turns and such.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:32 PM   #11
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Incidently I want to upgrade to that setup myself
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:33 PM   #12
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And one more thought, the stock 13 hu has sub pre outs, which is pretty awesome imo.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:12 PM   #13
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And one more thought, the stock 13 hu has sub pre outs, which is pretty awesome imo.
The what Now?
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:25 PM   #14
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I am an audio newb, please learn me!

You should probably do lots sound deadening first. Cuz our car have a lot less sound deadening then a civic... Another thing is that because how small it is inside you don't need as much power to achieve the same effect u need on other cars.

& like keithr said make a custom unit that fit into spare wheel wall would be the best.
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