Abs and traction light activating on hard turn

[jslack]

Well group. It was definitely the toe issue. I was heading back from an event and some rough road or something really caused the toe issue to be a problem and shredded the rear tires good. Car is now headed to a performance shop and getting fixed the right way. This should take care of all the issues.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Why on Earth would you want less/zero camber in the rear on a RWD car though?

You do know that the rear has a much better camber curve than the front suspension on these cars, right? You want more front camber than rear for balanced handling, -3* rear is way too much unless you're needing like -4.5* up front.

-3*F/-2.2*R is a pretty solid starting point for track/auto x, if it's a pure street car then -1.5*F/-1*R is a better starting point.

You also know that too much rear camber hurts putting power down right?

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by maslin

Let me clarify. This sucks.

Totally agree.

Originally Posted by maslin

0* front camber, -3* rear camber is not a correct alignment. For any reason. Adding a bit of front negative camber with bolts and pulling the rear closer to zero not only looks better, but actually works.

I wouldn’t recommend -4*front, -3* rear camber to a car driven on the street. It just isn’t necessary. [...] Mine, degrees and minutes, not decimals. 1.66* front, 1.38* rear.

Also agree.
I guess I misinterpreted one of the earlier messages as if someone actually wanted to put the rear wheels pretty much vertical.

Originally Posted by jslack

I had my car aligned the next day. The one issue they had with the alignment is the toe for the rear. It’s at -1 degree on each side. I’ll aoon be getting adjustable toe arms.

Originally Posted by jslack

Well group. It was definitely the toe issue. I was heading back from an event and some rough road or something really caused the toe issue to be a problem and shredded the rear tires good. Car is now headed to a performance shop and getting fixed the right way. This should take care of all the issues.

Sorry this happened to you!
It's beyond my imagination why would someone doing alignment return you a car with -1º of toe in the rear if you have LCAs. If I were them I'd probably play with camber to get the toe in spec (so you don't shred your tires) and only once you get adjustable toe arms dial in the camber you want (since re-alignment is going to be needed anyways).

Originally Posted by wparsons

You do know that the rear has a much better camber curve than the front suspension on these cars, right?

Yup, thanks to the McPherson strut

Originally Posted by wparsons

-3* rear is way too much

Totally agree, but we weren't discussing -3º yet when I wrote that message.

Originally Posted by wparsons

You want more front camber than rear for balanced handling

Right, so you generally want to do it (and also fight understeer) by adding negative camber in the front.

Originally Posted by wparsons

-3*F/-2.2*R is a pretty solid starting point for track/auto x, if it's a pure street car then -1.5*F/-1*R is a better starting point.

If non-parallel wheels actually bother someone much, I'd consider using -2ºish on both axles, which should be possible with camber bolts in the front, assuming there's enough clearance between the wheel and the strut.
Shouldn't be a big issue for a daily driven car, and quite a bit cheaper if you don't have LCAs yet.

Originally Posted by wparsons

You also know that too much rear camber hurts putting power down right?

Not that we have enough power for this to actually matter much on straights in the -2.5º...-1º range

[maslin]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Also agree.
I guess I misinterpreted one of the earlier messages as if someone actually wanted to put the rear wheels pretty much vertical.

Horses for courses, or however that goes.

Zero or positive camber has it's place, Drift just isn't all that popular on this forum.









One thing everyone agrees on, toe settings really matter. For handling and tire wear especially.

[churchx]

That latest miata .. is it really drift one? Or does it have some very weird custom suspension? AFAIK most drift cars have mcpherson struts front to easier implement high angle (and often being custom retrofitted for cars that had as stock multilink/double wishbone suspension, eg. GT-Rs, no?), and also most drift cars have highest static negative camber from all the motorsports, to counter dynamic camber change when countersteering during drift, when due opposite wheel turn direction those dynamic camber changes from caster are of detrimental value change direction. If tracked car optimum camber was in -3 to -4, weren't drift car optimums of -4 to -7?

[wparsons]

Yeah, those drift FRS/BRZ's definitely have a lot of camber up front...